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My 1G awd build, help me out a little

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Bmxr152

15+ Year Contributor
579
2
May 27, 2006
Gardnerville, Nevada
Ok so i decided not to get a running fwd and for the same price i got a blow motor 1Ga awd with only 90k on the clock. So heres what im thinking of so far. Reminder this is going to be a stock appearing drag car, and most likely sticking with the 14b for a few months.

Full rebuild including... Sock 1g pistons and rings, BS elim, T-belt, ACL Tri-metal main and rod bearings, Full gasket set, MLS head gasket, ARP head studs

Head... DIY port and polish, 3g lifter, cams (dont know yet)

Port and polish exh. manifold and turbo, turbo-back,K&N filter, MBC and boost gauge, Hack Maf, interior stripping, Datalogger, all fluids changed, fuel pump re-wire, possibly FMIC

Thats what im thinking about so far. keep in mind this is a budget buildup since im a student and i also have a DD cobra that will need work and tons of gas.LOL
 
Consider going with the 2.3L stroker rebuild, if you're having to rebuild it anyway. It'll help tremendously with turbo spool time, and give you extra torque, which'll come in VERY handy given the amount of drivetrain loss us AWD guys suffer. You'll get better 60' times too. The rest of the longblock build looks okay, though you shouldn't need cams at an early stage like what you're describing... the stock 2G cams are pretty restrictive, but 1G turbo cams are at least decent. If you can afford it, forged internals are the way to go, for peace-of-mind.

A FMIC will help a lot, as will the turboback exhaust. I'd suggest Punishment Racing for a relatively cheap 1G FMIC kit, and Megan Racing for one of the freest flowing exhausts on the market. If you have to, delay these (probably $1200-1500 worth of parts) to get the engine build done right. It's far more costly to go back and re-build the engine, than it is to just wait until you can afford better bolt-on parts.

Get the boost gauge in and connected first. Be aware that porting/polishing the exhaust housing on your turbo can either be done to increase flow (which will also increase the likelihood of creep, especially with a good turboback exhaust), or to provide a reliable boost level (porting to make the wastegate passage smoother, but you won't hit your desired boost level quite as fast).

Personally, I'd recommend against hacking the MAS. You lose a lot of power under the curve, by comparison to what you gain. You'll also find it harder to tune down the line with a hacked MAS, once you get a fuel tuning solution in the car. If you decide to do so anyway, ONLY remove the LOWER honeycomb. This only works for 1G MAS... you should never hack a 2G MAS, they flow enough on their own to make it unneccessary, and it'll just cause drivability and idling problems.



Having gone through it myself (and made the mistakes already), I'd recommend doing the 2.3L stroker build with forged internals, stick with stock 1G turbo cams, MHI MLS HG, port and polish the head as you like (so long as the manifolds are port-matched), drop a few bucks on a 2G exhaust manifold and O2 housing, pick up a used Big 16G or E3-16G on the cheap (get it rebuilt if neccessary) and go from there.
A K&N really isn't going to add much of anything for you, the flow difference between K&N and a paper filter is much more minimal than most seem to think it is... the only thing you really get is reusability, if you buy their cleaner solution.


And buy a crappy Honda or something as a DD. No wonder you're out of money, feeding a Cobra just to get you to school and back. :b
 
Theirs no way i can afford to do a forged storker build, if i could i would though! Another member on here is running pretty much the same rebuild i want to with hhis PTE 50 trim and is pushin 30psi and making around 450whp and has put 5k miles like that on his frshly rebuilt motor.
 
Wait on other parts for a while, if the money just isn't there. Building a good foundation is the most important part... even if you have to wait a little while to see it through to completion. Holding off on the turboback and FMIC alone should save you enough cash to do the stroker build instead.
 
Well the thing is it comes with a apexi catback which should be enough for the 14b. What got what i said in the 1st post and then bought an eagle 2.3 crank or something. Would it just bolt up or would i have to get other supporting hardware?
 
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