Front Track Claw Brake System for 1G

[asd_gst]

Baer's most popular system. Track system 13inch diameter rotor and logo version PBR caliper combine to produce solid, reasonably priced and very serious performance. Its moderate price, exceptional modulation, performance, and race-proven durability make it an ideal street or track system whenever wheel clearance allows.

-Faster Thermal Recovery
-Increased Heat Absorption
-Increased Friction and Low Wear
-Crossdrilled, Slotted, and Zinc Washed Surfaces
-Limited Lifetime Warranty Against Warping
-Logo Version PBR Calipers

i was wondering if anyone has this brake kit for their 1g? and if so what size wheels will i need to have it?

Slowboy Racing :: DSM :: Drivetrain :: Brake Kits :: Baer :: Front Track Claw Brake System for 1G

 

[twicks69]

When using a 13" rotor assembly, it becomes a requirement to use an aftermarket 17" or larger rim to clear the caliper. The price isn't too bad, but keep in mind that the single piece rotor assembly will be heavy.

If you want a lighter setup that is also proven, I would reccomend Todd at TCE Performance Products. The prices are a little bit higher, but the quality is definitely there.

If you are just looking for a great performing street/strip/autocross brake setup, I would look at the 12.2"x.81" or the 13"x.81" brake setups as they will be lighter than the thicker rotor assemblies. The 12.2" rotor requires a 16" or larger aftermarket rim to clear the caliper, while the 13" rotor requires a 17" or larger aftermarket rim.

If you are intending on using this car as a Road Race, Time attack, etc. car, I would push towards the 13"x1.10" setup with either a 4-piston Forged SuperLite Caliper (FSL), or the 6-piston Narrow Billet SuperLite Caliper (BSL-6n); where braking is most important, and you are going in excess of 150mph regularly.

If applicable, use directionally vaned vented rotors; NOT to be confused with slotted and drilled rotors -- these rotors are pretty much a "show only" type of rotor that has absolutely no advantage over a standard rotor for stopping power or reliability.

Be sure to use stainless steel brake lines and good quality brake fluid such as Wilwood 570 or Motul 600 with these brakes, and flush the braking hydraulic system regularly -- at least once a year, or before each major track event where braking is heavy -- large road course.

Check out TCE Performance Products - Producing Winning Results since 1993 for all the information for your application.


If you are intending on doing street driving and drag racing only, I would reccomend the 12.2"x.81" -- it is more than enough with the proper brake pad choice (I am using Wilwood D-Pads with excellent braking capability of stopping my car from 150 to 0 with no problems for the last 6-years.

Brakes are an excellent investment to make, and it is worth seeing what replacement parts are going to cost you in the long run also. Replacement parts to consider are the cost of new rotors, hardware, pads, brake lines and replacement calipers.

TCE has taken care of me throughout the years with a caliper replacement in 2007, pad replacements in 2004, 2005 and 2007, and rotor and hardware replacements in 2005. Their prices and customer service are top notch and are easy to deal with.

I would reccomend talking to Todd at TCE and get a quote on a custom tailored brake setup based on the vehicle and application they will be used for before just purchasing an "off-the-shelf" brake kit from a supplier.

Good luck with your decisions!

 

[asian312]

Always curious with all these big brake upgrade threads, if they are actually needed. Or if people understand why you upgrade to larger brakes. Or maybe it's a case of bigger is better?

This is what I was taught:

1) Can you lock up the front wheels under hard braking?
If so, your issue is not with the brakes, but with tires. Tires do the stopping.

2) So you can't lock up the wheels, but running on an OE setup.
Try a different brake pad that operates in a higher temp range. It's cheaper all the way around with stock rotors costing ~$20 each.

3) Now if you're running, say race pads (R4-E, XP12, etc.) and still aren't able to lock the wheels or experiencing brake fade after a few hard laps (tracking/racing), then it may be time to look into a larger brake setup or cooling options.

Following that recipe, I started out tracking my car on Axis Metal Masters and 215/50/17 Falken ZE-512s. This pretty much represents a stock setup. Around the street it was great with good cold stopping power.

