Have you checked your PCV valve?

No I will tommorrow...I thought that caused the engine to suck air through the filler hole? I hope it is just that and maybe my valve cover gasket leaking, or a cracked valve cover.

Definitely check the PCV valve. Positive Crankcase Ventillation, -positive pressure in the cranckcase is released by the PCV into the intake tube just after the MAS.

You may soon have oil leaking out everywhere if the blowby is severe. Get a new PCV now, and when you rebuild it make sure in the least to get the cylinders honed and install some new rings.

Blowby is when air, fuel, and moisture are forced past your piston rings into your crankcase. This happens when your piston rings arn't sealing like they should. Higher mileage cars often have blow by due to wear. Blow by can be caused by improperly machine cylnder walls, improperly fitted piston rings, worn piston rings, wrong piston ring gaps, broken piston ring, and a broken piston.

Effects of blow by can include a loss of compression (due to lack of piston ring sealing), dilution of oil (air, fuel, mositure mixing with oil), poor emissions, oil in the air cleaner (bad pcv), leaky gaskets (valve cover, oil pan etc.).

As for your engine, I think you will be able to tell better once you get a compression test done. Once you figure out the compression, take it from there, start with the basics and good luck!

Keep my posted!

^^Very helpfull! Thanks a lot for the input guys.

Well I changed the pcv valve and there is not much difference. It feels like it might be blowing a little less but it still if blowing air through the oil fill hole. I wonder how much longer my engine will last in it's current state? I'll do a compression test as soon as I can.

does the motor run smooth or do u notive slight skips?

Well, it feels kinda slow until I hit full boost, it's like lag but more-so.

^Could this be becuase I have a really big exhaust leak after the o2 housing and before the cat? Boost leaks?

It doesn't hiccup if thats what you mean, but it is dying every once in a while at a stop (as if I am venting my bov).

A leak down test will tell you alot more than a compression test, but the compression test is important too. The leak down test will tell you the precent of leak down and where you are losing your compression.

If the new PCV isn't an OEM valve, it's probably no better than the one you replaced.

Also, the VC breather line that goes from the VC to the intake pipe feeds in after the air filter, so you shouldn't see any oil in your filter.

A good description of a compression test (if you haven't already found it) is:

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm

A boost leak test is always a good idea on an older motor. Make the tester for a few bucks and see how your intake is standing up to 13psi. Big leaks rob a lot of power and fuel economy. You'd be suprised.

Let us know how that compression test goes and good luck!

If your PCV is functioning normally and you have normal idle vacuum (18-22 inHg) then it would take a really large amount of blow-by to pressurize your crankcase to the level that you are describing. In other words the amount of blow-by gases would have to be accumulating in the crankcase much faster than the PCV system could suck it out. For this to happen your piston rings and/or cylinder walls would have to be in pretty bad shape. I would think that this in turn would correlate with significantly low compression leading to noticeable driveability issues. In a couple of your posts you did mention loss of off boost power. I would guess that you have excessive blow-by/low compression AND suboptimal PCV function causing the excessive crankcase pressure.

In addition to doing the compression test you need to measure the amount of vacuum at idle. I didn't see a boost guage in your profile so this is a good excuse to get one. If you have a mechanic friend you can also ask to borrow a vacuum guage.

Also, unscrew your PCV valve from the valve cover but leave it hooked up to the vacuum hose and use your finger to feel for vacuum through the valve.

As Mack said, do a boost leak test. The same air leaks which can hinder performance when boosting will also cause lower vacuum at idle.

Regarding your question about the exhaust leak after the O2 housing, no it won't affect performance and it is not a boost leak. A boost leak will be anywhere from the compressor outlet of the turbo to the intake side of the cylinder head. However the exhaust leak can potentially allow exhaust fumes into the cabin (carbon monoxide=not good) so better to get that taken care of.

Thanks for the info, btw I didn't mean if an exhaust leak is a boost leak .

I'm scared about my compression...I'm not sure what I would do. Hmmm I think I may be misleading, my power loss feels most noticeable while giving part throttle, at WOT the car feels ok, like a stock dsm basically (which it basically is).

I do have a boost gausge as well but my friend needed a boost gauge to check his integras psi, Ill have it back in a coupl of days, I'm using my stock solenoid right now anyways.

Kenamond you nailed it, I didn't use an OEM pcv valve, despite what I heard about non OEM ones. Ill pick one up asap.

I'm not having any misfireing, no more then 8 counts of knock @ 13 psi (when I had my b/c on) Not sure if these would be more apparent with low compression?

How long can engines go with having "hypothetically" low compression such as 120 130 110 120 <---bench diagnosing . I'm tired guys sorry if I make little sense

Sorry about the boost leak vs exhaust leak thing . I didn't mean to insult your knowledge. I think I'm getting too tired as well.