Another one bites the dust...

[Kapok6]

Technically this is DSM related since it involves my DSM, so I wasn't sure if there was a more appropriate section.

2006 C6 Vette hit my talon a week ago from this past saturday...

...on the freeway, made me do a 360. Smoke everywhere from my tires. 2nd scariest experience of my life. I was in far right lane, he was in far left lane, truck in the middle. I passed the truck, and as I passed the truck, he (vette) shot across two lanes and into mine as I was passing the truck and nailed my talon in the rear corner panel right in front of my rear driver's side tire with his passenger's side front fender/bumper/tire, sending me into a rather traumatizing 360. Said he was trying to get over to get to the upcoming exit and didn't know I was over there. Good times.

Insurance company has deemed it a total loss, so now the battle begins with them on the value.

Sorry the vid is shaky, I didn't want him to know I was filming. Pause at the :14 mark to see the damage to the vette.

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This is my 1ga AWD to have been totaled due to someone else's lack of paying attention while driving.

 

[Cdc1221]

Damn that sucks... another clean 1ga doomed to the junkyard

 

[n0de]

4 things...

1. Go to the hospital to get checked out, if you find something odd that could have been caused from the accident, tell his insurance company about it for reimbursement.

2. Buy the car back from the insurance company, decide if you're going to part it out, or fix it. If parting it out, keep the engine (if you want) and buy a nice 2g shell with the insurance money (Just sayin). This also might help your situation when fighting for how much they will pay out. If they claim the values are lower then you can do something like this. 90-92 is considered classic so they would have to use the NADA guide and cannot use KBB, but they can also look at ads within your surrounding area to determine the value of the car, this will probably be difficult for them unless they can find some 1g's within a few hundred miles of you that run and drive with similar mileage.

3. Kick yourself in the nuts for not getting into this accident with a > 92 Stealth TT or 3000gt vr4... Those cars just went classic on NADA, there have already been reports of people getting into accidents with these things and getting a $15k insurance payout, you can buy one for under $4k.

4. He hit you in the rear driver side fender??? That just means the vett was behind you where it belongs

 

[99ECLIPSEGSXDSM]

Man this sucks. It was a pretty clean looking car! Where's the video?

 

[Kapok6]

4 things...

1. Go to the hospital to get checked out, if you find something odd that could have been caused from the accident, tell his insurance company about it for reimbursement.

2. Buy the car back from the insurance company, decide if you're going to part it out, or fix it. If parting it out, keep the engine (if you want) and buy a nice 2g shell with the insurance money (Just sayin). This also might help your situation when fighting for how much they will pay out. If they claim the values are lower then you can do something like this. 90-92 is considered classic so they would have to use the NADA guide and cannot use KBB, but they can also look at ads within your surrounding area to determine the value of the car, this will probably be difficult for them unless they can find some 1g's within a few hundred miles of you that run and drive with similar mileage.

3. Kick yourself in the nuts for not getting into this accident with a > 92 Stealth TT or 3000gt vr4... Those cars just went classic on NADA, there have already been reports of people getting into accidents with these things and getting a $15k insurance payout, you can buy one for under $4k.

4. He hit you in the rear driver side fender??? That just means the vett was behind you where it belongs

This happened 3 years ago to the 1Ga as my avatar. This isn't my first rodeo...unfortunately.

You should look up NADA on a 91 TSi AWD talon Unfortunately insurance companies don't use NADA. They use "comparable's" in your geographic area. If they can't be found in your area (which they could not for this one), then they do a national search. The problem with that is, the comparables they use aren't really (at least in my case) truly comparable to my car. What the ins co came back with yesterday as the value on the car was actually a lot higher than I thought they wouldn't but still not high enough for me to agree. Like I said, I have done all this before. On the last one they tried giving me $2700. I fought them for 6 weeks and eventually they relented and gave me $4500 with a $200 buy back.

We will see where this one goes...

 

[pitbull419]

Click on last photo it redirects to video.
Deff. try and buy it back. Sorry man that sucks.

 

[Kapok6]

Man this sucks. It was a pretty clean looking car! Where's the video?

Click on the last "pic" with the corvette. It should take you to the vid.

