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Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 04-13-2008, 07:23 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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Battery in the trunk where should i ground it ?


ok i got a taylor battery box and i had 4 gauge wire from the trunk to the battery when it was up front for my amps. so i mounted the battery box in the trunk used the 4 guage wire for my power that i already had. I used the sturt mount in the trunk for a ground. Now i have a problem the car doesnt like to start or if it will it really weak untill it does start. I know its the ground. is there a better place to ground? i was thinking of drill into the sheet metal and go trew that into the frame is that a good idea or no ? now that any input would be great

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Old 04-13-2008, 07:29 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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If youre having that much of an issue because of it, you probably need to run the ground all the way up to the block and ground it by the starter.

I ran a 2 AWG from the block to the fuel pump area ground, then to a ground a foot from the battery, then connected it to the battery.


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Old 04-13-2008, 08:07 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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you need to ground as close to the battery as possible. the ground lead doesn't need to be any longer than 18-24". all you need to do is drill a hole through the sheetmetal in the floor, and bolt the ground lead down with flat washers on both sides of the bolt. you could also use a lock nut, like an ultra ss lock nut so you dont have to worry about it working loose. your ground needs to be the same diameter or larger than you power lead. also, it would be a really bad idea to run the ground a long way to the front of the car for the fact that the longer the ground the less effective it is. it creates less resistance for every foot longer it is. make sure you take a grinder or emery cloth and take all of the paint off in a 1 or 2" area around the spot you're gonna drill the hole for the ground.

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Old 04-13-2008, 08:16 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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i grounded mine on the strut tower and never had any problems but maby do a load test on your battery see if it's still good
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:11 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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battery is good because when i put the charger on it was almost a full charge this only started when i put the battery in the trunk hrmm
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:58 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Try scraping the paint off to get a better contact.

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Old 04-14-2008, 06:33 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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yeah i did that not so great....
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super97gst View Post
you need to ground as close to the battery as possible. the ground lead doesn't need to be any longer than 18-24". all you need to do is drill a hole through the sheetmetal in the floor, and bolt the ground lead down with flat washers on both sides of the bolt. you could also use a lock nut, like an ultra ss lock nut so you dont have to worry about it working loose. your ground needs to be the same diameter or larger than you power lead. also, it would be a really bad idea to run the ground a long way to the front of the car for the fact that the longer the ground the less effective it is. it creates less resistance for every foot longer it is. make sure you take a grinder or emery cloth and take all of the paint off in a 1 or 2" area around the spot you're gonna drill the hole for the ground.
I dont think I was descriptive enough.

I have 3 major grounds throughout the car, soon to be 4 (one by the ECU).

I have a lead from the battery then bolted to the frame. (Main battery ground - about 12" long) Then I ran a lead from that same ground up to the passenger side by the fuel pump. Then I ran the last lead from that same spot on the passenger side up to the engine bay and bolted it to the block. It essentially connects all the grounds from the block to the battery.


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Old 04-14-2008, 04:51 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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The 1g has child seat harness mounting locations in the trunk that go through the frame. This is the perfect location to use as a ground.
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:16 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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sweet ill try that my luck went from bad to worse today
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:06 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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ground it to the block, and from the block to the chassis at the front, you can ground it in the rear also.

Our unibody's are not good conductors, its beyond me why people just run the ground to the sheetmetal in the rear.

Proper electrical is so important, your not wiring up a trailer hitch, your wiring up a complex EMS system.

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Old 04-15-2008, 06:33 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Grounding your car to the chassis works perfectly fine a lot of people. I just grounded mines on one of the trunk latch bolts. Im running 2gauge also.

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Old 04-15-2008, 09:33 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92awddsm View Post
The 1g has child seat harness mounting locations in the trunk that go through the frame. This is the perfect location to use as a ground.
I also grounded mine in the same place and have had no problems

first pic is of a breaker box that is for the + side going to the starter and to battery

And the second pic is where i have my ground
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Old 04-15-2008, 05:18 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by absolute_DSM View Post
I dont think I was descriptive enough.

I have 3 major grounds throughout the car, soon to be 4 (one by the ECU).

I have a lead from the battery then bolted to the frame. (Main battery ground - about 12" long) Then I ran a lead from that same ground up to the passenger side by the fuel pump. Then I ran the last lead from that same spot on the passenger side up to the engine bay and bolted it to the block. It essentially connects all the grounds from the block to the battery.
that sounds like an excellent grounding setup. i thought you were saying you just ran your ground all the way back to the front. that would be bad.

btw, as for grounding through the sheetmetal in the rear. it was stated above that shouldn't be done, the electrical system is too sensitive. i worked at a car audio shop for a couple of years while i was in college and we did a lot of battery relocations for people wanting a second battery mainly. anyways, i always installed the ground cable through the rear floor, into the sheetmetal. as many of them as i did i never had one complaint later. those systems must have been a little less sensitive. i just always found that was the easiest and a very effective way of grounding a battery in the rear of a car.

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Old 04-15-2008, 05:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super97gst View Post
that sounds like an excellent grounding setup. i thought you were saying you just ran your ground all the way back to the front. that would be bad.

btw, as for grounding through the sheetmetal in the rear. it was stated above that shouldn't be done, the electrical system is too sensitive. i worked at a car audio shop for a couple of years while i was in college and we did a lot of battery relocations for people wanting a second battery mainly. anyways, i always installed the ground cable through the rear floor, into the sheetmetal. as many of them as i did i never had one complaint later. those systems must have been a little less sensitive. i just always found that was the easiest and a very effective way of grounding a battery in the rear of a car.
That is the reason for grounding at the child seat bracket mount. This is actually into the subframe and not just the sheet metal. As long as mine has been grounded this way(3-4yrs), I have never had a glitch, issue, or slow starts.


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Old 04-15-2008, 06:49 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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That is the reason for grounding at the child seat bracket mount. This is actually into the subframe and not just the sheet metal. As long as mine has been grounded this way(3-4yrs), I have never had a glitch, issue, or slow starts.
i agree 100%, that would be an excellent spot to ground in a 1G. but a 2G doesn't have that option. and if you stretch all the way to the strut tower in a 2G you're stretching too many feet to be ideal.

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Old 04-15-2008, 06:51 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super97gst View Post
i agree 100%, that would be an excellent spot to ground in a 1G. but a 2G doesn't have that option. and if you stretch all the way to the strut tower in a 2G you're stretching too many feet to be ideal.
Sorry, my bad. I forgot, 1g vs 2g.


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