Ok so i need to know what is the biggest baddest clutch that is made for a 1g fwd non turbo? I'm running a stock 6bolt non turbo on 10psi threw a ported 14b and a stock non turbo tranny and well the car is a monster when it hooks iv already spun the input shaft splines flat on a ram stage 3 full race 4 puck with no springs then i put a center force duel friction stage 3 on my car got into it with a 5.0 last week and 5th gear 130mph bout 5000 rpm it let go now it slips when the car starts to make good power. and i wont sacrifice my n/a tranny for a turbo one cause the gearing is unbelievable so don't even suggest it wont happen! so who's got the hookup on the sick clutch for me. Just so everyone know i broke the clutches in right flywheel was new for the ram and resurfaced for the center force. So if anyone has any experiance in this department let me know im out of ideas and tired of replacing clutches

Get an ACT 2600 extreme PP and street disc. Rated to hold up to 323hp. I don't have a 6bolt, but i do have a N/T tranny 7bolt running the ACT 2600 setup and i have a 14b pushing close to 20psi and i haven't seen slipping problems yet. Car pulls like a champ

But are you running the steped flywheel or the flat one for a non turbo?

I'm using a stock flywheel. I dont beleive they make different flywheels for N/T.

92DSMErdrick said:

I'm using a stock flywheel. I dont beleive they make different flywheels for N/T.

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My ACT 2100 PP eqivalent for the n/t flywheel worked well but if you don't want to give up your n/t transmission, I believe an AWD flywheel and clutch assembly MAY work. I measured it out one day and mocked it up for fun and it fit fine.

On the other hand, take a look at this thread I made a while ago. Makes you think. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145569

TimG said:

My ACT 2100 PP eqivalent for the n/t flywheel worked well but if you don't want to give up your n/t transmission, I believe an AWD flywheel and clutch assembly MAY work. I measured it out one day and mocked it up for fun and it fit fine.

On the other hand, take a look at this thread I made a while ago. Makes you think. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145569

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Yep I remember reading that last year, i was hoping to go with that maybe its just bad luck that third gear went

It's gonna really suck one day when that does happen if its happened to 2 people who have converted allready and retained the N/T tranny. The only good reason to keep the N/T tranny is because of the gear ratio, being able to get quicker 1/4 times. is there any way to just replace the third gear? Or maybe theres gears out there that are similiar ratio and stronger? Its a tough call i guess.

So Tim you say the N/T flywheel and AWD flywheel appear to be the same size?

Thats great if thats so, but im guessing the way the clutch mounts you would have to go with the turbo clutch setup. if you check out www.clutchcityonline.com the N/T clutch is 215mm and the turbo clutch is 225mm, do you think there may still be fitment issues in the bell housing going with the turbo clutch?

Check out this Thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1825830

Someone tried a turbo clutch with the N/T tranny and the bell housing can not fit over it. I have to ask him though if it was a FWD or AWD flywheel.

When tim said the awd flywheel was as big as the nt, he was talking about the ring gear. Every other dimension on it is different.

If you want quicker 1/4 mile times get a modified awd tranny from TRE or Shep to run in fwd mode all the time. Lots of fwd dsm'ers do this when running big slicks as it's the only way to keep the gearing in check.

92DSMErdrick said:

Check out this Thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1825830

Someone tried a turbo clutch with the N/T tranny and the bell housing can not fit over it. I have to ask him though if it was a FWD or AWD flywheel.

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Probably FWD. The AWD ring gear diameter is the same as the FWD n/t.

What I was saying is I took an old awd flywheel and clutch combination and "mocked it up" into the n/t transmission. It fit but I never tried it but I think it would work. If you have the resources and time, do some measuring.

N/T transmission though =

probably gonna just wait for the future when i do a new rebuild of the whole engine. I'll most likely go the route kyle expalined with the awd tranny set for only FWD. Def is more expensive but, you get what you pay for

92DSMErdrick said:

probably gonna just wait for the future when i do a new rebuild of the whole engine. I'll most likely go the route kyle expalined with the awd tranny set for only FWD. Def is more expensive but, you get what you pay for

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Just remember that doing so requires you run the awd flywheel and a turbo clutch. You'll also need the awd backing plate for the engine.

Hello! I am looking to replace my N/A 5 speed with a turbo 5 speed, in my 91, N/A 2.0 Laser. I was just going to leave the clutch that is in there, on, since it is working OK.

My quesiton is, will this work? or is there issues here that I am missing??

Thanks

LaserDad91 said:

Hello! I am looking to replace my N/A 5 speed with a turbo 5 speed, in my 91, N/A 2.0 Laser. I was just going to leave the clutch that is in there, on, since it is working OK.

My quesiton is, will this work? or is there issues here that I am missing??

Thanks

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You'll need to upgrade to the turbo flywheel, clutch, starter backing plate. You will also most likely have to replace the front and rear motor mount arms on the engine to locate the engine far enough forward to keep the tranny from hitting the front crossmembr.

Mavisky, thanks for the reply. I read your tech article on switching the tranny's and I am totally confused on the motor mount issue. First, I have a 91 Ply Laser N/T, and the input shaft bearing is getting noisy. I don't feel the car is worth another $800 or so invested in the trans. I have a 1990 turbo trans lined up that should be OK, hopefully.... EDIT: (I just read that it probably won't work, shifter linkages different?? )

I don't want to purchase a used tranny and then get into another $300 / $400 to make it work. If I do that, I my as well give the N/T trans to shep and let him go at it!! I won't be modding the car to any extreme, I hate to say it, but, I my as well trade it for a turbo and be done with it. All I am after is a stronger trans at a price that fits my goals and expectations for the car. There is no use in getting a used N/T trans that will probably experience the same failure within 30K or so. Yah ok, I am cheap!! Lol.

