I posted this on DSM Talk on Saturday after I built these but forgot to post this on here (don't come on to Tuners very much)
Sourcing through the GVR4 forums I found this old thread relating to building rear upper camber control arms (basically the Stealth arms) using AFCO parts.
GalantVR-4.org: The AFCO route, help would be nice.
The rear Lower ball joint is the same as the rear upper ball joint. So did some measuring and came up with these parts:
When measuring the stock rear arms I figured I'd need a 17 inch swage tube but then was worried that there was not going to be enough thread into the tube and went the next size up AFCO's 18 inch wide swage tube.
Now that I've assembled them I think the best route to go would be the 17 inch swage tubing as I have the tie rod and the spherical end threaded all the way into the tube and I think I'm about an 1/8th to a 1/4 inch longer than the stock lower C/Arm. So a 17 inch tube would probably be best.
The Swage tubing from AFCO has one side Right hand and one side Left hand threads so that you can adjust the arm once its on the car.
Here is my parts list. AFCO part numbers: (prices based off summit racing)
30211 tie rod end LH (x2) $17.88ea
10141 jam nut 3/4" LH (x2) $0.95ea
20023k rod end/bushing kit 3/4" lower (x2) $23.88ea
19517 17 inch swage tubing (x2) $ 13.88ea
Summit and Jegs both carry these parts. However when I went to order Summit was quoting a 3 week wait for the parts and Jegs said it would be 4 days. I bought them through Jegs.
I had ordered the Jam nuts for the RH threaded Rod ends as well, The Rod end kit comes with the jam nuts. Only the LH threaded jam nut is required as the Tie rod end does not come with one.
The rod end kits come with spacers for through bolt mounting, The spacers as they are from AFCO are too wide. You need to cut them down.
The ONLY issue with doing these arms is that there is no mounting point for the rear sway bar. I have seen guys make similar arms for the rear and weld mounting points for the sway bar link. However what I'm planning on doing is welding a mounting point onto the rear trailing arm and making a sway bar attachment from the trailing arm instead. This way there is no excess stress on these lower arms in terms of a twisting force on them (they are just threaded in and locked with Jam nuts I could see them wanting to break loose) and if for whatever reason I want to adjust the rear lower arms to correct for a slight alignment issue with no sway bar mount on them I can unlock the jam nuts and give them a little turn or so -where as if I weld a mounting point to them I won't be able to do this.
Hope this helps out. I wish I had found that thread way back when as I could have built the Upper Camber arms with the same parts for much cheaper than the Ingals arms I have (and still cheaper than the Stealth arms)
(EDITED in bold for those who seem to miss this, Do people not read either the link about how to build afco upper arms from the Galant forum link I posted above or even this key info? Not trying to be rude but the amount of questions regarding upper arms is absurd when I took the time to give you the info in the thread)
For those wanting to build UPPER arms substitute the 17 inch swage tube for a 14 inch tube (19514) the rest of the parts are the same.
I will post pics when I get my sway bar mount fab'd up and connected.
Also I just weighed the arms this a.m. AFCO 3.0lbs, Stock 4.5lbs.
Sourcing through the GVR4 forums I found this old thread relating to building rear upper camber control arms (basically the Stealth arms) using AFCO parts.
GalantVR-4.org: The AFCO route, help would be nice.
The rear Lower ball joint is the same as the rear upper ball joint. So did some measuring and came up with these parts:
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When measuring the stock rear arms I figured I'd need a 17 inch swage tube but then was worried that there was not going to be enough thread into the tube and went the next size up AFCO's 18 inch wide swage tube.
Now that I've assembled them I think the best route to go would be the 17 inch swage tubing as I have the tie rod and the spherical end threaded all the way into the tube and I think I'm about an 1/8th to a 1/4 inch longer than the stock lower C/Arm. So a 17 inch tube would probably be best.
The Swage tubing from AFCO has one side Right hand and one side Left hand threads so that you can adjust the arm once its on the car.
Here is my parts list. AFCO part numbers: (prices based off summit racing)
30211 tie rod end LH (x2) $17.88ea
10141 jam nut 3/4" LH (x2) $0.95ea
20023k rod end/bushing kit 3/4" lower (x2) $23.88ea
19517 17 inch swage tubing (x2) $ 13.88ea
Summit and Jegs both carry these parts. However when I went to order Summit was quoting a 3 week wait for the parts and Jegs said it would be 4 days. I bought them through Jegs.
I had ordered the Jam nuts for the RH threaded Rod ends as well, The Rod end kit comes with the jam nuts. Only the LH threaded jam nut is required as the Tie rod end does not come with one.
The rod end kits come with spacers for through bolt mounting, The spacers as they are from AFCO are too wide. You need to cut them down.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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The ONLY issue with doing these arms is that there is no mounting point for the rear sway bar. I have seen guys make similar arms for the rear and weld mounting points for the sway bar link. However what I'm planning on doing is welding a mounting point onto the rear trailing arm and making a sway bar attachment from the trailing arm instead. This way there is no excess stress on these lower arms in terms of a twisting force on them (they are just threaded in and locked with Jam nuts I could see them wanting to break loose) and if for whatever reason I want to adjust the rear lower arms to correct for a slight alignment issue with no sway bar mount on them I can unlock the jam nuts and give them a little turn or so -where as if I weld a mounting point to them I won't be able to do this.
Hope this helps out. I wish I had found that thread way back when as I could have built the Upper Camber arms with the same parts for much cheaper than the Ingals arms I have (and still cheaper than the Stealth arms)
(EDITED in bold for those who seem to miss this, Do people not read either the link about how to build afco upper arms from the Galant forum link I posted above or even this key info? Not trying to be rude but the amount of questions regarding upper arms is absurd when I took the time to give you the info in the thread)
For those wanting to build UPPER arms substitute the 17 inch swage tube for a 14 inch tube (19514) the rest of the parts are the same.
I will post pics when I get my sway bar mount fab'd up and connected.
Also I just weighed the arms this a.m. AFCO 3.0lbs, Stock 4.5lbs.
