timing belt tension problem

[linksys42]

Was wondering if the method below is a safe method to set the tension on a 2g per the method in the 1st gen timing belt replacement VFAQ? Does anyone else with 2g's set the tension like this? Because I am having a hell of a time getting the tension correct per the 2g VFAQ. When I align up all the marks and Rotate the tensioner pulley in a counterclockwise direction until the belt is taut and tighten the center bolt finger tight then I release the pin from the hydraulic tentioner then rotate the tentioner pulley so the pin holes are below the bolt and then tighten the bolt to spec then there is a good amount of slack in the belt and I don't want to rotate the engine like that? Even if I did rotate the engine then loosen the tentioner pull again to use the special tensioner tool and a torque wrench to apply2.6 ft-lbs the gap .15-.18" isn't going to be correct in between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body. If anyone could give me some pointer it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

1st gen VFAQ

" Here is how I set the tension whether I am using a new tensioner or not:

I do not use an Allen wrench on the tensioner as noted previously, I just let the tensioner expand all the way

Once the belt is installed, I place a .150" drillbit (or the nearest larger size I have) on the top of the tensioner body, and screw in the tensioner tool until it captures the drillbit between the tensioner body and tensioner pulley bracket. When the bracket is close to the drillbit, I start spinning the drillbit, and stop screwing in the tool as soon as the bracket stops it from spinning. In other words, I stop when the pulley bracket is just snug against the bit.

I place a flatblade screwdriver between the engine and tensioner pulley, and lightly pry up on the pulley

I torque the pulley down

I back off the tensioner tool several turns, and immediately check the tensioner gap - if it has gotten too small or too large right away, I redo the steps above, changing the pressure used on the screwdriver. If the gap looks OK, I spin the engine 6 turns and wait 15 minutes and check the gap again.

There are other ways to do this, but this works best for me "

 

[jeking]

Maybe I'm wrong but it makes sense to me, I used feeler Gauges to do basicaly the same thing. The drill bit method sounds easier.

 

[luv2rallye]

Prying against the tensioner pulley may put nicks in it - bad idea.

From http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214625:
Sometimes measuring the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (usually with a drill bit) is hard to see or do. Example: Can't get in there or see if drill bit is truly parallel to the tensioner top (which affects measurement) or you can’t get a 2.6 ft-lb torque wrench on the tensioner pulley special tool #MLR-MD-998767. You can replace all that complicated tensioning torque stuff (which you can rarely get right with the engine in the car anyway - no room) with the following alternative. Just adjust the tensioner pulley so that the auto tensioner holding pin (eg. 1/16” allen wrench) moves freely all the way through the auto tensioner body and pin holes (after you turn the crankshaft and wait for the belt to stretch and auto tensioner to settle). Adjust the tensioner pulley to do this and it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (drill bit measurement) be about .157 in. (spec is .150 - .177 in.). I've done over a dozen dsm timing belts this way every one done correctly.

 

[linksys42]

Prying against the tensioner pulley may put nicks in it - bad idea.

From http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214625:
Sometimes measuring the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (usually with a drill bit) is hard to see or do. Example: Can't get in there or see if drill bit is truly parallel to the tensioner top (which affects measurement) or you can’t get a 2.6 ft-lb torque wrench on the tensioner pulley special tool #MLR-MD-998767. You can replace all that complicated tensioning torque stuff (which you can rarely get right with the engine in the car anyway - no room) with the following alternative. Just adjust the tensioner pulley so that the auto tensioner holding pin (eg. 1/16” allen wrench) moves freely all the way through the auto tensioner body and pin holes (after you turn the crankshaft and wait for the belt to stretch and auto tensioner to settle). Adjust the tensioner pulley to do this and it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (drill bit measurement) be about .157 in. (spec is .150 - .177 in.). I've done over a dozen dsm timing belts this way every one done correctly.

So what your saying is to use the miller threaded rod tool to compress the hydraulic tensioner to the point that you can move the 1/16” allen wrench thru the auto tensioner body and pin holes, then while the allen wrench is able to move freely thru the body of the auto tensioner and pin holes I should use my miller two pin tool to put tension on the belt by rotating the tensioner pulley till its taught then torque it down to spec. Then pull the pin and release the miller tensioning rod tool and let it sit for 15min (till the tensioning rod settles), check the gap, and then manually turn the engine over till everything lines back up check the gap and timing marks again. Did I understand you correctly? I just want to make sure I have it 100% correct. The reason I am redoing the timing is because the exhaust cam was retarded about ½ tooth and the gap between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body was way out of spec. I am just reusing the belt and auto tensioner, do you think that will be a problem? The belts, pulleys and tensioner only have about 35,000 miles on them. I still plan to replace them at 55,000. Since the belt has all ready been in use/stretched a bit should I compensate for this or still make sure that the gap is within spec? Thanks for all your help luv2rallye!!!! It’s very much appreciated!

 

[steve]

Don't pull the pin until your sure it's done.
So after waiting 15 mins the pin should still move freely. If it doesn't your not done. (you actually might be done since the spec has more tolerance than the pin allows but it the pin still moves freely your in spec)

 

[BUCK]

[QUOTE linksys42) Was wondering if the method below is a safe method to set the tension on a 2g per the method in the 1st gen timing belt replacement VFAQ? Does anyone else with 2g's set the tension like this? Because I am having a hell of a time getting the tension correct per the 2g VFAQ. When I align up all the marks and Rotate the tensioner pulley in a counterclockwise direction until the belt is taut and tighten the center bolt finger tight then I release the pin from the hydraulic tentioner then rotate the tentioner pulley so the pin holes are below the bolt and then tighten the bolt to spec then there is a good amount of slack in the belt and I don't want to rotate the engine like that? Even if I did rotate the engine then loosen the tentioner pull again to use the special tensioner tool and a torque wrench to apply2.6 ft-lbs the gap .15-.18" isn't going to be correct in between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body. If anyone could give me some pointer it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks (UNQUOTE)

You aren't geting enough pre-load on the T/Belt to begin with because there's nothing LIGHT about levering that Tensioner Pulley - & IMO the FLAT of a Screwdriver aint dinging no Pulley - I started off with the same 1G VFAQ & kinda lived & learned thru it - If you REALLY want to get confused on this subject just read the damn DSM Manual as translated from Japanese by some REAL dumbass who never touched a wrench in their LIFE - PERSONALLY I think you are NUTS not to change that 35K T/Belt once you have all that crap out of the way, especially on a 2G - Here's a good recent Thread on this with a step by step & Good Luck ~!


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270452&highlight=allthread