And yes, he had paper tags. Only had it 10 days.

 

[n0de]

This happened 3 years ago to the 1Ga as my avatar. This isn't my first rodeo...unfortunately.

You should look up NADA on a 91 TSi AWD talon Unfortunately insurance companies don't use NADA. They use "comparable's" in your geographic area. If they can't be found in your area (which they could not for this one), then they do a national search. The problem with that is, the comparables they use aren't really (at least in my case) truly comparable to my car. What the ins co came back with yesterday as the value on the car was actually a lot higher than I thought they wouldn't but still not high enough for me to agree. Like I said, I have done all this before. On the last one they tried giving me $2700. I fought them for 6 weeks and eventually they relented and gave me $4500 with a $200 buy back.

We will see where this one goes...

Well it sounds like you know what you're doing. Best of luck man, keep us updated, this should be archived so that other members that have this unfortunate situation can get an idea as to what they actually should get.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

I would buy it back. That can be fixed.

 

[Kapok6]

I would buy it back. That can be fixed.

Bad idea in a situation like this. Here is why.

I am going to throw hypothetical #'s out here for this example.

Lets say this car is deemed a total loss by the insurance company.

You end up getting $4500 with a buy back of $400. So you get $4100 and keep the car.

The cost to fix the damage is $3700. Now you are $400 ahead still. Since it was deemed a total loss, you now have to get a salvage title. In the state of TX, a vehicle with a salvage title that is going to be put back on the road has to go through 3 separate inspections. Each inspection costing several hundred dollars. So let say all those inspections cost you $600. (I believe it is actually more, but lets leave it at $600). Now you are $200 in the hole, have a car that will never be exactly right, like it was before the accident, and your car is worth half of what it was before because of the salvage title.

Lets go with the other scenario. And this time I will use actual #'s from the last DSM that was totaled from 3 years ago.

Bought super clean, stock '90 TSi AWD 5spd for $2800.

Put a bunch of work into it; suspension, exhaust, turbo, injectors, FMIC, etc.

Car get t-boned and totaled.

Ins co wants to give me $2700 and then a $200 buy back. I say no. That's not good enough, and here is a folder full of documentation explaining why. Everything from an independent appraisal, to a closed ebay auction for a DSM nearly identical (sold for $4500), and CL ad for another one very similar for $3700.

I fight them for 3 weeks, and they don't budge. So I hire a public adjuster for $250. This guy works as an insurance adjuster, but helps people in my situation on the side so long as there is no conflict of interest.

He takes over the fight with the Ins Co as he obviously knows the ins and outs of the system. He fights them for another 3 weeks.

I end up getting offered $4500 with $200 buy back. So I get $4300 and I keep the car. I pay the adjuster $250, so I am down to $4050 in cash, and I keep the car, over the original $2500 and I keep the car. So I net another $1500 over the original, bogus offer.

So now I have this dsm where 90% of the parts are reusable/sell-able. I strip the car, and have scrapper take the shell away. I then buy a less nice, but still relatively nice stock, running, complete 91 auto AWD for $1800. I still have $2250 left over, and I transfer all my parts from the old car to this one. Now I have two running motors, and a plethora of extra parts that I can save in case I need them in the future, or sell.

Sorry for the long story, but I hope it makes sense. I am not saying every situation would work out like this, but it can pay to research, be reasonable, and patient.

 

[n0de]

Bad idea in a situation like this. Here is why.

I am going to throw hypothetical #'s out here for this example.

Lets say this car is deemed a total loss by the insurance company.

You end up getting $4500 with a buy back of $400. So you get $4100 and keep the car.

The cost to fix the damage is $3700. Now you are $400 ahead still. Since it was deemed a total loss, you now have to get a salvage title. In the state of TX, a vehicle with a salvage title that is going to be put back on the road has to go through 3 separate inspections. Each inspection costing several hundred dollars. So let say all those inspections cost you $600. (I believe it is actually more, but lets leave it at $600). Now you are $200 in the hole, have a car that will never be exactly right, like it was before the accident, and your car is worth half of what it was before because of the salvage title.

Lets go with the other scenario. And this time I will use actual #'s from the last DSM that was totaled from 3 years ago.

