I've heard that putting those on will cause the rear to lose traction before the front. You'd also "feel" the road a bit more.

You could do that kit for a lot cheaper though, with some big washers. I think there's a vfaq on it.

i have rod ends on my trailing arms, but i built them myself. i don't drag race so i can not comment on traction. i would recomend them, but it is more fun to make them your self.i made them i bit longer,where the nut and bolt was i have a plug weld. you can see them in my photos

I have seen Pagosa DSM's setup and it is very nice. What he is talking about with the setup being longer is that his setup is stronger than the one you linked to since it goes farther into the arm.

The other thing Pagosa DSM mentioned to me that you may consider is the suspension binding up. With the washer insert on VFAQ you end up having the suspension bind due to the limited motion in the factory ends. A heim joint setup like that above or like Pagosa DSM made is much smoother and will not bind. Heck, while you're down there do a full rear-end bushing job or go all heim joints like Pagosa DSM did and I will be doing this summer. Rear subframe bushings will be available through Ray Peters in this thread.

Sorry to reply to this so late, but I have this installed in my '90 TSi. John Mueller put them in for me, adding his magic touch. Unbelievable difference. Car holds in the turns SO much better. Of course, I had this put in at the same time I had some front end work done, so it's hard to tell how much to attribute to the rear toe eliminator. I asked John about it and he said that I could attribute most of it to the rear toe elimination.

I HIGHLY recommend the rear toe eliminator to anyone with a 1g AWD. As stated above, the DSS kit isn't the only way to do it, but the heim joints really are the icing on the cake. Now on the AutoX track I can go into a turn at full tilt...right as I go over the limit, the rear end will kick out a little bit. With the right throttle control and a bit of counter steer the tail gets RIGHT back in line and I can stomp on it on the way out of the turn. The feeling is amazing! I've driven other cars with pretty aggressive suspension that tend to get snappy or tail happy once you make adjustments to get rid of under-steer. My 1g is so predictable now, and it really goes where I tell it to go! (Thanks Mueller!)

Check out my profile to see all of my suspension mods.

All the reviews have been positive, yet I only drive my car on the street. So a tight rear end isn't needed. I think ill ill just get a trailing arm off another 1G

If it is just a cost issue, look at what Pagosa DSM did. I've ridden in his car recently and the car is nicer to be in even on the street. It just feels more solid and stable. Safe, predictable handling is a good thing in a DD too. Not trying to force the issue but if you've got some buddies with fab skills something like the image below will only set you back $50 or so.

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/0/6/5/5/DSCN0213.jpg" alt="control arm heim joint" />

eclipsh said:

If it is just a cost issue, look at what Pagosa DSM did. I've ridden in his car recently and the car is nicer to be in even on the street. It just feels more solid and stable. Safe, predictable handling is a good thing in a DD too. Not trying to force the issue but if you've got some buddies with fab skills something like the image below will only set you back $50 or so.

Click to expand...

I totally agree. While I did emphasize the performance side of the benefits, the car *is* more stable and predictable. These cars are getting OLD. I believe it is definitely worth the money to have someone fab up a toe eliminator kit. Just make sure the person fabricating knows what they're doing.

Hey Pogosa Dsm would you mind telling us how you made your kit and what parts you used? Maybe put the "how to" into the tech article section.

http://www.jakelatham.com/1gDSM/projects/rear_suspension/index2.shtml

That's probably what he did. As for me, I decided to save myself some money and just take on eoff a parts car. Welding them is a good method, untill someone inspects your car and it fails horribly.

Karma said:

http://www.jakelatham.com/1gDSM/projects/rear_suspension/index2.shtml

That's probably what he did. As for me, I decided to save myself some money and just take on eoff a parts car. Welding them is a good method, untill someone inspects your car and it fails horribly.

Click to expand...

No it is not what he did. The mod you linked to is the worst possible way of "fixing" this problem. It causes the suspension to bind when it tries to move.

Pagosa DSM used a heim joint like the one at the beginning of this thread. He just built his in a little more solid than the insert does it and for a lot less. We will be doing this mod to my car sometime this summer and posting up a how-to.

I will try , the best of my memory.It was all built on a lath.I took a 2 1/2 round stock and cut to the control arm. Since I did the washer modd first ,I had to measure the difference.As you can see in my photo the out side lip is much longer than the one from DSS. The bushing is about 6" long. I tig welded the bushing in and also plug welded where the bolt was. I drilled and tap 3/4 fine theads. Since the heim joint is 3/4 I had to make a mis-alignment insert. I drilled it 14mm and made the insert 2000th over size to press it in the heim joint.Therefore there is very little play in the heim joint. To date I have had no problems with the trailing arm or the upper rear control arm. The upper rear I got a 3/4 and a 14mm heim joint.I made it 24" long, and faced it on the lath. I drilled and tap the 3/4 and 14mm at both end of the rod. I drilled the control arm with a 3/4 drill.I cut 2 1 1/2 bushings by.620 long and taperd the inside for the heim joint.I drilled the bushings 14mm. This way I can still adjust the camber with the factory bolt

sorry I made a mistake, the rear upper control arm is 14" long

eclipsh said:

No it is not what he did. The mod you linked to is the worst possible way of "fixing" this problem. It causes the suspension to bind when it tries to move.

Pagosa DSM used a heim joint like the one at the beginning of this thread. He just built his in a little more solid than the insert does it and for a lot less. We will be doing this mod to my car sometime this summer and posting up a how-to.

Click to expand...

Darn.. I can't wait for the how to.

I know this is an old thread but does anyone know if these toe eliminator kits are still available? I have tried to pull up diamond star specialties and the link doesnt work. I even tried using google to find them and had no luck.

Just a thought... If there is enough interest in it, I can get the original fabricator to make a run of the DSS Toe eliminators...

I'd be interested. What's the estimated cost?

I'll talk to the machinist tomorrow and I'll get a cost estimate...

slvrstingray said:

Just a thought... If there is enough interest in it, I can get the original fabricator to make a run of the DSS Toe eliminators...

Click to expand...

I definately would be interested in this.

can someone please repost the first link in this tread, or post some pics of this mod? i just stumbled on this mod on the internet today, and i'm very interested in how this is accomplished, WHAT IT DOES, and where i can get the parts to complete this mod.

This is how Pagosa DSM built his setup. It is basically a plug in the end of the arm and a heim joint with spacers on either side of the heim to keep it centered. When we build mine this spring we'll take lots of pictures and post them up in a how-to.
<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/0/6/5/5/DSCN0212.jpg" alt="control arm heim joint" />

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/0/6/5/5/DSCN0213.jpg" alt="control arm heim joint" />

I've had mine welded with washers for years now and when I first did it they didn't bind and I checked them again before the start of the season last year and they still don't bind. When I did it I replaced the bolt and washer with new Mitsu stuff I haven't had any issues. Its also made the car much for predicible and its really helped get the car neutral at the track.

Before I welded them I called Mike at DSS (before he left the scene) and he said welding them is just as good and seeing how he was having problems sourcing all the parts for his kit welding would be my only option.

I am not saying that heim joints or other ways of doing are wrong but welding them with washers works for me without the arms binding.