Why does my 1g awd keep fouling my plugs? (pictures)

[MidShipCivic]

Specs: Stock 4g63, stock ecu, 255LPH, (new) Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR set to 40psi (base pressure no vacuum)

It just keeps fouling my plugs I dont know why and its rich as hell like like I'm over running the FPR.

Cylinder # 3 left cylinder #2 ( spark happens at both plugs )

Is 40 psi too much at idle for 255LPH ?

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Also to note #3 injector works also that plug is always soaked in fuel and it doesn't ignite. I have taken the coil pack out and swapped it with a good known working one within ohm specifications and it's the same deal.

I think its the plug wire.

 

[TunaTalon]

When I have a suspect plug problem my first visit is always to: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html

If it's just the one plug then the wire is a good candidate.
I had that problem when oil got into the spark plug wells and then water.

 

[MidShipCivic]

When I have a suspect plug problem my first visit is always to: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html

If it's just the one plug then the wire is a good candidate.
I had that problem when oil got into the spark plug wells and then water.

I swapped the plug wire it doesn't seem to run any different I unplug the injector and the engine reacts to it but doesn't explain why it is so clean.

I even swapped 2 with 3 and let it sit there and idle.

 

[Talesin]

Stock base fuel pressure is 36psi with no vacuum. You're running it a bit over 11% richer just on fuel pressure alone. After all, when you have a low base fuel pressure, even a small amount of difference makes a large change. Unless you're trying to compensate for a hacked MAS (or have a fuel tuning device to allow you to compensate for the greater flow), I'd suggest turning the fuel pressure down to match a stock level.

Have you checked the resistance on that particular plug wire? They're not difficult to test, after all. Just use the ohmmeter on your multimeter. (If you don't have one, a cheap, semi-decent one will run you around $25). You can also swap plugs 1/4 and 2/3, and see if that makes any difference if you're worried about a plug wire being bad. Since our cars use a waste spark ignition system, both of the 'buddy cylinders' fire at the same time, 'wasting' one of the sparks on an expended cylinder which is in the process of venting its gasses into the exhaust.

Make sure you're using the proper NGK/Denso BPR6ES plugs (and not some crappy Bosch replacement), gapped properly at .028", if you're using anything else (as you didn't list what type of plugs you had in your hand).
If you've moved up to BPR7ES, looks like the engine isn't running at a level to justify that, and still allow the spark plugs to be self-cleaning. Filling out your car profile in entirety including (mod-list) can help alleviate these questions.

 

[vert90tsi]

Filling out your car profile in entirety including (mod-list) can help alleviate these questions.

notice he did post a list of his mods at the top of his post

looks to be too rich to me.. but i dont know much about dsms anymore.. i dont see why one cylinder would be richer than the other?

 

[csgsx23]

Fouled or stuck open injector? maybe

 

[MidShipCivic]

Fouled or stuck open injector? maybe

I'm thinking the injector is bad too there 2G injectors that I bought cleaned & sonic tested.

A little moment ago I had the car running and I unplugged the injector and the motor didn't react much at all for #3.


Talsin : If you read my reply I swapped 3 & 2 around and got no affect.

 

[Mr.Tao]

Switch your injectors around and see if the problem occurs in another cylinder.
Check your spark plug gaps. Make sure they are gapped according to oem specs.
Check and make sure that 1g runs 40 psi fuel pressure.

Most problems are because of the age of the car.

 

[bling5tatus]

The fact that you said unplugging the injector didn't affect the car points strongly to an injector problem. You can do this with a logger by just disabling the injectors one by one and whichever one doesn't cause the motor to run differently will be your culprit.

 

[19Eclipse90]

The fact that you said unplugging the injector didn't affect the car points strongly to an injector problem. You can do this with a logger by just disabling the injectors one by one and whichever one doesn't cause the motor to run differently will be your culprit.

How is that going to be any different than unplugging the injectors one by one from the engine bay harness? No connection to the plug and it has no pulse to inject anything. Whichever one he unplugs that does not affect how the motor is running would be a suspect. He's already done this. Or am I missing something?

 

[MidShipCivic]

@ some replies.

Uhh heres what I've come down to : I'll physically switch the injector into another cylinder and then unplug it to see if the engine dies or even react at all. This way this will tell me if it's the ecu's driver thats faulty ( if it doesn't react for the working injector on #3) and if the suspected injector switched to #2 cyl. shows no affect when unplugged.

 

[viprez586]

The fact that you said unplugging the injector didn't affect the car points strongly to an injector problem. You can do this with a logger by just disabling the injectors one by one and whichever one doesn't cause the motor to run differently will be your culprit.