Bought super clean, stock '90 TSi AWD 5spd for $2800.

Put a bunch of work into it; suspension, exhaust, turbo, injectors, FMIC, etc.

Car get t-boned and totaled.

Ins co wants to give me $2700 and then a $200 buy back. I say no. That's not good enough, and here is a folder full of documentation explaining why. Everything from an independent appraisal, to a closed ebay auction for a DSM nearly identical (sold for $4500), and CL ad for another one very similar for $3700.

I fight them for 3 weeks, and they don't budge. So I hire a public adjuster for $250. This guy works as an insurance adjuster, but helps people in my situation on the side so long as there is no conflict of interest.

He takes over the fight with the Ins Co as he obviously knows the ins and outs of the system. He fights them for another 3 weeks.

I end up getting offered $4500 with $200 buy back. So I get $4300 and I keep the car. I pay the adjuster $250, so I am down to $4050 in cash, and I keep the car, over the original $2500 and I keep the car. So I net another $1500 over the original, bogus offer.

So now I have this dsm where 90% of the parts are reusable/sell-able. I strip the car, and have scrapper take the shell away. I then buy a less nice, but still relatively nice stock, running, complete 91 auto AWD for $1800. I still have $2250 left over, and I transfer all my parts from the old car to this one. Now I have two running motors, and a plethora of extra parts that I can save in case I need them in the future, or sell.

Sorry for the long story, but I hope it makes sense. I am not saying every situation would work out like this, but it can pay to research, be reasonable, and patient.

Or... just buy your car back for $200 or whatever, use $2k to get a decent 2g or 1g shell and drop your motor into it from the wrecked car. Easy like Sunday morning.

 

[Kapok6]

Or... just buy your car back for $200 or whatever, use $2k to get a decent 2g or 1g shell and drop your motor into it from the wrecked car. Easy like Sunday morning.

That's another option. Although if you are paying $2k for a shell, you are getting ripped off. Still better than trying to fix a totaled car.

 

[n0de]

That's another option. Although if you are paying $2k for a shell, you are getting ripped off. Still better than trying to fix a totaled car.

$2k for a shell is a bit high unless you're getting a lot more than just the shell. But yes, still better than trying to fix a totaled car as you put it.

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

Left lanes are for passing not right ones. Sorry about your loss tho. Buy it back and weld in a new panel.

 

[Kapok6]

Left lanes are for passing not right ones. Sorry about your loss tho. Buy it back and weld in a new panel.

Legal to pass in TX in right lane. Truck in middle was going slow. What I did was legal, what the vette did was illegal, (crossing multiple lanes without establishing each lane one at a time.)

 

[ErikTande]

Bad idea in a situation like this. Here is why.

I am going to throw hypothetical #'s out here for this example.

Lets say this car is deemed a total loss by the insurance company.

You end up getting $4500 with a buy back of $400. So you get $4100 and keep the car.

The cost to fix the damage is $3700. Now you are $400 ahead still. Since it was deemed a total loss, you now have to get a salvage title. In the state of TX, a vehicle with a salvage title that is going to be put back on the road has to go through 3 separate inspections. Each inspection costing several hundred dollars. So let say all those inspections cost you $600. (I believe it is actually more, but lets leave it at $600). Now you are $200 in the hole, have a car that will never be exactly right, like it was before the accident, and your car is worth half of what it was before because of the salvage title.

Lets go with the other scenario. And this time I will use actual #'s from the last DSM that was totaled from 3 years ago.

Bought super clean, stock '90 TSi AWD 5spd for $2800.

Put a bunch of work into it; suspension, exhaust, turbo, injectors, FMIC, etc.

Car get t-boned and totaled.

Ins co wants to give me $2700 and then a $200 buy back. I say no. That's not good enough, and here is a folder full of documentation explaining why. Everything from an independent appraisal, to a closed ebay auction for a DSM nearly identical (sold for $4500), and CL ad for another one very similar for $3700.

I fight them for 3 weeks, and they don't budge. So I hire a public adjuster for $250. This guy works as an insurance adjuster, but helps people in my situation on the side so long as there is no conflict of interest.

He takes over the fight with the Ins Co as he obviously knows the ins and outs of the system. He fights them for another 3 weeks.

