420a Reinforced Rebuild

[inxfernxo]

Currently have
- APC Intake & Filter
- header, OBX high flow cat, catback (all 2.5" & i know the header must go but it was free)


I plan on rebuilding my engine by the end of August. The car will be a daily driver but would love to have some fun with it on the weekends. So please let me know if any of this is Overkill for a daily driver / weekend warrior, or if i'm missing anything.

Part I:
SPEC Stage 3 modular Clutch
55mm TB / Intake porting
0.20 Piston Boring

Eagle Rods
Wiseco 10:5:1 0.20 Pistons
0.20 Head Gasket
Apexi AFC
MegaSquirt
310cc Injectors
High Flow Fuel pump
High Flow Oil pump


Part II:
Head Ported
Treadstone Turbo Package - 420a Turbo kit 95-99 Eclipse Talon - TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE
Missing Link
FCD
Boost Controller
OBX Air/Fuel Gauge
OBX Boost Gauge


I guess my goal is around 7-8psi street & 14psi fun

 

[BogusSVO]

drop the compression some for the turbo, you can run that boost on that compression if you can be a "super"tuner and run race gas all the time

 

[babyjoker]

I dont think you will need the AFC if you are running the Megasquirt, also you wouldnt need both a Missing Link and FCD, personally i would drop the ML and go with the FCD.

 

[inxfernxo]

drop the compression some for the turbo, you can run that boost on that compression if you can be a "super"tuner and run race gas all the time

So I should stick to the 8.8:1 0.20 Pistons then?

 

[bagged420a]

yes, because this is your daily driver.

 

[inxfernxo]

MegaSquirt or an AFC is needed when I bore out the engine? Or can that wait till later on?

 

[ToughTalon]

MegaSquirt or an AFC is needed when I bore out the engine? Or can that wait till later on?

That can wait untill you boost the engine. Honestly if you are only going to run 8psi, or mabey even 14psi, that engine build is a waste of money, you could do a good tune and run that boost on the factory engine if you are carefull. That will be a major build and it will get very expensive.

You are on the right path to making a very fast car but I think you should re-think your setup becuase you could save a lot of money and have a car run just as fast as what I am assuming your ultimate goal is. Im not trying to be rude but I just dont want to see you get in 'too deep' with this project for a car that will ultimately be a mid to low 13s machine. Lots of room to save cash.

 

[BogusSVO]

So I should stick to the 8.8:1 0.20 Pistons then?

thats is better, you may look into a thicker HG, like a MLS, to deop it a touch more, going with a .010 thicker HG, may get you down to 8.5.

But I am Old school, and still think lower compression and more boost.
My DD is Factory 8.0:1 and the engine I built for my truck is 7.52:1 static compression

 

[inxfernxo]

That can wait untill you boost the engine. Honestly if you are only going to run 8psi, or mabey even 14psi, that engine build is a waste of money, you could do a good tune and run that boost on the factory engine if you are carefull. That will be a major build and it will get very expensive.

You are on the right path to making a very fast car but I think you should re-think your setup becuase you could save a lot of money and have a car run just as fast as what I am assuming your ultimate goal is. Im not trying to be rude but I just dont want to see you get in 'too deep' with this project for a car that will ultimately be a mid to low 13s machine. Lots of room to save cash.

Thanks I really appreciate your input!!!

Also what would you keep to safely run 14psi? To me a little bit more money is worth not messing up the engine.

 

[inxfernxo]

Ok, well I guess since it's a daily driver and I've been told reinforcing the internals is a waste for 14psi I'll stick to the following @ 8psi

Part I:
SPEC Stage 3 modular Clutch

55mm TB / Intake porting
0.20 Piston Boring

Stock Rods
Stock Pistons w/ 0.20 Rings
0.20 Head Gasket

* Would Head Studs & Main studs be worth it? or not for 8psi?