Hit the nail on the head.
A bad(stuck closed) injector will make your car sound like a boxer motor(wrx) and make you run terribly lean if it decides to crap out on you

Happened to me on a 2hr ride home ...thank god for AAA.

But if the injector is stuck open...meh, time for some bigger injectors and a 2g maf

 

[MidShipCivic]

Hit the nail on the head.
A bad(stuck closed) injector will make your car sound like a boxer motor(wrx) and make you run terribly lean if it decides to crap out on you

Happened to me on a 2hr ride home ...thank god for AAA.

But if the injector is stuck open...meh, time for some bigger injectors and a 2g maf

The fact that my injectors are sonic cleaned and tested 2g 450cc 's make me frown, also the fact that I have a 37 psi base idle fuel pressure and my plugs look like I'm on an untuned ecu running rich like a pig in the mud (100% stock ecu btw).

Today I did this little injector test, and #4 is also discovered to be not injecting also. My conclusion is my ECU is to blame. I'm getting a replacement.

 

[viprez586]

You COULD carefully remove your lower honey comb and use very small bolts to hold it back in place(when you fix your problem), just be very careful with everything. If you decide to do this and damage your honey comb i have one laying around i believe. Anyway this is something you could do just to get the car running a little bit better.

Oh yeah what are your fuel trims?

 

[MidShipCivic]

You COULD carefully remove your lower honey comb and use very small bolts to hold it back in place(when you fix your problem), just be very careful with everything. If you decide to do this and damage your honey comb i have one laying around i believe. Anyway this is something you could do just to get the car running a little bit better.

Oh yeah what are your fuel trims?

What do you mean fuel trims? I'm on a stock ecu, and I don't have a logger.

I just want the car to run normal.

 

[Talesin]

Even freshly cleaned injectors can stick. One of mine was stuck open when I got a set from RRE, had to listen to it with a mechanic's stethoscope to figure out which one ($12 at Autozone, or you can use a screwdriver and put your ear up to the end of the handle). A good whack with the handle of a screwdriver can unstick a stuck one. Just give it a few sharp raps, then listen again. They should be making a steady, rapid distinct clicking noise.

Also, to test if it's the ECU, you can use a noid light. AZ has them in the back (most of their monkeys don't know about them) on their tool-loan program, but you can just as easily walk over to the ricer accents section and grab a three-pack of LEDs with the resistor already wired on. Unplug the suspect injector and plug in the noid light to see if it flashes (or touch the ends of the LED/resistor thing to the pins inside the connector, and watch to see it flash). If it does, injector problem. If it doesn't, either the ECU or wiring has a problem.

And consider getting a logger cable. If you have a laptop, a standard ALDL/ODBI cable with a plug for our diagnostic port only runs around $30-35. Tunerstein (free logging software) works perfectly at that point, and you aren't stuck paying $ridiculoussumofcash to Pocketlogger. You can use a genderchanger on the serial cable with a Palm device, and use Palm 'n Stein (also free) if you have one of those instead. It really can and does help with diagnosing these cars, especially if you plan to own yours for another five years.

 

[MidShipCivic]

Even freshly cleaned injectors can stick. One of mine was stuck open when I got a set from RRE, had to listen to it with a mechanic's stethoscope to figure out which one ($12 at Autozone, or you can use a screwdriver and put your ear up to the end of the handle). A good whack with the handle of a screwdriver can unstick a stuck one. Just give it a few sharp raps, then listen again. They should be making a steady, rapid distinct clicking noise.

Also, to test if it's the ECU, you can use a noid light. AZ has them in the back (most of their monkeys don't know about them) on their tool-loan program, but you can just as easily walk over to the ricer accents section and grab a three-pack of LEDs with the resistor already wired on. Unplug the suspect injector and plug in the noid light to see if it flashes (or touch the ends of the LED/resistor thing to the pins inside the connector, and watch to see it flash). If it does, injector problem. If it doesn't, either the ECU or wiring has a problem.

And consider getting a logger cable. If you have a laptop, a standard ALDL/ODBI cable with a plug for our diagnostic port only runs around $30-35. Tunerstein (free logging software) works perfectly at that point, and you aren't stuck paying $ridiculoussumofcash to Pocketlogger. You can use a genderchanger on the serial cable with a Palm device, and use Palm 'n Stein (also free) if you have one of those instead. It really can and does help with diagnosing these cars, especially if you plan to own yours for another five years.

What makes 2 injectors not work? I swapped them around the working pair is doing the same thing.

 

[xtreme-elements]

my buddy had this problem... we got a wide band so we could tune his car with an safc.. no more fouling.. i pretty sure cause the 255 was too much fuel but we got it fixed now thanks to the safc and the wide band o2...