9 T GSX
15+ Year Contributor
- 187
- 30
- Jan 19, 2008
-
St.Pete,
Florida
I have been trying to figure this issue out for quite awhile now,although now it seems I'm at a point where I need to ask for some help as im pretty much out of ideas/options to try. Heres the things I've tried to correct this issue,just like most everyone else who's had this issue.
1) New Jacks trans, (2g trans in a 1g) if that matters seeing how everything internally has been changed.
2) New OEM Clutch master
3) Few months old 1G AISIN slave cylinder
4) New OEM TOB, Fulcrum ball, Clutch Fork
5) New Welded OEM Clutch pedal Assembly w/ Z-bar and Bronze bushing on Z-Bar end of pedal assembly
6) SS Clutch line from hard line to slave
7) New 6 Puck unsprung clutch disc
8) "modified" 2100 Pressure Plate that I had a local clutch shop put together for me,it is a few years old but had it check and it has a pressure rating of 2400
9) New OEM plastic bushings for the brake pedal assembly
10) All transmission bolts and dowels pins are new and in place and properly torqued to correct spec
11) Motul 300 gear fluid
12) Shifter has been rebuilt with all new bushings
13) New shifter bracket metal grommets
14) New Torque Solutions shifter cable end bushings
15) Everything in the car for shifting is out of a 92
16) Shifter selector shaft has been replaced from a 2g to a 1g setup. think it has a "K" on it would have to check
17) All drivetrain parts have been inspected/measured and are in spec
Believe thats it for parts I've replaced, as for the things i have adjusted/bleed they are.
1) Master and slave have been bled to a nauseating level, as i bled the 2 parts i tapped on the metal lines and the master and slave units themselves throughout the process to help the air come out a bit faster. Drove the car for a day then re bled again and actually got 2 big air bubbles out. I followed TEAM RIP method for the bleeding process.
2) Adjusted master cylinder per JACKS Transmission method. Performed drag test and car didn't move until after 7K rpm which i sent a video to Jacks and he said that was fine.
3) Went thru and adjusted the clutch pedal height per the factory manual so its now at 7" from floor to top of pedal pad etc.
How the system is working since I replaced the above,with the clutch pedal pushed to the floor the slave cylinder pushes the clutch fork all the way to the Passenger side of the bell housing very close, but is not touching.
Clutch fork is sitting slightly to the Right side of the window towards the slave, I have no leaks in any of the parts or system. The clutch starts to engage when the pedal is right around 2 to 3" off the floor which is what the manual calls for.
4) Moved the clutch fork boot cover and looked at the Throw out bearing and pressure plate with the pedal depressed and the fingers appeared to be pressed in enough to release the disc.
Onto the issue thus far,it seems no matter how much i adjust,bleed the system etc when shifting gears the shifts don't fall into place,seems there is some resistance like a synchro is blocking the shift slightly and i get a crunch feeling in the shifter but all gears always go in. Sometimes if i shift a bit slower than normal and let the RPM's come down a little and the planets and stars are aligned correctly they will go into gear smoothly. It seems 3rd gear is the major pain no matter what I do I get a grind/crunch noise.
Think thats it im sure you guys understand what is going on.
One question, If somehow after all this I'm not getting enough throw to release the clutch disc how am going to get enough without resorting to half a** ing it. The only way to get more throw is to turn the Master rod clockwise "out" but seeing how im only 1/2 turn or so away from blocking the bleed hole i don't see how I'm going to get the throw i need?
1) New Jacks trans, (2g trans in a 1g) if that matters seeing how everything internally has been changed.
2) New OEM Clutch master
3) Few months old 1G AISIN slave cylinder
4) New OEM TOB, Fulcrum ball, Clutch Fork
5) New Welded OEM Clutch pedal Assembly w/ Z-bar and Bronze bushing on Z-Bar end of pedal assembly
6) SS Clutch line from hard line to slave
7) New 6 Puck unsprung clutch disc
8) "modified" 2100 Pressure Plate that I had a local clutch shop put together for me,it is a few years old but had it check and it has a pressure rating of 2400
9) New OEM plastic bushings for the brake pedal assembly
10) All transmission bolts and dowels pins are new and in place and properly torqued to correct spec
11) Motul 300 gear fluid
12) Shifter has been rebuilt with all new bushings
13) New shifter bracket metal grommets
14) New Torque Solutions shifter cable end bushings
15) Everything in the car for shifting is out of a 92
16) Shifter selector shaft has been replaced from a 2g to a 1g setup. think it has a "K" on it would have to check
17) All drivetrain parts have been inspected/measured and are in spec
Believe thats it for parts I've replaced, as for the things i have adjusted/bleed they are.
1) Master and slave have been bled to a nauseating level, as i bled the 2 parts i tapped on the metal lines and the master and slave units themselves throughout the process to help the air come out a bit faster. Drove the car for a day then re bled again and actually got 2 big air bubbles out. I followed TEAM RIP method for the bleeding process.
2) Adjusted master cylinder per JACKS Transmission method. Performed drag test and car didn't move until after 7K rpm which i sent a video to Jacks and he said that was fine.
3) Went thru and adjusted the clutch pedal height per the factory manual so its now at 7" from floor to top of pedal pad etc.
How the system is working since I replaced the above,with the clutch pedal pushed to the floor the slave cylinder pushes the clutch fork all the way to the Passenger side of the bell housing very close, but is not touching.
Clutch fork is sitting slightly to the Right side of the window towards the slave, I have no leaks in any of the parts or system. The clutch starts to engage when the pedal is right around 2 to 3" off the floor which is what the manual calls for.
4) Moved the clutch fork boot cover and looked at the Throw out bearing and pressure plate with the pedal depressed and the fingers appeared to be pressed in enough to release the disc.
Onto the issue thus far,it seems no matter how much i adjust,bleed the system etc when shifting gears the shifts don't fall into place,seems there is some resistance like a synchro is blocking the shift slightly and i get a crunch feeling in the shifter but all gears always go in. Sometimes if i shift a bit slower than normal and let the RPM's come down a little and the planets and stars are aligned correctly they will go into gear smoothly. It seems 3rd gear is the major pain no matter what I do I get a grind/crunch noise.
Think thats it im sure you guys understand what is going on.
One question, If somehow after all this I'm not getting enough throw to release the clutch disc how am going to get enough without resorting to half a** ing it. The only way to get more throw is to turn the Master rod clockwise "out" but seeing how im only 1/2 turn or so away from blocking the bleed hole i don't see how I'm going to get the throw i need?
