Broken Exhaust Stud/Screw Removal [Merged 8-8] bolt fastener threads

[RoasT BeeF]

I have two bolts that are broken off inside the head that bolt the exhaust manifold up. Any ideas for getting them out without messing up the threads? I was going to try drilling them out but I cant even get my drill in there. I am also going to need to take the power steering pump off to get to one of them. Anybody done any of this?

Tech Article:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-broken-exhaust-stud-removal.html#post1489888

 

[olmytsi]

Just get another used turbine housing.

 

[5150DSM]

Ghetto trick coming up:
If you have eneough depth from where the bolt sheared.(1cm or so) You can retap the hole and use a shorter, slightly wider bolt to hold it together. Pure ghetto but it works if you're really in a pinch.

 

[infernal]

I found this while surfing around trying to find a solution to a snapped off stud.

Thoght this might help.


*original source*
http://www.theherd.com/articles/manifoldbolt.html



I have an Impala SS (95) and had replaced the waterpump and wires at 50K. I also discovered that I was hit with the infamous "breaking bolt problem". Well, the best I could do with the dealer, or should I say GM (the dealer's discretion to pay for warranty work ends at 50K) was for GM to cover half the cost of my "broken bolt" problem. That would require me to pay $700, US. This was not an attractive option. So I chose a quick and easy fix, one that is much more successful than drilling and using an EZ out, and certainly cheaper and less complicated than buying headers.

I dismantled the driver's side manifold. In addition to the last bolt being broken, the next to last bolt snapped off with no effort at all, indicating it was hanging by a thread. I went to a local welder who happens to be an excellent fabricator, but is also a master at removing snapped-off bolts from heads, blocks etc (especially marine applications-you know how rusty they can get). He accomplished this with an arc welder and stainless steel welding rod. He welds onto the broken bolt in the head, building it out with stainless until it protrudes from the boss. Stainless steel will not tack to cast iron, and the intense heat from the weld allows the bolt to loosen. Next, he welds a small steel slug onto the stainless slag protruding from the boss, lets it cool, snaps on some Vise-grips and voila! out she comes. There wasn't one mark or scratch to the head and no damage to the thread. He charged me $50 ( I did all the disaassembly at his shop) and the bolts, manifold gasket, flange gasket and studs ran me $30. My own labor and $80 ain't bad. Its a lot cheaper than the other alternatives and I highly doubt that anyone will be able to drill and EZ out one of these things without making a total wreck of the head. Any good welder worth his salt can do this...he just has to use stainless rod or other metal that won't tack to cast iron. So save yourself some money if you've got the leak

 

[The_EE]

A bolt that holds on the clamps for my cams broke off on me during my 272 install. The torque wrench I was using somehow got 'adjusted' higher then it should be during the install of the cams which broke on the the bolts off in the head. I used my makita drill and a easy out set that I had. What I did was lay rags inside the head around the bolt hole. I then took duct tape, laid it side by side to form a sticky bed for any loose metal to fall on to. When drilling out the broken off bolt, I used some of those magnetic bolt grabbers that you use to reach inside the engine and put those onto the head so that any loose metal would first hit those and if it did make it by ( which it didnt ) it would hit the upside down tape. It worked without any metal hitting the tape.

 

[perley03]

My dad taught me that same thing when I was really young. All he uses is a nut, and welds the inside of the nut to the stud. The heat from the weld loosens the rust due to the expansion and contraction, and they come out no problem. I've done this from old cast Chevy heads to even my own Eclipse head, except i tig welded the Eclipse head instead of arc welded it.

 

[rich3389]

I broke a manifold stud putting my turbo on, the stud is on the top half of the manifold. Is it possible to fix this without removing the manifold?

 

[DSM4me44]

Not sure how bad it is, are you able to use pliars to remove the rest? Whats it look like?

 

[rich3389]

The rest of the stud is in the head, i cannot use pliers to get to it. The part that broke off looks like half threads, than it gets smooth, then you can see where it was sheared off. It broke when i was taking the nut off to. Is it possible to use easy outs without taking the manifold off, it is one of hte smaller studs on the top half of the manifold.

 

[DSM4me44]

Hmmm. Im not really sure. I had a stripped one before and was able to fix that without removing the manifold. I think you could try and easy out. Id try that before anything most extensive.

 

[Rippinstock]

Go to your local Hardware store, there if tell them what your trying to do, they'll point u in the direction of these drill bits. NOw what you do with these is, you drill into the stud with this bit, very carefully, then usually included in the kit are spikes to put in the hole you drilled. Then with vice grips turn out the stud. A knowledgable hardware store worker should know what ## talking about. I also broke a bolt in my head from the exhaust manifold. With care this will work. Look into getting that kit i forget whats its called i'll look into it and get back to you. Good luck

 

[Rippinstock]

Its called a stud extractor.

 

[rich3389]

On thursday ill try using easy outs, if that doesnt work i guess ill just leave it.

 

[oldman]

Never ever use easy out or extractors. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=257755

 

[blcknspo0ln]

If there is enough thread, double nut it out or PBblaster + pliers work well too.

 

[rich3389]

Its in the head, nothing to grab onto, maybe i will try to drill it out starting with a small bit and slowly drillin with a larger and larger bit until it breaks apart.

 

[IslandTSI]

It can be done but odds are no. Take the manifold off, order a set of studs and replace them all

 

[Rippinstock]

I would listen to Oldman he seems very wise in the ways of such things. i used th exactor kit VERY VERY carefully and i got two of mine out. Which ever way you decide may the force be with you.

 

[95tsiawd6blt]

i broke a bolt off into my block trying to tighten my oil pan. What do I do?? ... I barely tightened it, and snap.. the head of the bolt pops off, the rest in the block.
thanks

 

[schoffs4]

Use a reverse drill bit

 

[bling5tatus]

For one, it's a good idea to use the proper torque when installing parts, I suspect you probably torqued out that little piss ant bolt too much and it broke... like anything does when it's torqued further than it should be.

Get a left handed drill bit and that'll back the broken part out... also, those bolts shouldn't be too hard to find in a junk yard, just make sure you pay attention to the two smaller ones that are on the timing belt side of the oil pan.

 

[95tsiawd6blt]

ok so all i need is a reverse drill bit? so all i need to do is drill a reverse drill bit in normal direction?? what size bit should i use, and where can i pick one up? Yes, i must have over tightened it, the funny thing is that i barely touched it, and it snapped, it must have been over torqued to begin with.

 

[schoffs4]

You use a reverse drill bit in reverse direction that will usually remove the broken stud. that 6 bolt motor is at least 15 years old thats a good reason why it could of broke easily Assuming you have a 95 with a 6 bolt swap

 

[bling5tatus]

I would call around to some tool shops and ask... they should be able to help you out.

 

[95tsiawd6blt]

i have a 91 dsm now, I am going to pick up a left handed bit, but what size should i use for a oil pan bolt?

 

[BUCK]

REMEMBER that a few of those Oil Pan Fasteners are SLIGHTLY SHORTER than the others or you'll be even MORE miserable~! - & yes those little 10MM's don;t take much at ALL to wring off - Oil Pan's like to be snugged up EVENLY so skip around & go thru them several times!! - You need a SMALL BEAM type Torque Wrench for that application - (AND the Rocker Cover) .