Clutch noise when decelerating. Help! clutch expert needed

[Ceddy]

I just had a new clutch installed, sprung 6-puck, pressure plate, flywheel, TOB, all new.

I have about 10 miles on it breaking it in.

Heres the problem, when I give it a little gas, so it boosts to 5 psi, then let off the gas, it makes a rattling/grinding noise. I immediately pressed the clutch pedal and it goes away.

It could be making the noise and I can't hear it over the exhaust when accelerating. Only does it when I'm at 5 psi for at least a couple seconds then let off the gas.

Does anyone know what this could possibly be?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just spent $600 on this, and right now I don't know what to do.

 

[poonman]

you did change your throw out bearing, correct?

 

[Ceddy]

Yeah, brand new OEM TOB.

 

[poonman]

first do me a favor and make sure its coming from exactly the tranny, it could just be something loose that is shaking from the decell

 

[Ceddy]

The noise is rpm dependant and stops as soon as I push in the clutch and will only happens if I give it some power first. I only had it up to 5 psi so far.

Kind of sounds like it might be slipping and grabbing real quick. But I don't know. Never made any noise when I had the old clutch in.

Anyone know what would happen if the springs popped out? Could that cause something like this?

 

[poonman]

yes and no, you would know if a spring poped, did you install it yourself or have a shop do it

 

[Ceddy]

Had a shop do it.

 

[poonman]

bro if you had a shop do it, then take it back and tell them to fix it, it might just be something as simple and its not fully broken in or even has oil on the disc

 

[Ceddy]

I'm going to call them first thing tomorrow morning. Thanks for the help.

I know you have break them in to extend the clutches life. How long does it takes usually for them to grab/operate normally? I thought ceramic pucks didn't really need to be broken in that much.

Thanks for the info.

 

[poonman]

things always need to be broken in
This is from turbo mag
T: Why is clutch break-in so important?
S: We recommend 200 to 300 miles of mellow usage for our street discs. The purpose of breaking in a clutch is to engage the disc in a controlled, consistent manner to ensure the disc, pressure plate and flywheel all make full surface contact. It's also a chance for the friction material to experience normal heat cycles.

 

[force it in]

Do you have an aluminum flywheel? Ever since I installed mine I've experienced some noise on decelleration.

 

[DGajre777]

I have an ACT 2100 with a 6 puck sprung hub disc (OEM TOB, ACT Flywheel). It rattled like something was loose on deceleration for about 50 miles and then it went away.

I've driven about 2500 miles on it now and it doesn't rattle. When I asked ACT about a break-in on the 6 puck discs, they said, "no break-in required, only a few high-rpm slips". I went easy on it (no 4500 RPM launches) for one week of city driving (200 miles), then I went crazy with it.

I hope this helps.

 

[Ceddy]

Hey thanks for everyones help. I have 26 miles on it now and 4 heat/cool down cycles and the sound went away!!!

It will still chatter for a second when I boost then engine brake. Before the chattering was loud and would not stop until I depressed the clutch. I thought the clutch was sawing through the transmission or something. They should put a warning in with the clutch instructions.

Thanks again for everyones help.

 

[DGajre777]

Hey thanks for everyones help. I have 26 miles on it now and 4 heat/cool down cycles and the sound went away!!!

It will still chatter for a second when I boost then engine brake. Before the chattering was loud and would not stop until I depressed the clutch. I thought the clutch was sawing through the transmission or something. They should put a warning in with the clutch instructions.

Thanks again for everyones help.

Yeah, I was freaking out when this happened too, but was glad when it went away. Enjoy your launches!