1. I crawled under the car last night and for the life of me I cannot see where the thans would hit anything. My front cross member does not protrude past the engine / trans mounting face. It is close, but there should be no interference I can see, since it ends before the engine/trans mounting point. Furthermore I have looked at the shop manual and the cross sections of the trans casings and can see the differences in the size, but I don't see any indication where they would interfere. I cannot tell if there is a difference in the input shaft length, to accommodate the larger and I am assuming, thicker clutch/flywheel assy.

Not meaning to insult you experience here, but what am I missing? It looks to me it should bolt up no problem.

2. You also state that I will need the turbo clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. I know from the research I have done the turbo flywheel is bigger than the non turbo, I am thinking the difference is about 10 mm, which means 5 mm per side. If I move the starter 5 mm in, on the turbo bell housing, I think it would engage the fly wheel OK. I am thinking I could slot the holes to make this adjustment. Would you agree?? I just don't see $400 plus for the new clutch / flywheel combo at this time.

3. I don't like the turbo gear ratios, but mainly don't like the final drive. Could I swap the differential from the N/T trans into the Turbo trans to retain get a taller final drive? I am thinking I would have to swap the "output"? shaft and differential as a set??? I would of course want to install the LSD insert at this time too.

What do you think? If you want, just email me at [email protected].

EDIT: Read through some more stuff and I think I see the issue with number one above, but please comment. Also, I found out this trans is to a 1990........and won't work with my 1991 linkages??. However, I am still curious about number three above.................

Thanks.

LaserDad91 said:

Mavisky, thanks for the reply. I read your tech article on switching the tranny’s and I am totally confused on the motor mount issue. First, I have a 91 Ply Laser N/T, and the input shaft bearing is getting noisy. I don’t feel the car is worth another $800 or so invested in the trans. I have a 1990 turbo trans lined up that should be OK, hopefully.... EDIT: (I just read that it probably won't work, shifter linkages different?? )

I don’t want to purchase a used tranny and then get into another $300 / $400 to make it work. If I do that, I my as well give the N/T trans to shep and let him go at it!! I won’t be modding the car to any extreme, I hate to say it, but, I my as well trade it for a turbo and be done with it. All I am after is a stronger trans at a price that fits my goals and expectations for the car. There is no use in getting a used N/T trans that will probably experience the same failure within 30K or so. Yah ok, I am cheap!! Lol.

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For $300-400 you could just buy a use nt tranny. Unless you've turbo'ed your car you're not making too much power for the tranny. I bought a couple at that price range but at 20psi or so through the 14b and 18g they just shredded 3rd gear. I'm making over twice the power you are now though so that's a non-issue for you really.

1. I crawled under the car last night and for the life of me I cannot see where the thans would hit anything. My front cross member does not protrude past the engine / trans mounting face. It is close, but there should be no interference I can see, since it ends before the engine/trans mounting point. Furthermore I have looked at the shop manual and the cross sections of the trans casings and can see the differences in the size, but I don’t see any indication where they would interfere. I cannot tell if there is a difference in the input shaft length, to accommodate the larger and I am assuming, thicker clutch/flywheel assy.

Not meaning to insult you experience here, but what am I missing? It looks to me it should bolt up no problem.

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The tranny will rub right behind the bulge to clear the differential.

2. You also state that I will need the turbo clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. I know from the research I have done the turbo flywheel is bigger than the non turbo, I am thinking the difference is about 10 mm, which means 5 mm per side. If I move the starter 5 mm in, on the turbo bell housing, I think it would engage the fly wheel OK. I am thinking I could slot the holes to make this adjustment. Would you agree?? I just don’t see $400 plus for the new clutch / flywheel combo at this time.

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That may work, I'm not sure on how much room there is to "slot" those holes though and then you have the issue of the starter kicking back and moving back up those same slots and you having to re-adjust the starter from time to time just to keep it lined up correctly.

3. I don’t like the turbo gear ratios, but mainly don’t like the final drive. Could I swap the differential from the N/T trans into the Turbo trans to retain get a taller final drive? I am thinking I would have to swap the “output”? shaft and differential as a set??? I would of course want to install the LSD insert at this time too.

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That won't work.

Your best move is to simply go out and buy a junkyard trans and keep it full of fluid. There's not much that Shep or any other tranny shop can do since the dual synchro's, steel shift forks, and other mods won't apply to your nt transmission. All you can do is get it rebuilt to within factory specs. I never once had an issue buying transmissions through reputable junkyards, they always went in the car and ran great, they just couldn't handle the near 270-300+ hp I was putting through them.

mavisky said:

For $300-400 you could just buy a use nt tranny. Your best move is to simply go out and buy a junkyard trans and keep it full of fluid.

There's not much that Shep or any other tranny shop can do since the dual synchro's, steel shift forks, and other mods won't apply to your nt transmission. All you can do is get it rebuilt to within factory specs. I never once had an issue buying transmissions through reputable junkyards, they always went in the car and ran great, they just couldn't handle the near 270-300+ hp I was putting through them.

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Thanks for the input. I do agree. Problem is this trans was rebult about 30K ago at some shop the previous owner took it too....and I changed it over to synchromesh after I had it about 1000 miles or so...so I don't have much faith in the junkyard deal, but we will see what develops. This car also sat for about three to four months during the winter, right after the rebuild, so that might have something to do with the bearing noise. It was probably just a lousy rebuild job you know. Anyway, thanks again, I have learned a lot investigating this.