various symptoms one dsm. help me out fellas

[burnnxs]

mods on profile.
i have a couple of questions

a small piece of the black coating rubbed off the cometic head gasket im using. would that be enough to loose compression thru ?

this "dohc key's" are they all universal ? do they work for dsm's?

the car stalls from high rev isnt that a sign of timing issues ?

what test can i do to make sure that it is a blown hg before tearing all apart?
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last time i did my t belt i used a dohc "key" I borrowed from a friend

i cant boost pass 20psi right now, have no leaks and up to 30psi boost leak test has been done.

the car stalls from high rev.

i see 10 dg at idle on the logger and the idle bumps
fuel trims : low103 mid100 high103 ---o2 volts at idle is 78

the bottom tb is blocked so there is no isc or fiav

i think i have a blown head gasket along with ^^^top^^^ symptoms
before i retorked the head i saw one white puff of smoke

retorqued the head after the arp head studs at 1500miles ( I know it was supposed to be done at 500miles but I kept putting away) 106ft lb

vacuum at idle is 17hg at 900 rpm

i did a dry compression test it showed from left to right 145 145 110 145 this with a open throttle, warm engine

what leads me to think this is the -boiling coolant reservoir after drives boosting and the 2nd pitons low compression, btw I have a new radiator cap and a reused cometic head gasket
note:I remember a small piece of the black top layer of the gasket rubbed off when I touched it didn't think it would matter at the time (stupidity at best)

thanxs in advance

 

[burnnxs]

is this not easy to understand ?
am i not making any sense ?

 

[mkgearhead]

Do A leakdown test and see where you're losing compression in that cylinder before you start tearing into it. As far as reusing the head gasket, I always use a new one. I have no idea what you're talking about as far as a DOHC "key", so I can't help you there. I hope this helps a little.

 

[burnnxs]

Do A leakdown test and see where you're losing compression in that cylinder before you start tearing into it. As far as reusing the head gasket, I always use a new one. I have no idea what you're talking about as far as a DOHC "key", so I can't help you there. I hope this helps a little.

i ment camshaft lock "key"

 

[burnnxs]

anybody else ?

 

[burnnxs]

COME ON PEOPLE nodody wants to even talk smack ? whats going on where all my dsmers , tell me something else

 

[delta448]

dsm: mods on profile.
i have a couple of questions

a small piece of the black coating rubbed off the cometic head gasket im using. would that be enough to loose compression thru ?

Your compression numbers still look good enough not to be the obvious problem. A leakdown test could help you here.

this "dohc key's" are they all universal ? do they work for dsm's?

I have no idea what you're talking about "dohc key". I use a ratchet, box or torque wrench.

the car stalls from high rev isnt that a sign of timing issues ?

Possibly an ignition timing issue, but more likely you have a clutch or driveline issue than mechanical timing issue. I say this because you still have good vacuum at idle (even if it is a high idle). How old is your knock sensor?

what test can i do to make sure that it is a blown hg before tearing all apart?

A leakdown test dry, then wet the cyls. with oil and repeat. If it doesn't increase significantly it's likely the HG and not the rings.
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last time i did my t belt i used a dohc "key" I borrowed from a friend

Still lost on what you mean.

i cant boost pass 20psi right now, have no leaks and up to 30psi boost leak test has been done.

How far back did you test for leaks? Check the throttle body? -The intake mani may also have a vac line busted or blown off.

the car stalls from high rev.

Does the car coast in neutral?

i see 10 dg at idle on the logger and the idle bumps
fuel trims : low103 mid100 high103 ---o2 volts at idle is 78

the bottom tb is blocked so there is no isc or fiav

i think i have a blown head gasket along with ^^^top^^^ symptoms
before i retorked the head i saw one white puff of smoke

retorqued the head after the arp head studs at 1500miles ( I know it was supposed to be done at 500miles but I kept putting away) 106ft lb

vacuum at idle is 17hg at 900 rpm

i did a dry compression test it showed from left to right 145 145 110 145 this with a open throttle, warm engine

what leads me to think this is the -boiling coolant reservoir after drives boosting and the 2nd pitons low compression, btw I have a new radiator cap and a reused cometic head gasket

I would never reuse a headgasket, or any vital gasket or seal for that matter. Why did you decide to? I don't think sealing your head to the block is the place to skimp on doing it right.

note:I remember a small piece of the black top layer of the gasket rubbed off when I touched it didn't think it would matter at the time (stupidity at best)

thanxs in advance

I agree, so let's start with the leakdown test. At the very least you'll know if the problem is inside the engine.

 

[burnnxs]

Your compression numbers still look good enough not to be the obvious problem. A leakdown test could help you here.

i think the same.
im doing one this week, ill keep posting

I have no idea what you're talking about "dohc key". I use a ratchet, box or torque wrench.

its also known as camshaft locking specialty tool , i got it from a tech that used to work for hyundai.

Possibly an ignition timing issue, but more likely you have a clutch or driveline issue than mechanical timing issue. I say this because you still have good vacuum at idle (even if it is a high idle). How old is your knock sensor?.

well it stalls even if it is in neutral so that takes of the clutch issues. i do have a act lighter flywheel and lsd insert .???
i dropped a new knock sensor when i put this all together 3k ago.

