All stock with up graded turbo

[cruisintalonawd]

Ok so I'm need of a Turbo so I figured I would just get an up graded one...I will have everything stock except a FMIC and 3" exhaust. I know I one be able to go past 12psi with stock fuel but I will ugrading that ASAP. When I get all the suporting mods I will was to be wanting to run about 20-25psi. So what turbo would you recamend.

I was looking at the FP green and the 18gs.

Thanks for the input

 

[JusMX141]

The Green won't be happy on low boost. I mean, it will work....but you're not going to feel what that turbo can do until you get in the 20's of psi.

If your turbo took a dump and you just want something to make the car driveable, look for a 14B or a Small 16G for now. Once you push either one of those turbos to the limit with supporting mods, THEN look at the Green.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

It really depends on how far you want to go with the mods. What are your plans? I'd say stick with a 16g unless you're going to upgrade fuel system, transmission, rebuild the engine, etc...

 

[kre8ive_kustomz]

Both turbos perform very well, however before investing in either you would need quite a few other supporting mods. The fmic and 3" exhaust are both definately a good start but until you do some fuel and internal work you might want to try a 16g. Maybe upgrade the fuel system which isn't terribly expensive and go for a super 16g.

 

[cruisintalonawd]

ill be getting DSM link with probly 1000cc injectors, 255high pressure fuel pump, aeromotive FPR and what ever else is needed at that piont

 

[2gdanny]

hey man i would honestly say stay with a 16g do external gate so you can control the boost a lil better and some nice injectors and you will be really happy for an everyday/track car.

i actually have a evo3 big 16g ported and cliped on a 2g manifold with 38mm wastegate flang and o2 housing and a nice set off 720cc injectors that was my set up befor i when all out and i have all this for sell

and also the jpipe that you would need..

 

[cruisintalonawd]

hey man i would honestly say stay with a 16g do external gate so you can control the boost a lil better and some nice injectors and you will be really happy for an everyday/track car.

what kind of internal work because I will be swapping out the motor in the car for a rebuilt motor with 20 over 8.0 C/R pistons, stock rods and crank, and maybe so 272 or 280 cams

i actually have a evo3 big 16g ported and cliped on a 2g manifold with 38mm wastegate flang and o2 housing and a nice set off 720cc injectors that was my set up befor i when all out and i have all this for sell

and also the jpipe that you would need..

what are you 1/4 mile times with them??? How much???

 

[JusMX141]

Anything more than a 264/272 combo for a 16G may result in shooting yourself in the foot.

272's or even 280's will move the engine's power range far past the useable power that a 16G will make.

If you want a kickass streetable turbo setup, look to a TD05H 20G. It spools like a 16G but doesn't fall flat on top.

 

[2gdanny]

i did this set up drove it for about 2 weeks and took it out i dynod at turbotrix dyno with this set up on pump gas and dsmlink on 20psi 346.... it was a monster on the streets and really good on gas and honestly "it wasnt even a good tune" but now im going with a fully built motor.

 

[cruisintalonawd]

I also thought about the 20g but I'm gonna get 2gdanny's set up

 

[JusMX141]

Whatever you want.

 

[2gdanny]

20g its not worth it at alll unless u get them for a good price or can get them for free.
the price between the evo3 big 16g and the 20g are like doubel ,
horse power gain isnt realy there." it is but not much more then the 16g for the money"
with the money you spend on a 20g you can get the 16g and install kit.
thats only my opinion.

 

[JusMX141]

20g its not worth it at alll unless u get them for a good price....horse power gain isnt realy there.

Uh....

....you're right, but considering the 20G is just the "next step up" from a 16G, it does a hell of a fine job for the money- every bit as good as stepping up from a 14B to a 16G.

However, unless this is the OP's first DSM, and after he was looking toward an FP Green or at the very least an 18G, I don't think he'd be completely satisfied with the power output of a 16G.

 

[2gdanny]

i agree with you ..when steping up from a 14b everything is better and y not get a 20g.
biger=better well then a 20g goes for no less then $800 then for that much money get 300 more and get your self a gt35r with a mitsu housing or even a pte61 that goes for 1100 1200 + oil feed + return lines. you know where its all going $$$$$$$

turbo for turbo yeah biger is better but money for money 16g all the way at least in my book.

 

[Zmann42087]

You were thinking about an FP Green and now your settling for a 16g? Don't get me wrong.. thats a great street turbo, but its a completely different animal than the turbo you initially wanted.

As mentioned, the 20g is great but its quite pricey.

Have you ever thought about a PTE 50trim?

 

[2gdanny]

yeah thats a really good turbo like i was saying for the money i would just save up and get something biger and better .
i will be giving him a kika$$ deal for less money then a 20g
evo3 big 16g turbo
2g mani with 38mm gate flange
o2housing
injectors
jpipe
fuel pump
gaskets, bolts and return and feed lines
shipped ..,,
if any one thinks he showld pass on this hands up?

