New fuel pump, couple of questions.

[Ademy08]

I just bought a 190lph walbro fuel pump and just recently got my Joe P. manual boost controller in. What is a safe level of boost to run with that pump and my other mods that are listed in my profile?

Also, right now the lowest that I can turn my boost down to with the controller on the softest setting is 14psi. Is that good/bad or normal?

The last question is that with my pump and install kit from extremepsi.com it came with a fuel filter as it is listed in the installation instructions, so does that mean the fuel filter that I bought for the stock pump is useless?

thanks alot,
Adam

 

[DSMunknown]

I just bought a 190lph walbro fuel pump and just recently got my Joe P. manual boost controller in. What is a safe level of boost to run with that pump and my other mods that are listed in my profile?

Adam, with you're current modifications, you shouldn't be pushing anything higher than 15-to-16 psi.

Also, right now the lowest that I can turn my boost down to with the controller on the softest setting is 14psi. Is that good/bad or normal?

If I remember correctly, the least amount of boost you are able to run with the standard Joe P MBC is 6 psi. Keep backing the adjustment screw out (aka counter-clockwise) and see if the boost levels go down from there.

The last question is that with my pump and install kit from extremepsi.com it came with a fuel filter as it is listed in the installation instructions, so does that mean the fuel filter that I bought for the stock pump is useless?

thanks alot,
Adam

The OEM fuel filter (assuming that is the filter you are refering to) is a solid part. No need to upgrade to some ridiculously overpriced POS. If you would like to know more, please read through this thread about my thoughts on utilizing the OEM fuel filter.

 

[Ademy08]

The fuel filter that I bought is the OEM replacement, sorry if I didn't mention that in my first post, thanks for the info though. In the link that showed what you thought about the OEM filter you mentioned that SS fuel line from import evolution. I was thinking about buying that. Is it worth it?

Alright back to the amount of boost, I now officially believe that my stock wastegate is broken. because I turned the Joe P. alllll the way out to where the adjustment screw was almost falling out and I was still pushing about 14 psi. I then screwed it in to see what happened about 1.5 turns and IT SHOT UP TO ABOUT 26 PSI!!! so then I turned it back down about the 1.5 turns back out and it was back to about 15. Does this sound like a malfunctioning wastegate to you?

thanks alot, from what I've seen it looks like you post a lot of replies to noobs with very helpful answers, i appreciate it

 

[jim97gst]

Eliminate the MBC and run a line directly from your boost source to the wastegate. If the boost stays the same, the problem is with your wastegate. If it goes down, there is a problem with your MBC.

 

[Ademy08]

I finally got around to running a line from my boost source to my wastegate. The boost now holds 12 psi solid. What should I do about the MBC? and is it safe to run it with just the line to the wastegate?

 

[Ademy08]

Can anyone at alll help me answer my two questions?

 

[jim97gst]

Running just the line to the wastegate is fine. If you want to run less boost than ask for a new boost controller. I just looked at the Joe P website and it says that all of their boost controllers have a lifetime warranty.

 

[nates6969]

honestly it sounds like there is nothing wrong with your setup. you have a less restrictive exhaust creating less back pressure. This will cause slight overrun of the wastegate but is nothing to worry about cause 12psi isnt that bad...its basically stock...however as for how much boost you should run, you really need to get a logger before you even touch the boost. I'd run 12psi until you get a logger then you can play with it a bit. I wouldn't run any higher then 14psi psi without fuel control as well. the ecus maps do not go past roughly 14psi, if you flow even more air your computer will continue using the timing and AF ratios for lower boost...this could get ugly causing some serious detonation

 

[Ademy08]

I sent an email to joe P's tech department so I'm waiting for a reply on the replacement. What logger do you suggest and which fuel control do you suggest?

thank you

 

[jim97gst]

This is a popular logger.

http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=obdii

You'll also need a palm pilot of some sort.

The most popular piggyback fuel control is the Apexi AFC which is around $300.

Before buying a logger, you should decide now if you want to go with dsmlink because it's a logger and fuel control in one so you won't need the logger. Dsmlink is $600 + eprom ecu which is ~$200-$250 + laptop if you don't already have one, although you can also run dsmlink on some palm pilots. You could also go all out and get the AEM EMS. There are other options out there but those are probably the most popular choices depending on how much money you want to spend.

As for your boost, 15 psi on even a completely stock car is fine. If you look at a 2G factory manual, it will tell you that the acceptable upper end for boost pressure is 14.7 psi. Mine happened to be at ~15 psi completely stock. I guess I got a good stock BOV from the factory.

 

[TSG59_Steve]

Pocketlogger is a good logger. I'm going with DSMlink soon though so I'll be letting mine go, but it was nice to have so I could read codes, log, and such.

 

[Ademy08]

what is your opinion on the AFC neo from extremepsi for 299 and the Greddy Inteligent Informeter? the Greddy was just a thought, i didn't know what people's experiences on it were, ive never heard of anyone using it.

 

[nates6969]

The Neo is basically a glorified SAFC2...both of which IMO are terrible! sorry let me correct that...if you have a 'just over stock car' then they work great for tweaking your tune. but as soon as you get serious with your car...aka bigger injectors, different maf...anything that would drastically change air flow or fuel systems then the safcs just dont cut it. They simply lie to the stock computer telling it you're at a lower load point in the computers maps, giving you some nasty timing and all sorts of issues. Personally I went eprom (200 bucks) and an eprom emulator (175), you can then program what injectors you wants and tweak the maf compensation and get a perfect tune...you can then go in and change the fuel and timing maps, no lift to shift, launch control, fuel cut removal and much more, giving you full control. it is the BEST thing next to a complete standalone...blows dsmlink away as well

 

[Ademy08]

I am just over stock, but what are some links to the setup that you have?

 

[nates6969]

here is the link for the emulator http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=57...I bought this a few months back and now I would never sell the thing! sooo easy to tune with. The emulator alone is just for holding the map of your tune, you also will need a tuning program such as TunerRT (this is free), then you also need the stock map files which I have and can send you. Once you have that you can load up TunerRT at tweak everything in the ECU. here is another link regarding modifying the stock ecu...http://home.earthlink.net/~grey2.0/ECUedit.html ...it looks difficult at first cause they talk about re-writing the hex code however I have a bunch of maps where I have already done this and you can just use tunerRT to finish tweaking the fuel/timing maps and such. I'm about to switch over to ds-map which is a rewritten stock ecu map which completely eliminates the use of a MAF sensor and uses speed density, a far superior version of air metering. To do this, you only need to buy a pressure sensor and temp sensor along with the ostrich. If you are interested in either, get the ostrich emulator first and tune with that for a while just to get the feel for it. oh ya, you can also do logging through tunerRT although I have yet to get this setup

Here is a picture of what tunerRT looks like and some examples of what it can do

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