How far back did you test for leaks? Check the throttle body? -The intake mani may also have a vac line busted or blown off..

boost leak test was done 50miles ago .
no leaks.
tb has new shaft seals.

Does the car coast in neutral?

yes , i have to tap the gas if im coming from high rpms (4k or +) to keep it from stallin

I would never reuse a headgasket, or any vital gasket or seal for that matter. Why did you decide to? I don't think sealing your head to the block is the place to skimp on doing it right.
I agree, so let's start with the leakdown test. At the very least you'll know if the problem is inside the engine.

true but cometic gaskets can be reused (as far as i know because they dont compress) am i wrong?

 

[burnnxs]

so i did another compression test last night this are my results :
cold dry test -#4- 155 -#3- 155 -#2- 110 -#1- 155
put some oil in all cylinders runned the car untill the smoke cleared.
fully warmed wet test 155 all across
so im guessing that i have a leak somewhere or my radiator or pump took a crap on me then....

about my valve timing, i read about retarding the exhaust cam 1 tooth i might try that soon

 

[delta448]

so i did another compression test last night this are my results :
cold dry test -#4- 155 -#3- 155 -#2- 110 -#1- 155
put some oil in all cylinders runned the car untill the smoke cleared.
fully warmed wet test 155 all across
so im guessing that i have a leak somewhere or my radiator or pump took a crap on me then....

about my valve timing, i read about retarding the exhaust cam 1 tooth i might try that soon

Since #2 increased compression to match the others when you wet tested, you most likely have an issue with the piston rings in that cylinder. This doesn't mean it's your only problem though, it doesn't really explain the stalling issue.

I would recommend that you set the timing belt correctly, double check it for correct alignment if you haven't messed with it yet and check your base ignition timing with a timing light. If your timing is off you may be getting knock under load, or really poor torque production causing your stalling issue.

 

[burnnxs]

Since #2 increased compression to match the others when you wet tested, you most likely have an issue with the piston rings in that cylinder. This doesn't mean it's your only problem though, it doesn't really explain the stalling issue.

I would recommend that you set the timing belt correctly, double check it for correct alignment if you haven't messed with it yet and check your base ignition timing with a timing light. If your timing is off you may be getting knock under load, or really poor torque production causing your stalling issue.

piston ring damage ? already ? this built has about 3-5k miles in.
well i retorqued the head before i did the last compression test and i also drained about half a quart of oil , because it was over.
i think it is doing a bit better because the coolant reservoir doesnt boil any more, i took the car out and drove for a while boosting 17psi no overheating at all but the reservoir went from low to completly full.

ill take the water pump belt off and check for play on the wp pulley tomorrow
do you think it is just a leak ?
if it is i cant find it !!!

is my compression on cylinder #2 going to stay at 155 or is it going to drop back to 120 ?
note
the compression test (155 all across ) was done after fully burning all the oil that i put for the wet test

 

[delta448]

Your compression will drop back down, although tightening the studs may help a little. How are the engine temps? Is the resevoir overflowing? Do you have good oil pressure? -Sorry got to run, still at work...

 

[burnnxs]

Your compression will drop back down, although tightening the studs may help a little. How are the engine temps? Is the resevoir overflowing? Do you have good oil pressure? -Sorry got to run, still at work...

the studs were pretty loose
temp was 204c most of the cruise the highest was 209c (pocket logger) im talking at least 1hour 1/2 of some mild cruise punching it up to 6k on 5th about 130mph 17 psi ,pulled over twice to check the reservoir's level the last time i stopped 45min into it the level went from very low to a bit over half way , when i got home i let it sit for 5 min recheck and it was all the way to the top maybe just leaving some xtra to sip on later what do you think ?

oil press sensor is old, but !! press is good , i mean over half on the stock gauge. when im steping on it .
at reg cruise it drops, not all the way tho... i need a aftermarket one- i know .
what do you think ?

p.s
hey delta your the shit man ,,thanxs for the help

 

[pooker]

From my experience cometics have always needed a mirror finish on the block and head to even get a good seal and reusing them is asking for trouble.

 

[burnnxs]

From my experience cometics have always needed a mirror finish on the block and head to even get a good seal and reusing them is asking for trouble.

were where you 7 months ago man ?
the block and head just got decked when i dropped it.But i didnt and still "dont think" is it althought it was around cyl #2 where that coating peeled off .
im trying to keep kool untill i borrow the leak down tester from the shop tomorrow so....

 

[burnnxs]

leakdown test results
im leaking thru the cooling system, i can hear bubbles for 2 sec then a 2sec pause and over and over

i also hear air thru the oil cap, how much leak should i get thru here ?
cold test
@70psi / 38% leak on cyl #2
@70psi / 42% leak on cyl #4 this was the one with the highest compression almost 160 this was on sunday with a hot engine and a Mac gauge

i rechecked compression with a different gauge (autozone) , cold motor only on #2 it was 145 today after driving pretty hard the night before
this is all jacked up i know ...

should i go the extra mile -rephrase- do i need new piston rings ???