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Are you the wisest of the wise? ... cause i am not

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BIGMIXX

15+ Year Contributor
103
0
Jan 14, 2008
Grand Rapids, Michigan
first said thanks for check my thread... your wisdom is greatly appreciated! :)

here's the dilemma that i face.. i have purchased a 92 talon tsi AWD 4g63 w/ a 5 sp. i got it from a friend cheap.. couldn't pass it up for $600. it's a steal.. trust me .. i'll get pics quickly.

the problem is it doesn't run .. it is missing the turbo, exhaust manifold, airfilter housing, the tube that goes from air filter to turbo, and the intake tubing, other than that it is missing the shifter... wtf.. dunno. other than that it is complete.

i was told by my friend, who is M.I.A for the last several months, trust him, just not around to help me out like he said he would, sooooooooo i am desperate to get it going and need your help.

i was told the car "blew a turbo". ( odom- 142518). have no clue how long it has been sitting. it's in fabulous shape .. just needs some tlc. but with an issue like this .. do i have to rebuild the motor? .. turbo blew .. im thinking... maybe pieces went into the motor?? should i have it rebuilt? am looking to rebuild the whole thing but i am thinking .. just do the engine bay..( bushings and paint) while the motor is out . get the motor in, and running. would like it to be a daily driver, push 350-400 horse .. if that's possible.

what would you do in this situation, to be the wisest route ... where im not back tracking toooo much. on a lil bit of a tight pocketbook , but still have a couple hundred a month i can put into this .... have to get this bad boy running.. better than buying something new .. who would want anything but a dsm anyways... geeesh:p

any advice would be sooooo appreciated, let me know if i left any helpful info out. sorry so long.


thanks a million-
Aaron:talon:
 
Just because the turbo blew doesn't mean the engine is bad.

BUT....a bad engine that is getting ready to scatter WILL make the turbo blow (by clogging the turbos internals with metal chunks via the oil supply.)

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Yea I agree^^ You need to get it running if you can find a used turbo or buy one that you want already and do a compression test and a leak down test.. the 14b is cheap and can put down some good numbers if youre on that tight of a budget..

You need to go take a field trip to the junkyard for a day and grab everything you need..
 
wow.. amazingly quick .. you guys should start a delivery service .. thanks for the quick responses... i am a towtruck driver and have a small bundle of parts already.. just not the important ones .. thinking i should buy those new.. i.e. the turbo and what not ... but i am thinking that it's gonna need a rebuild first..

is this a realistic budget to have for this kind of project? motor rebuilds cost what on the average for the 4g63? uh oh .. not gonna be parts for this anymore by the time i can afford it :D
 
I agree with the junk yard BUT dsm's are rare and the junk yards know the values by now. What you should do is get a manifold (btw i have a 2g exhaust manifold for sale in a really good shape if you want it..let me know) get a 14b and start putting those little things together. All this should not cost you more than $300-350. Once you get the car running check the compression on each piston and see how they are doing. 142,xxx miles on the stock engine seems a lot considering that your friend beat the shit out of it, but this engines are bullet proof. In other words put a turbo on it and get it running so we can help you with the rest Good luck
 
You could do an entire engine rebuild, but if you only have a couple hundred a month to put in you would be out the car for a while. The other thing you could do is replace all the missing parts with used pieces from a junkyard...and use all new gaskets...for a cheaper option and save up your money for while and in the mean time you could see how the engine runs stock.

Once you have enough money saved up you could do an entire engine build the way you want it. But that way you can also see if the engine is any good now without putting too much money in it. But I would also make sure you do all the basic maintenance; oil change, coolant flush, new filters, etc if you don't rebuild now. And if you don't rebuild you should deffinetly do a compression check. Thats just my .02
 
Yep get it running first and junkyard crap is cheap, around these parts at least... but get all your shit together and get it running unless you wanna tear the motor apart now and see if you can find anything wrong with it, I wouldnt recommend all that trouble unless youre ready to rebuild it. I would try to get it running and see if its good

Oh and mine has 188,200 and running like a champ... keep on top of your maintenace and dont be a jackass like the guy you bought it from...
 
ok i have a stock turbo for a 92 ply. laser.. the exhaust manifolds that i find always have the crack in them .. aftermarket ex manifolds will bolt up to the stock turbo's as well? and then later swap the turbo.. is that possible? ...


sorry i know i have NEWBIE written all over me .. LOLo! :D i have so many questions.... but ok back to the research .. will check back later ... thanks a million for all the great replies!! :)
 
Nah not 6000, maybe 3000 to 4000 or cheaper, the stock internals can take 300hp easily and stock internals are cheap... then you need a turbo fuel and tuning device I say 3000 at the most..
 
