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How to Remove a Broken Bolt

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BogusSVO

10+ Year Contributor
5,891
318
Jul 1, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
How to remove a Broken Bolt

There are many different methods.

This is one of the more common methods using an EZ-Out


This method works best on bolts that broke due to being over tighten.
The EZ-out method has little success on cross threaded or rusted bolts.

The tools needed are few.
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Drill
Proper size drill bit
A good sharp center punch
Hammer
Crescent wrench
Proper size EZ-OUT

There is two different styles of EZ-out, A left handed spiral flute and a straight flute.

I will be using a spiral flute in this removal.
The spiral flute will screw down and get a firm "bite" on the inside of the broken bolt.
First with the hammer and center punch, knock a good divit as close as possible to the center of the bolt.
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This is done so the drill bit will not walk around when you start to drill.
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Now with the drill bit in the drill motor.
I am using a 1/8 inch drill bit, the broken bolt is a 8mm (5/16ths)
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Drill appox. 1/8th to 1/4th inch down the center of the bolt.
Drill as straight as possible.
Some times it will be necessary to drill all the way through the bolt.
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Blow all the metal chips out of the bolt hole.
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Now take the EZ-Out and tap in to the hole you just drilled.
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Now using the square on the back end of the EZ-out.
Gently apply pressure to the broken bolt, until you feel movement.
If you apply too much pressure, and snap the EZ-Out off in the hole, you will have more serious issues.
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Does drilling into the bolt and using the easy out make it less of a pain?

I never thought of that...But work smarter, not harder right...



In some cases yes it dose. thre are other methods to use also, like welding a nut to a broken stud/bolt to back it out.
 
In some cases yes it dose. there are other methods to use also, like welding a nut to a broken stud/bolt to back it out.

I don't have acess to a welder.:(, I know right.But I do have a drill and easy outs..
 
Easy-outs have a square back end, as do taps. So when I was on a job a few years back and we had to tap a ton of holes in stainless, I got sick of using the T-handle or crescent wrench. Picked up a set of metric and standard 12-point shallow sockets and found the one that fit. Pop that sucker on a ratchet or an impact, you'll be good to go

Nice write up, btw, to the OP
 
This is a good method I prefer tap sockets myself, and of course after welding nuts onto stud the first time its my preferred method in aluminum that is. Great info but stress the fact of getting a good on center drill hole.
 
Good right up, I usually try an ez out first if it's in a delicate spot, if not I weld and remove or just drill out bigger and retap
 
It might be dangerous if doing it for the first time, you can just make a new hole by mistake xD, I better took it to a friend nearby to do it for me :)
 
Nice. This is really informative. However, i like to go for a professional broken bolt removal. It saves time and ensures the quality work done. This is my personal view.

With all the data and knowledge that Bogus has dropped on us here in the DSM community, I would consider him to be a professional. :thumb:
 
EZ-out will get out a broken bolt, but it depends on how the bolt broke.

Bolts that are cross threaded, or rusted, an EZ out will not be a good choice.

But broken exhaust studs that snapped, or sheared off an EZ out works well.

But like anything else it takes practice.

These are about half the broken bolts I removed this week.

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I've used the welding a nut on the broken stud method on a broken off exhaust mani stud :mad:. You must have patience and several nuts to weld to the stud because chances are you won't be lucky enough to get it on the first try! Be careful to not hurt the surface that surrounds the stud as the high heat from the welder could harm something. In my case It didn't :thumb:

It took me 4 nuts and about 30-45 minutes for me to get one broken stud out with the help of a VERY talented welder here locally... Was def a pita but a lot cheaper than buying all the proper tools needed and a very good learning experience!!!
 
Just an FYI this process sucks when it's an exhaust mani bolt that's on the back side of an engine!!! Trying to make it work on my Jetta with out removing the head. normally this method works amazing. Also have to agree very nice write up!!!
 
THAT IS AWESOME!!!!!!! i feel a bit relieved now!!! That is gonna be my next repair real Sooon!!! Could that broken stud cause a boost leak??? Could that job be performed while head is still installed???
2 weeks ago I replaced my t25 with another t25, I put a new SS DOWNPIPE from Megan Racing and Thermal R&D catback on my GST spyder and when I finished rebuilding every thing (I didn't remove exhaust manifold the turbo died and stock exhaust was rotted) I noticed there was a nut missing so I got new stud tried to finger screw it in then my heart stopped I didn't touch the manifold and the old stud was still in there.

If this fails what are my options???
 
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No it couldn't cause a boost leak, just an exhaust leak. Yes, this repair can be done with the head left on!
 
Heating the bolt with Oxy/acetylene and then letting it cool quite often loosens it up. You have to be a little more careful when your working on aluminum but it works nice. Nothing worse than a broken easy out!
 
Make sure to use a nice drill bit too, don't lit it walk and accidentally damage something.
 
Some tips I've learned over the years:

1) The drilled hole must be deep enough for the EZ out to get a good grip. Not deep enough and the EZ out will just spin and strip the hole of the grooves it made. Often you end up drilling completely through a bolt so it can get enough grip.

2) The size drill bit is ABSOLUTELY crucial. The correct size is stamped on the EZ out. If it says use 9/64 then use 9/64, not 1/8 or 5/32 because you don't have 9/64 - go buy a 9/64!

3) The size of EZ out also matters. Genrally use the largest one you can. Too many times I ended up redrilling and starting over with a larger one (the too small ones just spin). Also the ones with a fine thread work better (like Sears.com).

4) Keep the EZ out absolutely in line with the hole. A slight tilt and you will break the EZ out every time! They are brittle. In fact, plan on breaking a couple if it's your first time - we all have. Practice on a practice broken bolt first if you can.

5) Use drill bits meant for metal (with 135 degree or more point angle tips) - not the common wood/metal combination high speed ones (often titanium coated found in hardware stores) which try to cut too fast for hard metals (point angle is 118) and get nowhere (often not even a dent).
 
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That is exactly what happened to me :cry: Now me (and the bolt) are stuck with a piece of hardened steel plugging the hole. Tried drilling, but it only eats up drill bits. Any suggestions? The bolt is for the fuel rail, the middle one.

Try using a hammer and small punch to break up the ease out. They're normally very brittle and will break up like quartz. If this doesn't work, you're stuck with buying a carbide drill bit. If you have to use one, try to get at least a 1/4" bit to keep from breaking it. Use oil and go slow with it, and it should drill it out
 
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