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what do you take your stock head too??

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codeofdastreets

15+ Year Contributor
505
3
Sep 25, 2008
dunedin, Florida
Hey what's up guys just wanna get a thread started to find out what you are reving too..I basically have a stock head wit some comp cams and I'm taking it to 8000. I'm still making power after that but again its a stock head..I'm hear to find out how much power people have made wit a stock head.. Let's hear it
 
I took mine to 8500 with stock springs/ret and HKS 272s, and never had an issue. I think a stock head should be able to do 8k all day long.
 
To rev that high for some people is pointless, however i have heard of people reving to 8k. I say its pointless because the power band is at different places for each setup/turbo. I have fp2 cams and a evo3 16g and my power band ends around 6-6.5k, so i dont see a need to push it when it really wouldnt matter.
 
What are your modifications, I dont see any in your profile other than rims and a MBC.

Lol have to update that. 50trim turbo, ported exshust manifold,3 in downpipe to 3 in exshust,maft, 3in gm maf, comp cams 101/200,ross pistons, stock rods, 750 injectors,agx"s,dsmlink v3 fmic,38 mm tial wasgate,
 
I'm usually not the guy to encourage just shooting for high revs but this build surprised me a few times. My rev limiter was at 9500 for a while when i was first tuning it andf twice i hit 9500 RPM rev limiter (once on n20 once without)

Mind you though although it's a stock port and valve head, i do have DKS 264/272 cams degreed for top end and ahve BC Ti retainers and spring kit installed ( i guess that still is quasi-stock LOL )
 
Lol my rev limiter with my other ecu was 9250 nd I hit it once.. Bone stock head, just cams..I don"t recomend anyone to take a stock head past 9k.

happened to me 3 days ago shifting from 3rd to 4th i shifted to second by accident.. (driver error) yet it past so much the needle wanted to go 360 degrees LOL damn it..!!!
 
happened to me 3 days ago shifting from 3rd to 4th i shifted to second by accident.. (driver error) yet it past so much the needle wanted to go 360 degrees LOL damn it..!!!

Imagine what some one relatively high-po car experienced would think as they buckle in for a ride, then look over to the left and see the digits 10 through 15k RPM hand marked out on the tach LOL
 
Imagine what some one relatively high-po car experienced would think as they buckle in for a ride, then look over to the left and see the digits 10 through 15k RPM hand marked out on the tach LOL

HAHAHA LOL yea actually my homegirl was with me she was like OMG i thought we were gonna roll....!!!! LOL i gotta say sh!t happens
 
HAHAHA LOL yea actually my homegirl was with me she was like OMG i thought we were gonna roll....!!!! LOL i gotta say sh!t happens

maybe when the tach goes 360* it does the paul walker FWD spin out of control, kinda like the old cartoon "the boy who swung over the bars" (claymation thing where the kid swings all the way around and turns inside out LOL )
 
maybe when the tach goes 360* it does the paul walker FWD spin out of control, kinda like the old cartoon "the boy who swung over the bars" (claymation thing where the kid swings all the way around and turns inside out LOL )

LOL "paul walker FWD spin-out" That is great, you have no idea how hard I laughed at that! Just about every scene I can laugh at that movie its like watching a hilarious comedian! "probably got over $100,000 dollars under the hood of that car!" sorry, I couldnt resist!
 
Lol my rev limiter with my other ecu was 9250 nd I hit it once.. Bone stock head, just cams..I don"t recomend anyone to take a stock head past 9k.
I'd be willing to bet that there is a measurable amount of valve bounce and float beyond 9500 with a stock head + cams (especially if the cams have a healthy amount of lift and an aggressive ramp).

When I had a stock head, I wasn't exceeding 7500. But with a factory intake manifold and cams, I was losing power after 6K at 400 WHP. There's alot to factor in to determine when to shift. More RPM isn't always better, even though it's usually fun. ;)
 
I dont know where i will end up shifting to be honest. But than again the only thing stock will be the standard port. I have manley springs and ti retainers and i want a cam that will give me more top end.l I dont think my gst will like all that torque..LOL I would like to have a 8500-9000 rpm rev, but idk if the stock port will allow any gain that high in the rpm range?(2g head by the way)
 
I'd be willing to bet that there is a measurable amount of valve bounce and float beyond 9500 with a stock head + cams (especially if the cams have a healthy amount of lift and an aggressive ramp).

When I had a stock head, I wasn't exceeding 7500. But with a factory intake manifold and cams, I was losing power after 6K at 400 WHP. There's alot to factor in to determine when to shift. More RPM isn't always better, even though it's usually fun. ;)

Yeah I heared the valves start to float after like 9200 rpms..I'm shift at like 7800 because my limiter is 8000 but I was planning to bump limiter to 8250 so I can shift a steady 8k when I'm racing my car..
 
The best way to judge when to shift is as follows. Get the car in the lowest gear that it will hook up decently in (it can spin if it's say 2nd in a FWD, but first works in AWD that are under 400horses from my experiences) Lay into the throttle early and let the car lug and build boost before it starts through the rev range, and watch the tach carefully. Pay attention to how fast the tach moves up throught the revs and right aroiund 6k pay special attention to when the tach "slows down" (meaning the revs stop climbing as fast) That is where your power fell off and there or a couple hundred RPM after will be the best shift point...

For me it's like this and i actually just determined a new shift point when i changed some things recently... A couple years ago when i romped 2nd when the boost built the car would roast tires and the tach would scream up to about 7200 then slow down and rev further or sometimes just hover in the 7200 range untill the car caught up, but either way it moved slow after that, So 7200 RPM was my shift point. Now my car under the same test will rev to about 8500 and settle back to about 8300 while the chassis caatches up with the tires, so now i shift at 83-8500 RPM ( as read on the stock tach anyway)

I'm sure a lot of people use this as it's how i learned to judge shift points at a young age on dirtbikes and motorcycles... when the engine is laboring to gain any further RPM there's NO point in even bothering, you'll simply be faster if you just shift up into the next gear and get the car back into the range where it makes power

(just like drag racing on the old old school grand turismo (yea, PS ONE!!!) if you shifted the cars at redline you were slower than if you shifted at just the right time before redline (and this holds true in teh real world for any engine when racing, go to the track and give it a try) and it's also why some people with more money than smarts can't get their 350 horse car to cut a faster ET than their buddy's 275 HP car; because they are using the WHOLE tach because it's "cool" and the lower HP guy is shifting where the power is and accelerating faster overall
 
^^^+1 . . . IOW: Shift from peak horsepower into peak torque.

I use link estimates or an actual dyno graph. This means shifting at at different rpms out of each gear to get you close to the peak torque going to the next gear; since your gear ratios are not linearly progressive.
 
^^^+1 . . . IOW: Shift from peak horsepower into peak torque.

I use link estimates or an actual dyno graph. This means shifting at at different rpms out of each gear to get you close to the peak torque going to the next gear; since your gear ratios are not linearly progressive.

yea, in other words LOL but you know i have to make a book out of everything, send it off for defiant editing and then submit to the publishers before i can speak on a topic...where ole where has my beloved defiant gone too :( hope all is well with him though honestly
 
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