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Resolved Spyder GS Alternator not charging correctly

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3,244
241
Jun 25, 2011
Inman, South Carolina
Okay so History is when I put this car (98 Spyder GS) on the road a month or so ago the alt was acting up. At times it wouldn't charge at all and at times it would. The regulator was bad in it and it would overcharge up to 19v. It ended up blowing out my high beams on the way to get my other alt to swap it out.

Now with the old alternator still on when I was first trying to figure out what was going on with it, the battery light would come on when it wouldn't charge. That night looking it (before it blew the high beams going to get the other alt) was the last time I seen the battery light working.

Now with this other 110 amp alt that I bought that I had used on my GST without issue it works in a strange way. It will work (charging 14+) when I first start it up then eventually it will switch to only charging around 12.3-12.5vs. I can turn headlights on high, heater fan on high, radio on and step on the brakes and it will still keep charge at around 12.16-12.2X volts.

Now the strange part is whenever it switches to charging 12.2-12.5v is that it will start charging 14.5-14.6 anytime the revs go over 2500 rpm. Also it will start charging 14.6v whenever the engine sees a certain load. I can be driving down the road, torque converter lockup and drop revs down to 1700 rpm, then apply brake and gas to create engine load and it will start charging 14.3 or higher with highbeams on, heater on high, and brake lights on obviously. With all that on at 1700-1800 rpm with engine under a load it will charge 14.5+ volts. Let off the gas to relieve some of the engine load and it switches right back to charging 12.3-12.6 volts.

At no point does the charge light come on. Even with the key on bulb check. All under the hood fuses are good as well as the fuses in the interior fuse block. I cleaned all the contacts for the fusible links in the underhood fuse block. The contacts on the fuses themselves and the eyelets on the wires, as well as the fuse block contact area. Also cleaned the battery ground post, ground contacts that comes of the Neg post to the firewall (removed the paint to bare metal contact, and ground contact area under the a/c hose on the left fender to no change.

Only thing left I have to check is the diode for the charging light which I haven't found its location yet. Is this inside the gauge cluster or else where?

Any help is much appreciated, thanks. Jacob M.
 
Solution
So I clipped the white wire at the 4 pin plug that comes from the ECU that forces it to only charge 12.5 volts. Now it works fine. I believe the old alt may have damaged the ECU when it was overcharging. Everything else is fine though. Besides the poor mpg I've been getting.
Difference between
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power from here(volt meter) and power at battery(power probe).
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. << Lights and heater on


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<<Lights, heater fan, and a/c+a/c fan.

This is all at idle

Second set of pix a/c was running
 

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Test the current at the alternator terminal.

If the wires going from the alternato to the fuse is not good, it will drop some voltage between the alternator and fuse (engine fuse box).
Check the volts at the alternator, then make another test at the fuse (both sides of the fuse) and last test at the battery terminal, see if there are any differences on all test.
Also add a ground to the alternator case to see if it makes any change.

Forgot to ask, what kind alternator you have, some aftermarket doesnt charge below 8 or 900 rpm.

I have my stock car with the original alternator and does the same thing, but I haven't have any problem with it like that, so I just leave it as is.
 
There is no difference between voltage coming of the the back of the alt and volts at the battery.

The problem I'm trying to fix is the charge light bulb not working anymore. The old alt overcharged and I believe it may have blown the diode but I'm not sure where it is. In the cluster?

If I unplug the alternator while running it will charge like normal then only 12.2-12.4 when I plug it back in so something is telling it to barely charge like I was WOT or something.

Of I'm driving in OD then press OD off it will turn it on and charge normal till I get down around 1200-1300rpm. Then do the same if I pull it into 2nd but soon as I give it any throttle or come to a stop it goes back to barely charging.
 
Ho, I see, you said it right, you have a bad generator relay, It's located in the engine bay, it's located at the MAF, is low down bolted on the frame. I think pics will tell better.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/402040-omron-relay-broke.html

You have to replace the bulb on the cluster as well.

Check this other pic. This car is a 99 which they came without Generator relay so it will not be shown on the pic (down below) it only shows the boost controller.
The generator relay is bolted down with the same bolt the boost controller is bolted on, so it will be right next to it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542249-post31.html
 
I have a 2.4l N/T generator relay would be mounted on the driver fender below the a/c line. However as you can see in the picture in my post above, this 98 model didn't come with one and the two wires and directly joined from factory.

Also I have already changed and tested the bulb itself and the bulb works.
 
Well a spyder 4g64 is just about the same as a turbo model electrically. Just a few diff pins at the ECU and that's about it. Besides the cluster and no boost solenoid
 
So I clipped the white wire at the 4 pin plug that comes from the ECU that forces it to only charge 12.5 volts. Now it works fine. I believe the old alt may have damaged the ECU when it was overcharging. Everything else is fine though. Besides the poor mpg I've been getting.
 
Solution
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