I end up getting offered $4500 with $200 buy back. So I get $4300 and I keep the car. I pay the adjuster $250, so I am down to $4050 in cash, and I keep the car, over the original $2500 and I keep the car. So I net another $1500 over the original, bogus offer.

So now I have this dsm where 90% of the parts are reusable/sell-able. I strip the car, and have scrapper take the shell away. I then buy a less nice, but still relatively nice stock, running, complete 91 auto AWD for $1800. I still have $2250 left over, and I transfer all my parts from the old car to this one. Now I have two running motors, and a plethora of extra parts that I can save in case I need them in the future, or sell.

Sorry for the long story, but I hope it makes sense. I am not saying every situation would work out like this, but it can pay to research, be reasonable, and patient.

This is good info, thanks.

 

[isantop]

...(crossing multiple lanes without establishing each lane one at a time.)

Not to mention colliding with another vehicle!

Sorry about the loss man! That really bites.

 

[Kapok6]

Initial value/offer given to me by the ins co was $3700. I disagreed with their evaluation, and finally came to an agreement on the value of the vehicle on Friday. $7786.38 with a buy back for $450. So I keep the car and they have a check waiting for me to pick up at their local office for $7336.38.

Took 3 weeks of negotiations and work on my side but not bad for an extra $4k.

 

[talontd92tsi]

Initial value/offer given to me by the ins co was $3700. I disagreed with their evaluation, and finally came to an agreement on the value of the vehicle on Friday. $7786.38 with a buy back for $450. So I keep the car and they have a check waiting for me to pick up at their local office for $7336.38.

Took 3 weeks of negotiations and work on my side but not bad for an extra $4k.

This post officially needs a like button.

Get yourself another shell/roller and get to swapping!

 

[n0de]

Initial value/offer given to me by the ins co was $3700. I disagreed with their evaluation, and finally came to an agreement on the value of the vehicle on Friday. $7786.38 with a buy back for $450. So I keep the car and they have a check waiting for me to pick up at their local office for $7336.38.

Took 3 weeks of negotiations and work on my side but not bad for an extra $4k.

Holy Fawk... Now that's negotiation right there. Good job dude.

Now like the guy above me said, get your check, buy a roller/new dsm and get back to it!

 

[Kapok6]

This post officially needs a like button.

Get yourself another shell/roller and get to swapping!

Holy Fawk... Now that's negotiation right there. Good job dude.

Now like the guy above me said, get your check, buy a roller/new dsm and get back to it!

DSM is in my genes. I already have an arrangement for my next one.

 

[Kapok6]

Finally got my OH title transferred to TX title and received the new TX title yesterday. Went to pick up my check about 15min ago. Case closed.

 

[Cdc1221]

Damn, took you that long? I'm already getting impatient

 

[Kapok6]

Damn, took you that long? I'm already getting impatient

TX whole system on handling title transfers/new titles is dumb, much like everything else here.

In a lot of states, if not most, you can go to a local title agency, the seller signs off the title, it's notarized, and you as the buyer fill out your info, and the agency prints you off a new title in your name, right then and there. Basically, title transfers/new titles can be handled/printed locally.

In the awesome state of TX, everything comes out of the capital, Austin. So in this situation, since it was and OH titled car, the "easiest" way for me to handle the situation with the Ins Co was to get it transferred to a TX title. Well, when I went to the local DMV, they informed me that they do all the paperwork and such in their system there, and they take my OH title, but it then takes 2-4wks for a new title to be sent to me. It was to go from the local DMV, to the county tax accessor's office, then down to Austin where they print the new title and mail it to me.

So what takes 15min in most states takes 3wks here.

An old boss of mine from when I lived up north made a statement once that I have yet to see proven wrong...the typical mentality in the south is, "If it ain't on fire, it can wait 'til tomorrow."

Or in this case, can wait 3wks ha ha.

 

[Cdc1221]

Oh no, its the same here. had my title a week after the transfer, not three, but still comes from atl. Sad part is, I've literally had the car in my name 3 weeks, just had actually started driving it for the first time after 3 months of working on it and over 3k dumped into it. Only to drive it for the 6th time and get hit