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Wanting to buy a broken 1G FWD Turbo, need diagnosis.

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Norby

15+ Year Contributor
32
0
Feb 28, 2007
Keizer, Oregon
I've searched around and read many postings re: tranny troubles. The car I want to buy is a definite fixer-upper but the engine is in great shape and passed smog too. Trouble is with the tranny. It's as if it is in gear, yet the shifter is in neutral. If you let out the clutch then the car dies, car does not move at all. You can shift between all the gears but the car does not move.
I hope that explanation makes sense. Worst case scenario is to replace the tranny. Is it true a non-turbo FWD tranny would be an option?
Thanks for any help I can get.
 
I was afraid of it, but took a chance anyway. Got the car for $900, needs some paint here and there but otherwise all complete. It's a '92 Eclipse turbo FWD, 6 bolt motor.
I went ahead and bled the clutch lines, it's all good now. I did notice the clutch master cylinder is leaking slightly, that might be why the clutch pedal doesn't spring back to the top.
The oil pressure gauge in the dash is not working but I know I have good oil pressure. I flushed the engine twice and poured in Mobil 1. I can see oil squirting onto the cam lobe. Time to research that problem.
The a/c system works but doesn't blow cold. JVC cd player is mp3 compatible, has 4volt outputs, nice.
Oil filter housing was loose but I tightened it. I'm going to see if I can do the stack-of-washers trick.
Motor does start up right away and purrs with the Mobil 1.
 
you dont need a new clutch, my car does that exact same thing right now, its in the tranny, you can get it fixed but its just easier and cheaper to get a new tranny
 
I figured out why the oil pressure gauge doesn't work. The wire harness that connects to the oil pressure sender is missing. Do you guys know the part # so I can stop by the dealer and pick one up?
 
dont know the number but if you just go to the dealer and tell them what you want and for what kind of car they will know
 
Hey, I noticed my boost gauge shows minimum level at idle, like -7. At around 4500 rpms the boost gets to 0. Is that normal?
 
I figured out why the oil pressure gauge doesn't work. The wire harness that connects to the oil pressure sender is missing. Do you guys know the part # so I can stop by the dealer and pick one up?

it is just spade connections. go to your local hardware store, pick 2 up, solder a wire in, and you should be good to go. they fall off, mine did
 
Hey, I noticed my boost gauge shows minimum level at idle, like -7. At around 4500 rpms the boost gets to 0. Is that normal?

nope, unless your car is not boosting under load. is it at 0 when you're on the throttle, if so, then something is not right. i suggest going out and getting an accurate boost gauge, a standard autometer will do fine.

your vacuum should be lower. check for boost leaks
 
on the boost gauge issue, i highly suggest just getting an autometer one. then if the problem still persists, do a boost leak test
 
If one clamp was off I would take the time to check all the other ones too. Boost leak and be a real pain in the butt.
 
Well, I'm having trouble again with the car staying in gear yet the shifter is in neutral. I'm likely headed to pull the tranny out and replace the infamous clutch fork/pivot ball. I did place a speed bleeder on the slave and bled the line with about 16 ounces of fluid used. I then bled the slave itself by opening the valve and pushing on the rod all the way into the slave. The car is still stuck in gear.
Can you guys take a look at my clutch fork? Is it centered, or off center?:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v424/norurb/eclipse/bootclosed.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v424/norurb/eclipse/bootopen.jpg

[Please follow our rules for pic size- maximum 700x700]
 
Does anybody know how much "play" there should be in the clutch fork? I mean I moved the slave cylinder out of the way, and can move the clutch fork in/out about 1/2 inch overall. Is that normal? Or does it mean I have a worn pivot ball?
 
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