lc1/db gauge programming

[Dxc545]

I Just finished installing LC-1 wide-band with the db gauge. I'm running the wide-band output 2 to the ecu (simulating narrow-band from Ecmlink) and trying to reprogram the gauge to read correctly from output 1 but it never saves the changes I make. I've tried multiple times and the software on innovatelc1orlm1install]innovatelc1orlm1install_innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki] [ECMTuning - wiki
Does anyone have hints/tricks?

 

[snowborder714]

If you can't get it work, just split the brown wire again and run it to the gauge as well as the ECU. No reprogramming necessary then.

 

[Dxc545]

I can slice them together without any ill effects?? I'll Have to try that thanks

 

[Dxc545]

So that didn't work as expected.. When I spliced the gauge with the brown wire that also goes to the ecu for logging, it would be fine at idle but going into boost it would drop ridiculously low/rich Afr. I'm guessing the gauge is taking half the voltage from the wide band signal and the other half gets to the ecu. logs are before and after

 

[snowborder714]

Never seen that happen - either way, it shouldn't "split voltage" between the two sources. Can you describe how exactly you have it wired up and where the new splice is?

 

[Dxc545]

I spliced the gauge's white wire to the wide band brown wire before the ecu. I have it setup for narrow band sim using the guides on the forum. Power for the wide band and gauge are from the cigarette lighter.

 

[snowborder714]

Maybe try logging the raw WB voltage value to see what's happening with that.

 

[Dxc545]

Alright what would I be looking for? low voltage under boost?

 

[snowborder714]

Most likely. Or just something that seems out of the ordinary. If you want to, you could also disconnect the splice and test with the brown wire just going to the ECU and compare results.

 

[Dxc545]

Ok just logged WB volts. It follows the WB input basically, so under boost it would drop almost to zero volts.

 

[snowborder714]

Hmm...try taking that splice out and logging again. Other people have done this without any issues, so not sure what's going on here.

 

[boost97gst]

I know it did not work for me. It would have been nice too since im running internal nb sim and only the wb in the o2 housing. Wouldnt have to touch lmconfig. If it simply wont work then youll have to program lmconfig to output 2 wb signals instead of the way it ships: one wb, one nb. Its an extra hassle

Im going to attempt it again with a scope on the line to figure out if the ecu or the gauge is loading it and causing problems.

 

[Dxc545]

now I'm totally lost.. the wide band is reading all over the place. would the wide band go rich if I had an exhaust leak at the sensor? I'm checking that now

so i got it working normally again. I'm not sure if the o2 sensor was loose or it needed re calibrated, but after I pulled the sensor out and did that its working fine again. Is it necessary to re calibrated the LC-1 after the battery is disconnected?

 

[boost97gst]

So you DID end up getting it to work from 1 wire running to the gauge and ecu? Thats great dude.

I dont have a concrete answer but anecdotal evidence that it does NOT need to be reprogrammed(free to air cal) after the battery is dosconnected. I have never had wacky readings from unhooking the battery for any amount of time and running with out a free to air cal.

 

[Dxc545]

Yup works great from one wire. Alright cool, its just a pain taking the O2 sensor out and I must have never gotten it torqued down enough. Never could get the LC-1 programmed using LM programmer v.3.32 or v.3.15 from widows vista. Thanks for the help though

 

[snowborder714]

Glad to hear you finally got it working!

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Just wanted to say thank you SOOOOOO much for this thread. You just solved my wideband problem as well.

 

[boost97gst]

Yup, good thread. The grounds and positive MUST go where ecmtuning says and heavier than normal wiring is a good thing. I got mine working great off one wire after running larger gauge wire and changing a ground point. Spot on perfect now. link matches gauge after months of it getting worse and worse.

Lmconfig is a PITA to work with and there really is no need to at all if wired properly. All ya need is the brown wire.

 

[Dxc545]

Ha I probably searched the internet for 8 hours for a solution before I posted up. I'm guessing they never sorted out the bugs since the last firmware was back in 2007 and even ecmtuning mentioned that the older lmconfig v.3.15 was the only stable one, but ya Tee off the brown wire and your golden

 

[v8s_are_slow]

This needs to be put in a sticky or something, SOMEWHERE!!! I searched forever as well. And think people got tired of me asking and asking and asking....as well as tech support getting tired of me calling. Lol. I was getting pretty ticked off with this thing. This is the only thread I've found that pointed me in the right direction. Not sure how people are getting theirs to work properly without doing it this way. I couldn't get the older version of LM Programmer to save on my computer or to save my settings.

 

[boost97gst]

I got lmconfig to work and used the yellow and br wires successfully for some time. It just started getting worse and i noticed a few threads brought up about and decided why not try the one wire solution. This should be a sticky for sure.

The prob with lmconfig is getting the adapter to be recognized at the right port iirc. I used a win7 32bit laptop to do it but it took a while to actually get it right. I wont need to worry about that again tho

 

[v8s_are_slow]

The one thing that was driving me nuts was that my laptop doesn't have a serial port for the cable to connect to and had to buy a "serial to usb adapter". I thought the whole serial thing was old school. Anyway, I wanted to hook up to it right away. Not order one on the net and get it a few days later. So I looked all over town trying to find one. Finally found one at $40, and then I couldn't seem to get the whole LM Programmer to work right anyway. So wasted my time driving all over town, and having to take the cable back, just to end up hooking up the brown wire like in this thread and solve the problem.

I swear, the Innovate guys need to get with it and write a program that saves your settings, and supply a cable that's more compatible. Like a usb cable??? Sheesh!!! Anywho, end rant now. Lol.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Guys, I did this myself but it's been awhile and now trying to help someone else. He has an MTX-L though and NOT running Narrowband. He's running 7.3 in his log but his gauge is showing the correct reading.

I'm not sure if he has the same issue where he needs to split the wire, but if so, I can't remember what wire to put where. Split brown wire from the gauge I'm guessing and run where? I'm guessing maybe run the brown wire from the gauge to the ecu (rear O2), and then splice into it with whatever wire and run it where? I totally can't remember. Input please? Thanks!!!

 

[boost97gst]

Whatever wire hes got running to his gauge just split off that and run it to the ecu input used to log the wb. It should work just as good as it does with the lc-1. Same manufacturer right? The brown wire is the one you need to split/tee off.

 

[snowborder714]

The MTX-L is a bit different - the yellow wire is the wideband signal wire. That's the one that needs split between the gauge and ECU.