The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

GT4 Car Set Up

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ldstang50

20+ Year Contributor
1,228
1
Mar 6, 2004
Quantico, Virginia
Ok, I'm at work and can't check, so thanks. Just thought there might be the possibility.
In the VIII I got S3 I/E, chip, port polish, intercooler and oil change, 413hp. Full tranny, clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, S2 weight reduction (It actually tells you know what they are doing), and suspension.
With AWD cars they tend to push so you can't get on it hard coming out of a turn. I'm still working on getting mine set up the way I like it. I took off all the traction controls and stability managment. I lowered it to 124mm, stiffened up the front to 8 (if I remember), the rear is at 4. The front springs are at 11.4kg and the rear at 4.3kg. This stops the front from diving and allows the rear end to move around a little. I have 1.4deg of neg camber up front and -.3deg in the rear. This allows the front tires to keep from rolling over and maintaining a good contact patch. Front toe is at zero, rear toe is at -.5 This allows the rear to come around easier. I'm adjusting the sway bars right now and finding out which works best. Stiffening up the rear has worked good, but I thought I wanted to lossen the rear up tighten the front up, I'm just confused here. Anyways, all that I've done to the suspension I've done to get the rear end to come around easier and the front to stay planted. Once I got used to it I was about 1sec faster than basic setup at Auto Ring Mini.
 
I ran pretty darn quick with stock suspension... I'm saving up for suspension now... still at stock HP though... got alot of other stuff done first...

the MR is pretty darn quick around turns.... I found out the key to turning is to juke out of the turn then go back in sharp and slam on the brakes then about 25% throttle until you pass the apex, then about 50% then right before the exit 100% again... understeers WAY less, its just hard without a wheel IMO...


I'm going to stiffen up the suspension a bit, but I really like how the MR handles right now...
 
GVR-4 and any other awd car I have.

Spring setting: 9 front 6-7.5 rear If it's higher on a different awd I usually leave it but stagger around the same amount.

Shock bound: 4 front 4 rear

Shock re bound: 8 front 8 rear

Sway bars: 2 front 5-7 rear I can usually get a near neutral handle out of the gvr4 with this setup.

Brakes I also did up to 8 front and 9 rear. And lowered it around 1/3-1/4 of total travel, possibly lower. I think I went down to 112 on the gvr4 on both front and rear.

Left everything else stock.
 
here's my setup:
spring rates: 12.6front 11.9 rear
ride height: 105mm front-107mm-rear
bound: 7 front- 8 rear
rebound: 9 front- 9 rear
camber angle: 2.0 front- 2.0 rear
stabilizers: 1 front- 1 rear
brake controller set at 15 front- 18 rear

w/ this setup, i clocked 52.88 at Tsukuba Circuit on normal tires, 561 hp, rollcage, fully lightened, etc...... it's a little understeery but really stable. :thumb:
 
Last night I purchased an SRT4 for the FF competition. I was thinking hatch or DSM, but I really wanted to hear if they go the sound of the snapping, snarling, popping SRT4 right. Well they didn't so I am 'stuck' with the car. I never drove the car stock I modified it right away. Its already paying itself off. This car handles better than my MR now and its still on the stock tires.
Before I came to work today I wrote down everything I had down to it.
Racing exhaust, chip, racing intercooler, brakes w/ controller, driving aids off, S3 flywheel, S3 clutch, full tranny, fully adjustable suspension, and the best thing I bought for the car an adjustable LSD. For you guys that buy FF cars, the adjustable LSD should be your first mod period no questions asked. The handling of the car, the launch, the pulling out of turns are all dramatically increased.
For suspension set up, again I went with something a little much. I still have a little tinkering to do with it, but as of right now, if I romp on the gas in the middle of a turn in 3rd gear the REAR END steps out. If you over correct she will snap back around and loop its self. I can really get the rear end to hang itself out now and really control how I want the car to handle. I can definetly promote any situation whether its understeer or over steer or a great neutral pull coming out of a turn.
Spring rates, 13F/4R
Height 107F/108R
bound 9F/7R
rebound 9F/7F
camber 1.7F/0R
toe 0F/-1R
stabilizers 4F/5R
I also adjusted the front and rear balance to -3 giving a little more weight in the rear.
As the same with the EVO I made the front stiff to decrease the body roll under braking to the front wheels. I cambered the front to keep them flat on the ground during cornering. But the main thing I did was the -1 toe in the rear. Being FF you don't want to camber the front tires as much since they are the tires that put the power to the ground. By cambering the drive tires you are essentially reducing the your contact patch. This becomes readily apparent in this car when you are trying to launch it from a standing start. You have to be very easy on the throttle for the first 3 gears. Oh thats the other thing I did, I spread the tranny to an 11 but kept the same gear ratios. This allowed me to be in 3rd and get on it sooner and not have to worry about tire spin so much pulling out of a turn.
I have played with the sway bars a little also. I originally had the rear set at 8 and the front at 3. This created a lot of snap over steer. If you were to liberal with the throttle or made a sudden change of direction with the car (i.e. snapped it quick to out break some one or hadden a quick left right left) the car was very very uneasy and would send the back end around very very quickly. It made the drive uneasy. Now with the stabilizers set the way they are, the front end gives just a smidge, while the rear tracts very nicely and only comes around when asked.
I really like the set up of this car, and I'm sure if I were to get another 100hp out of it would easily pull with the EVO. Right now just cause I have not completely tinkered with the EVO, the SRT4 handles better, even on street tires.
 
What car are you using?

TSiBER RYDER said:
here's my setup:
spring rates: 12.6front 11.9 rear
ride height: 105mm front-107mm-rear
bound: 7 front- 8 rear
rebound: 9 front- 9 rear
camber angle: 2.0 front- 2.0 rear
stabilizers: 1 front- 1 rear
brake controller set at 15 front- 18 rear

w/ this setup, i clocked 52.88 at Tsukuba Circuit on normal tires, 561 hp, rollcage, fully lightened, etc...... it's a little understeery but really stable. :thumb:
 
Does the suspension in the AWD cars help alot in the rally modes, like by not sliding so much? Also, is there something special you have to buy to actually race against other people in the rally events? I had a Suby STi with the dirt tires and it would only let me "practice."
 
New setup for tarmac.

Galant vr4

Spring rates: 8.5 front 9.5 rear
Ride Height: 128mm front 128mm rear
shock bound: 4 front 3 rear
shock rebound: 8 front 7 rear
sway bar settings: 2 front 6 rear

Set brake level to: 8 front 10 rear

I gaurantee you'll love the way this car feels after these setup changes. Car now rotates like an evo mr. Just tried it out on stage 2 second rally in special events and came out 17 seconds ahead of the celica gt4 WITH one 5 second wall hit penalty. :thumb: :dsm:
 
Also, does anyone have the stock settings for the "Driving Aids" for the EVO MR? I need all 3 stock settings for ASM (oversteer), ASM (understeer), and TCS Controller. Thanks!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top