At the track after a few laps there was brake fade. Shortly after I changed pads to Porterfield R4-Es with some Motul in the lines per RREs advise. All my issues with brake fade disappeared, but I now had an issue with locking the fronts (or engaging ABS often). So off came the Falkens and on went the 255/40/17 Potenzas. This was a great balance early on as the tires and braking ability complimented one another. I wasn't able to lock the wheels (there was just too much rubber), but it was very predictable and allowed me to just stand on the brakes when I needed them.

Then the lap times started to fall and the brake fade returned. I looked into adding cooling (just not really feasible with the two-piston OEM setup) and also even changing pads again. Well the real issue is that the brakes were getting so hot that things were melting (even catching on fire ) YouTube - tws msc-eclipse brake fire

And so that brings me to where I am now with bigger brakes (Evo Brembos w/ Carbotech XP-12s) and sticker tires (R888 R-compounds). Not more brake fade, but I'm back to locking the wheels. Just means that I have to learn to modulate the brakes to get the most out of them. Pretty much at the limits on tires, but may step down a pad range to XP-10s.

If my car was still a street car I would love to stay with the stock setup with maybe some Hawk HPS or HP+ pads. I really can't see why anyone would want a bigger brake setup other than for looks or if you just had money you needed to throw at the car. Economics between the two are staggering. Pads are about the same for a high performance bad, but rotors are expensive ($40-50 difference each for the fronts). Also the larger setups are much heavier as twicks mentioned. If you're 1320 orientated, wouldn't you want lighter? Plus there's a ton of room to slow down after a drag run.

Anyways, just wanted to throw my 2 cents in there. Carry on.

 

[gixxerdrew]

Because some people want to be able to stop from 200mph without having to pull the chute?

 

[twicks69]

Because some people want to be able to stop from 200mph without having to pull the chute?

I need a brake system that I can depend on, especially if my parachute doesn't stop me in time, or fails at the track.

Asian312 - The Wilwood kit is around 8# lighter per corner over the stock rotor/pad/caliper setup (the 12.2"x0.81" two-piece directionally vaned vented rotor with a 4-piston Forged Superlite Caliper and pads). Reducing unsprung weight is key in any motorsport to increase the efficiency of your vehicle and the power that you are putting down to the ground.

 

[sherwinz28]

Really helpful information asian312...didn't know any of that. I've locked up the brakes before and always thought it was the braking system.

 

[asian312]

Because some people want to be able to stop from 200mph without having to pull the chute?

Aye, aye, and notes taken. But would you really apply the brakes at those speeds? Even if you're chute did not deploy, isn't there quite a bit of room to shutdown?

Maybe I need to add a disclaimer to exclude the extremists j/k

 

[twicks69]

Aye, aye, and notes taken. But would you really apply the brakes at those speeds? Even if you're chute did not deploy, isn't there quite a bit of room to shutdown?

Maybe I need to add a disclaimer to exclude the extremists j/k

Some tracks have quite a bit of room to work with after passing through the traps, such as Joliet Raceway (Route 66), or Norwalk -- the NHRA Pro Circuit tracks usually have up to a 1-mile closing lane. The track I race at has a 1/4 mile to stop and turn at the most.

It all depends on how fast you are going. Heck, I was stopping fairly good from 147mph on brakes only at my track before the turn, but it is close.

And maybe my braking habits are a little outside of the normal world. Oh well.

 

[gixxerdrew]

Aye, aye, and notes taken. But would you really apply the brakes at those speeds? Even if you're chute did not deploy, isn't there quite a bit of room to shutdown?

Maybe I need to add a disclaimer to exclude the extremists j/k

Not at all, at el mirage for example its a 1.3 mile course and you have about 1/2 mile of shutdown room and without a chute open its REAL short. I found this out when I had a chute failure. what happened was a crosswind came up right after I pulled the chute and yanked the whole car sideways at over 175mph essentially I had no tire motion as I was sideways it took me over half a mile to stop I was out into the sand dunes and praying I wouldnt end up going loop de loop. The thermal strain is even more terrible on a reduced traction, non-pavement surface. This means your applying 25% braking over a much longer period of time not just 100% braking for a shorter time. Heat wise its terrible. Even stopping from 150 out there I've burned brakes to a crisp. 120 degree ambient temperatures don't help either.

The Le Mans cars run really awesome brakes for a reason, because when your doing 180-200 on the straights you need to be able to stop from that into a hairpin and then 14 more corners right after, for 24 hours. No offense but what you are doing with the car is very different than the extremes that some people will want to build their cars for.