Part II:
* Apexi AFC - or is MegaSquirt really worth it?
310cc Injectors
High Flow Fuel pump
High Flow Oil pump


Part III:
Head Porting Stage 2
Treadstone Turbo Package
FCD
OBX Air/Fuel Gauge
OBX Boost Gauge


Like stated earlier if I'm missing something or if anything is over kill please let me know.

Thanks

 

[BogusSVO]

the head studs would be a good step, yes its over kill, but its on a strength issue.

you still may consider the froged parts, yes for what your talking about, 14psi they are overkill, but they will be there for when your board and want to go to 20psi then 25psi then on to 30

I found 14psi fun for about 3 to 6 months then wanted more....

 

[inxfernxo]

the head studs would be a good step, yes its over kill, but its on a strength issue.

you still may consider the froged parts, yes for what your talking about, 14psi they are overkill, but they will be there for when your board and want to go to 20psi then 25psi then on to 30

I found 14psi fun for about 3 to 6 months then wanted more....

Sounds pretty Sweet, and now for a Super N00b question.... if I am running 20-25psi what is the minimum I can run with a boost controller? Or do I need to change the Wastegate Spring during the week to cut down to 8-10psi for driving in traffic?

Sorry if its a stupid question but I've only begun to do most of my research last month.

 

[BogusSVO]

Sounds pretty Sweet, and now for a Super N00b question.... if I am running 20-25psi what is the minimum I can run with a boost controller? Or do I need to change the Wastegate Spring during the week to cut down to 8-10psi for driving in traffic?

Sorry if its a stupid question but I've only begun to do most of my research last month.

you may want to ask someone that knows the DSM WG better than I, BUT on the factory WG I have on my car/truck, I can adjust the boost with the Manual Boost controler as low as 7psi or as high as 24psi (the turbo is maxed at that point)

So what I know, is the MBC, is a measured orface that can restrict the boost going to the WG, to delay the WG opening, giving Higher boost levels.

so with this being true, the inverse would be true also, oping the MBC, will allow the WG sooner giving the lower level.

 

[inxfernxo]

you may want to ask someone that knows the DSM WG better than I, BUT on the factory WG I have on my car/truck, I can adjust the boost with the Manual Boost controler as low as 7psi or as high as 24psi (the turbo is maxed at that point)

So what I know, is the MBC, is a measured orface that can restrict the boost going to the WG, to delay the WG opening, giving Higher boost levels.

so with this being true, the inverse would be true also, oping the MBC, will allow the WG sooner giving the lower level.

Thanks buddy you have been a huge help!

 

[BogusSVO]

Thanks buddy you have been a huge help!

No Prob... Glad I could!

Happy wrenching!!

 

[inxfernxo]

Hate to be bringing this post back up again but I am getting ready to do my Engine rebuild and I wanted to run the specs through all you guys 1st.

My goal is NA after rebuild for 6 months, throw in the Fuel System 2 months before boosting 5psi, then running it a couple months and turning it up to 8psi.


Part I: Tranny
SPEC S2 Modular Clutch & Tranny Rebuild (being taken care of next monday)


Part II: Engine Rebuild (reinforce gasket & Head studs)
Rods - Stock
Pistons - Stock
Oil Pump - Melling High Flow - $135.00
Rod Bearings - Topline STD - $35.00
Main Bearings - Topline STD - $50.00
Water Pump - OEM - $50
Timing Belt & Bearings - $125.00
Head Studs - ARP - $110.00 (Future Turbo)
Main Studs - Stock
Head Gasket - Cosmetic - $90.00 (Future Turbo)
Top/Bottom Gasket Kit- $165.00
UD Pulley - Unorthodox - $200.00 (Already got the belts)

55mm TB / Intake Matching
Head Port & Polish (Shop is a friend agreed to $200 machining)


Part III Fuel Delivery
FMU - $90 (12:1 ???)
450cc/560cc Injectors - $100 (4g63 or Evo 9)
Fuel Pump - 255l High Pressure - $100


Should I run 450cc or 560cc with an 8psi max Build?