ok i have a stock turbo for a 92 ply. laser.. the exhaust manifolds that i find always have the crack in them .. aftermarket ex manifolds will bolt up to the stock turbo's as well? and then later swap the turbo.. is that possible? ...


sorry i know i have NEWBIE written all over me .. LOLo! :D i have so many questions.... but ok back to the research .. will check back later ... thanks a million for all the great replies!! :)

You can run the manifolds with cracks in them to get the car running and see if the engine is good, when you buy a manifold make sure its for a mitsubishi turbo and not a T3/T4 or any other kind and it will bolt up.. but you can pick up a used 2g mani with no cracks for cheap, look in the classifieds..

He should be able to compression test it even without a turbo correct?

Oh that is right!! I had in my mind that he was trying to get the car running... Yea just needs to crankover..
 
Oh that is right!! I had in my mind that he was trying to get the car running... Yea just needs to crankover..

What numbers does he need to be looking for? I forget on 6bolts because of the compression.. isn't it around 140-150? I know on 7bolts its like 170.

I should probably figure that out since I'm building a 6.. ROFL
 
It sounds like your going to go over the entire car and make a complete list of the parts you need.
From your first post I'm guessing your friend had a FMIC and maybe a MAF translator that was removed. That is why all the pipes and ducting are missing. Again going from your original post I'd say you need the followingjust to get her running:

14b: try ebay
manifold: search ebay for a 2g manifold.
BOV: ebay always has stock ones for sale.
1g or 2g maf. Since your wanting more power I'd go with a 2g unit and wire it in. The vfaq has the how-to so check it out.
A stock SMIC and stock ducting or a front mount with aftermarket pipes and a j-pipe
Misc. gaskets anf maybe some brackets if your use the stock parts


I have some stuff like a stock SMIC or some ducting laying around as well as a few other parts. PM if I can help any once you've got your list.
 
Nah not 6000, maybe 3000 to 4000 or cheaper, the stock internals can take 300hp easily and stock internals are cheap... then you need a turbo fuel and tuning device I say 3000 at the most..

Yeah but he said 350-400 and you know we always have to have more so 400 HP you need machine work, forged internals, intake mani, exhaust mani, tuning equipt, fuel system, gauges, turbo, full exhaust system, new brakes probably, upgraded tranny etc. Anything less than $6000 for 400HP is not going to be very reliable.
 
our motors can handle about 400-500. Without any major issues, just need the right turbo, also a fuel system, and someone who knows how to tune. Pretty much the jist of it. Our motors are pretty strong. Weakest link is usally the tranny.
 
Pull your oilpan and see if there are any chunks of metal in there. Do a compression test too. If all goes well, you might have gotten lucky. Majority of the parts you could probably find on ebay like the intake pipe. You could try the manifolds as well if you want. It's all about luck on this part. Some stay strong, some crack like that. If you want you could go for a knockoff turbo as well. Search up ebay and there has been some good reviews on them. It'll save you tons of money.
 
Before you think about hitting the 300hp mark....think about hitting the "get it back up and running" mark.
 
Before you think about hitting the 300hp mark....think about hitting the "get it back up and running" mark.

LOL... very true .. was thinking about that ... and with all the excellent replies that i have recieved... thanks btw. I believe that i am going to do the leak down test , to get an idea of the condition, being that it has soo many miles i think that is where i should go and see what i find out .. then if it seems ok .. drop the pan and see if looks like christmas in there.. yikes i hope not .. let you know what i find out .
 
Just so you know...

It's possible that if it hasn't been running in quite a while, the compression test and leak-down test might not tell you much about the true condition of the motor.

Besides the things they won't tell you (like the condition of the water pump, oil pump, lifters, timing belt, etc.), the opposite can also happen. You could have some problems that seem more serious than they are due to it sitting for a while, that could work themselves out in a few minutes of running.

Also:

Lifters are notorious for causing problems such as phantom knock, and should be replaced with the "3G" versions. At the very least, they should be cleaned and inspected after sitting for a while, to avoid the possibly of bending valves when you get it cranking again.

Another issue to watch out for is gaskets and seals. They sometimes have a tendency to go south after sitting for a while and drying out.

Just thought I should point that out ;)
 
very true, those are the things that would have me biting my nails... i am honestly on the road to coming to the realization that rebuild is the way to go .. have to do lots to check it out anyways..

anyone know of any one close to southwest michigan that knows how to rebuild these motors?
on a piched budget but have a few $$ chillin out right now.... thanks to uncle sam :p
 
well thank you i'll have to check that out.. pretty cool site there?

pics will be up soon .. promise
 
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