 

[JusMX141]

Since 720's are overkill for a 16G anyway, I'd buy your setup and sell the turbo....replace it with a 20G.

I see the PTE 5031 was mentioned. A FP Green uses the same compressor wheel....so it's basically a 50-trim turbo that still retains the durable Mitsu center section. Garrett T3 CHRA's have a history of questionable reliability- especially those that are dry (not water-cooled.)

As far as Danny's mention of a Ball Bearing turbo for not much more than a 20...again, you're very right- but remember that Ball Bearing turbos are VERY fragile and aren't a dependable choice for a daily driver. If I was building a car that saw nothing but the 1320....it would be ball bearing all the way.

 

[2gdanny]

as far as i know all the turbos are (water-cooled) i had the 14b with the water lines i had the 16g with water lines till turbotrix said i didnt really need sens its a small turbo so it wont creat as much heat so water lines where capd off on the thermostat housing.
now ill be running the gt35r and its going to be water cooled.

you did say "but remember that Ball Bearing turbos are VERY fragile and aren't a dependable choice for a daily driver".

i dont agree with you at all. if you are not going with a fully built motor then a ball bearing turbo is the way to go, beeing a big turbo they are abel to give you the quik spool as a 16g 20g and all the small turbos do and still handeling 25psi++and making alot off power with motor mods.

none ball bearing turbos are known for taking for ever for spool up most off my friends got them 50 trims and 60 trims on there hondas i dont feel any power wats so ever till maybe like 4k when the turbo is fully spooled.

 

[JusMX141]

none ball bearing turbos are known for taking for ever for spool up most off my friends got them 50 trims and 60 trims on there hondas i dont feel any power wats so ever till maybe like 4k when the turbo is fully spooled.

That's fine, but when you're at the drag races, does your car ever drop below 4k? Unless you're a poor driver and can't shift it shouldn't. At that time, the quick spool of a ball-bearing turbo is doing you no good at all. The reason hardcore drag racers like ball bearing turbos is that they can run much larger setups than street cars yet while not sacrificing spool time.

Just for kicks, when you get done bolting that 35R to your stock motor, let me know what RPM you hit full boost at.

If you're the type of person who wants to light up all 4 on the highway by dropping a gear and pinning it, then more power to you....a ball-bearing turbo is what you need. However, I'm very happy with my journal-bearing turbos that are fully rebuildable.

 

[2gdanny]

beeing rebuildabel or not is not the question.
as far as me having a stock motor, ill be fully built bottom end and trany just stock head with the gt35r.

shiffting befor 4k you are right no one will shift befor 4k like you said but side by side a ball bearing next to a none bearing on a downshift till the journal builds boost the ball bearing is pulling on it already.

im not saying journal turbos are bad becouse they are not wats so ever, how many psi do you build on launch?

i would rather use a journal turbo for a full race car then street car ### comes down to is
having motor work to spool a journal turbo where on a ball bearing you dont need much work done to have the turbo spooling on idel

 

[cruisintalonawd]

Well I had a guy PM me saying he'd has dsmlink and a 16g for 630 shipped. But still no mater what I do ill have to get a loan. This is my 2nd dsm first one was a fwd that I didn't really take care of and I'm wanting to do this one right the first time. I was thinking just get the loan for all the fuel stuff. The dsmlink and the turbo. Any one here that has knowlege about the bullseye18g from slowboyracing

 

[2gdanny]

i have no idea about the sbr 18g .but just make sure that the turbo that guy hes talking about is eather a ebay , small or evo3 16g it sounds cheap to be a evo3 16g.

 

[JusMX141]

I have a freshly rebuilt SBR 18G that I'm preparing to list in the classifieds by the weekend. It looks like a Small 16G from the outside, but inside is where the goods are. It wasn't made by Bullseye or anything, and it didn't have a Bullseye exhaust housing (although I have one of those at my shop as well.) It simply looked like a plain old Small 16G. Sleeper!~!

I had another 18G identical to this one listed in the classifieds about 2 weeks ago, and it sold in the first 10 hours. I continued to get emails about it for days afterward.

 

[JusMX141]

you did say "but remember that Ball Bearing turbos are VERY fragile and aren't a dependable choice for a daily driver".

i dont agree with you at all.

That's fine, no one's saying you have to. The fact that manufacturer's choose journal bearing turbos for reliability is proof enough for me.

My buddy's F350 Powerstroke has almost 300k on it, still pushing the stock Garrett journal bearing turbo. My father's Freightliner truck has 963k on the stock, untouched Caterpillar / Garrett Airesearch turbo...also a journal bearing unit.

To each their own.

 

[2gdanny]

The fact that manufacturer's choose journal bearing turbos doesnt mean its for reliability one its cheaper 2 a truck / stock car they come with journal bearing turbos becouse one they are small turbos and 2 if its on a truck it doesn't really need take off its all about torque= only when the turbo is fully spooled.

i agree with you journal turbos are good but if i had 2 chose between a journal or bb turbo
i would go bb hands down for a track car or street driven.