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Boost Leak help! Can't find parts???

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EagleTalonTim

EagleTalonTim

15+ Year Contributor
830
13
Jan 10, 2007
Brighton, Tennessee
I just did a complete boost leak test and found 3 leaks at 10psi. One is the BISS screw, another is #3 injector, and the last is turbo bubbling in the crankcase. The bubbling starts as soon as i hook up the compressor to the tester. I have read already in the forums about the bubbling in the oil pan and how to adjust the timing to make it not leak during a test. I tried everything I could.....after turning the crank 6 times around, it still bubbled in the oil pan. I took out the PCV valve, held it to the angle that it would be if it was in the VC then put my finger on the end.....no leak. As for the other parts, I went to Oreilly Auto Parts and they could not find a Throttle Body gasket set. They also said that the injector seals that go into the intake were $10.99....does that sound right? If not, does anyone have a part number for them? They did not have any in stock so I could not see if that was really what I need. Is there anyway to fix the BISS screw leak without getting an entire kit? What is causing the bubbling in the oil and how do I fix that?

Compression test was decent. 150, 155, 155, 150. I added some SeaFoam to the oil to see if that may help in the lifter tap and help with the compression.

Another problem I am having is the temperature. When I got the car, it was sitting for 2 years. The radiator was cracked on the upper hose area and I went to a scrap yard to get another one. They did not have the exact same radiator as what came off the car. It was a thinner one out of a 2.0 N/T Laser. The stock gauge sits right in the middle after the car is full warmed up. If I hammer on it for about 10 seconds going down the road, the needle will rise a lot. I put a brand new thermostat in and have checked the coolant level each time I go to drive the car. It is always full. Could this be caused by the radiator or the water pump?

Thanks for the help in advance! This car is driving me nuts!
 
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EagleTalonTim said:
Another problem I am having is the temperature. When I got the car, it was sitting for 2 years. The radiator was cracked on the upper hose area and I went to a scrap yard to get another one. They did not have the exact same radiator as what came off the car. It was a thinner one out of a 2.0 N/T Laser. The stock gauge sits right in the middle after the car is full warmed up. If I hammer on it for about 10 seconds going down the road, the needle will rise a lot. I put a brand new thermostat in and have checked the coolant level each time I go to drive the car. It is always full. Could this be caused by the radiator or the water pump?

Thanks for the help in advance! This car is driving me nuts!
Click to expand...

The thinner radiator may be causing your problem with this. Turbo cars have a lot more heat to get rid of. As for the water pump, does the heater work? If it does it is likely your pump is ok. Do the fans come on? If you just let it sit and idle does it overheat?
 
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Radiator then.

For the boost test, mine still bubbled a little through the oil when I had everything set right. Are you holding any pressure, or are the other leaks fairly large?

I went through the same thing a while back, replaced tb gaskets, biss, and inj. seals. Boost test went fine after that!:thumb:
 
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For the BISS screw I just replaced the o-ring that is on the screw with a generic 1/4" o-ring (it has a slightly larger outer diameter), greased it with a little bit of dielectric grease and re-installed the BISS screw. Not a single bit of air escapes past it now.

For the TB gasket many have used RTV silicone with good results. Just don't overdo it, a little goes a long way.
 
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EagleTalonTim said:
What is causing the bubbling in the oil and how do I fix that?
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The information you previously read was probably either mis-informing or mis-understood, turning the crank has to do with pressure leaking out of your exhaust, nothing to do with bubbling sound in the crankcase/oil pan. The sound you hear is pressure leaking through your turbo seal, oil return tube and back into your oil pan, this is considered normal during a STATIC pressure test due to the lack of oil pressure in the CHRA provided that there are no signs of shaft play and/or oil in the LICP.
 
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oldman said:
The sound you hear is pressure leaking through your turbo seal, oil return tube and back into your oil pan, this is considered normal during a STATIC pressure test due to the lack of oil pressure in the CHRA provided that there are no signs of shaft play and/or oil in the LICP.
Click to expand...

Completely agree. This is normal when doing the test from the compressor inlet of the turbo. To verify you can try the test from another spot (LICP, UICP, TB elbow, etc) and you should no longer hear the bubbling in the crankcase.

BTW Bruce, Happy Birthday!! Tried to PM you but the box is full (imagine that :p ). Anyway, get off the damn forum and go celebrate!
 
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I can pressurize the system to 15 psi, then unhook the compressor and the pressure will drop within 3 or 4 seconds. If I take the oil cap off, I can hear the bubbling and a loud hissing noise. As said before, the PCV valve is not leaking. I can plug the BISS screw with my finger and it will stop leaking. The injector has a small leak that is noticeable around 10psi.

LOL. Happy Birthday to you :)
 
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you might try isolating some things as romeen suggested, that will tell you a lot. Maybe you have some leaking valve seals.

with that kind of boost leak, you will be running rich, that will cause the black smoke.
 
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EagleTalonTim said:
I can pressurize the system to 15 psi, then unhook the compressor and the pressure will drop within 3 or 4 seconds. If I take the oil cap off, I can hear the bubbling and a loud hissing noise. As said before, the PCV valve is not leaking. I can plug the BISS screw with my finger and it will stop leaking. The injector has a small leak that is noticeable around 10psi.
Click to expand...

Since you have more than a couple leaks it may be easier to start from the TB elbow and work your way back to the turbo. That way you don't have as many leaks to deal with at one time. Fix all leaks for the section of your intake that you are pressurizing and then continue back one section at a time.



oldman said:
:shhh: I'm old :cry: :p
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oldman said:
Thank you. :cry:
Click to expand...

Hell, I've still got you beat by 360 days. Pretty soon I may have to trade in my DSM for one of those vans for the disabled with a lift and all!:cry: LOL (BTW, got your PM...it's next week on the 11th).
 
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