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bad brakes @PIR 3/5/06

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everbruin

15+ Year Contributor
246
0
Oct 30, 2004
san francisco, California
portland intl raceway:
luckily it was a dry track day aside from slight dampness in the morning.

late in the afternoon, only 1 final 'bonus' session remained for A/B groups. while we waited, i chatted some more w/ a vancouver autox buddy who has a eurospec e36 m3. Then i looked at his driver side front rotor and saw a huge crack. We then saw 2 more like this:
http://justinliew.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=45&pos=1

we saw only 1 big crack on passgr side front.

well, i bled my brakes earlier that day and the talon's 4 smooth discs looked ok. As usual, not many ppl ran in the final session so i was able to run it hard. After 20 mins, i was surprised not to notice any brake mushiness. Kept going hard, then on lap 15 suddenly noticed the brake light flashed on then off. Hmmm that's weird. Half a lap later it happened again, so i decided to do a cool down lap asap. The checkered flag came so i was able to do 2 cool down laps.

Coming into the paddock, i could hear my brakes were scraping. 3 of the 4 pad prongs were scraping; in fact, the driver front pad's backing plate was also scraping since there was no pad left on one end!

never before had a single track day eaten 4 of my pads. The carbotech bobcat fronts lasted 1 rainy pir day + some autox/street + 1 dry pir day.
the oem rears lasted 1 pacific raceway day + what the bobcats endured above.

so i put on new oem pads and ordered panther+ fronts and rears from carbotech. It's the model in betw bobcat and panther xp8, both of which i've used in front. i hope it'll turn out to be a good compromise pad for autox and track. yes i want to avoid changing pads for high vs low speed events =).
 
Drilled rotors wouldn't be my first choice for track use. With continuous hard braking in race conditions a solid rotor is probably a better way to go...

Greg
 
This is why drilled brakes suck.

My R4S's have lasted a while in the rear. Front R4E's, not so much. :)
 
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