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90' GSX clutch dragging/tranny grinding issues. Need advice.

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jamesfoster

15+ Year Contributor
61
0
Nov 3, 2007
Moreno Valley, California
I have a 1990 GSX, with a TRE built transmission, new clutch master and slave cylinders, and an act 2600 clutch. When the car is cold, clutch works pretty decent and shifting isn't too bad.
However once the car is warm, even with the clutch pedal smashed to the floor, it still drags in first gear. I've considered getting a clutch extension rod but I'm not sure. any ideas?
-james
 
i would ask TRE about it. since they built the tranny they would have a good idea of the problems that could arise.
 
I'll bleed the system when I get home and if it's still dragging I'm putting in the extension rod. I'm sick of it grinding and dragging. I also forgot to mention I have ss braided clutch line too.
 
Clutch extension rod is a bandaid for underlying problems, not to mention it will put extra stress on everything from your hydraulic system to your shift fork.

Are you sure there is no air in the system? Have you tried to bleed or adjust? Is it hard to put it into gear or take it out? First gear only? For more detailed help, please also give us a detailed description of how you are bleeding.
 
Worn Clutch assembly is most likely the problem. Fix that and your problems will most likely be gone.

By the way you town is AKA G-Vegas. Get it right.ROFL
 
Clutch extension rod is a bandaid for underlying problems, not to mention it will put extra stress on everything from your hydraulic system to your shift fork.

Are you sure there is no air in the system? Have you tried to bleed or adjust? Is it hard to put it into gear or take it out? First gear only? For more detailed help, please also give us a detailed description of how you are bleeding.

It's difficult to put into gear and take out in first and reverse, once the car is warm. When it's cold it's not as hard, but it's still not as easy as it should be. On 1gs there's no adjustment rod on the clutch. I'm not sure but I don't think there's any air in the system, but I will bleed it to make sure. I haven't bled it yet, but I will soon.

the way I was going to bleed it is the same way I would bleed brakes correct? Have someone in the car to push the clutch pedal in for me, loosen the bleeder nut, have them push the pedal to the floor and hold it, tighten the nut, then have them release and repeat that process until it's a solid stream of fluid with no bubbles. Is that the correct way to bleed the system?

thanks,
-James
 
Worn Clutch assembly is most likely the problem. Fix that and your problems will most likely be gone.

By the way you town is AKA G-Vegas. Get it right.ROFL

haha, I HATE that name, there is not one single similarity between vegas and greenville. The only people calling greenville G-vegas are people who have never been to vegas..;)
 
the way I was going to bleed it is the same way I would bleed brakes correct? Have someone in the car to push the clutch pedal in for me, loosen the bleeder nut, have them push the pedal to the floor and hold it, tighten the nut, then have them release and repeat that process until it's a solid stream of fluid with no bubbles. Is that the correct way to bleed the system?

Pedal down first, then open and close bleeder nut, pull pedal up, pump 10 times, repeat. Attach a hose to the slave nipple and submerge in a container with a small amount of clutch fluid, since bleeding has the tendency to suck air back in. As an added benefit, it will show you bubbles more clearly.
 
Pedal down first, then open and close bleeder nut, pull pedal up, pump 10 times, repeat. Attach a hose to the slave nippler and submerge in a container with a small amount of clutch fluid, since bleeding has the tendency to suck air back in. As an added benefit, it will show you bubbles more clearly.

Ok I will do that. Thank you. And I was going to attach a hose also I've done that before with brakes.
 
Oh and by worn clutch assembly do you mean replace the whole damn clutch?

No what I am refering to is the assembly that is inside your car. I just replaced mine this past weekend and it made a world of difference. Some people weld them but I chose to spend $80 and replace all the worn parts. It takes a weekend to do and is not really hard just aggrivating trying to work on because you have to take alot of things apart on the dash. Ill post when I get to the house a link to the thread that helped me alot.

By the way been both places and correct they are not the same but thats the name us locals always refered to it by.
 
No what I am refering to is the assembly that is inside your car. I just replaced mine this past weekend and it made a world of difference. Some people weld them but I chose to spend $80 and replace all the worn parts. It takes a weekend to do and is not really hard just aggrivating trying to work on because you have to take alot of things apart on the dash. Ill post when I get to the house a link to the thread that helped me alot.

By the way been both places and correct they are not the same but thats the name us locals always refered to it by.

Oh ok you mean the clutch pedal assembly. I never even though of that I'd definitely like to do that.
 
Here is the thread I used and it was a big help http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/196048-any-1g-clutch-pedal-pic-requests.html

I have recently been dealing with the very same thing. I am pretty close to having things working smoothly.

Another thing you can do to check and see if it is really dragging is to park on flat ground, put it in first then free rev it. If you start creeping forward then it is dragging. Key is flat ground and in no way am I telling you to blow your motor if it can't handle a test like this.

Good luck
 
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