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2.0 n/t engine in a gst

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snowboarda10hal

15+ Year Contributor
32
0
Oct 8, 2006
west newfield, Maine
what would i need to do this swap. the engine i have now has over 200 k and i have a fairly new 2.0 n/t .....is it even worth waisting my time if i want to put up good numbers?
 
what would i need to do this swap. the engine i have now has over 200 k and i have a fairly new 2.0 n/t .....is it even worth waisting my time if i want to put up good numbers?

The 2.0 NT is rated at 135hp. I'm not sure what you consider "good" numbers, but to get a 2.0 NT up to stock 4G63T power levels is going to be a pretty big undertaking in itself.
 
The 2.0 NT is rated at 135hp. I'm not sure what you consider "good" numbers, but to get a 2.0 NT up to stock 4G63T power levels is going to be a pretty big undertaking in itself.

Agreed.
What is wrong with the motor you have? If it is still going, use it. If you want to replace it, get another turbo motor. You will be saddened by the lack of power with the N/T motor and chances are you would end up swapping in a turbo motor later on down the road. Save your money, save your time, use your the rest of your turbo engine, and replace it ONCE with a turbo motor.
 
Alright thank you very much, well here is the deal a kid down the road from me has a shell no motor of transmission but he would throw in a 2.0 4g63 for a little more cash. But from what i'm getting ill just buy a rebuilt 6 bolt and tranny. anyone have any ?? haha
 
Why replace a motor w/ 200K? only older american engines SEAM to wear out by then. . .

First:
I boosted my 190K motor to 30 psi. Yes, I have a 6 bolt. But, w/ milage, we're talking about ring wear and bearing damage. Which both 6 & 7 bolt engines have the same quality from the factory.

Second:
Have you run a compression check?

Third:
Does it smoke blue (not black, white, grey) out the tail pipe? does the dipstick blow out under boost? Even if these symptoms are there, have you checked the pcv valve?
 
i got a friend who is selling a complete done 1g 4g63 like 3 g's full upper and lowers forged rods pistons the whole nine i personly hate the 4g63, id rather use my 420a without crankwalk and make it turbo knowing that when its done i dont have to worry about it walking on me
 
The 4g63 does not crankwalk as often as it may seem. Many people jump to the conclusion of crankwalk, because it fits some, or even all, of the symptoms. People seldom actually check the end-play or thrust bearing clearance of the crankshaft, though.
 
crankwalk is overrated.

It's FAR cheeper to go through two 4g63 engines (assuming one would crank walk) than it is to build a 420a to handle anywhere near what even 4g63 7-bolt can handle... Of course, you can do it anyway (go forged internals) for your 420a block, but then well over 500 hp should be your goal from a financial and sensable point of view.

The 420a has it's place. so does the 4G37. It is reliable; well suited for a budget sports car where the owner doesn't want to tune, build, and race. Anything is possible w/ money but money well spent is the name of the game. It is not likely to get a 420a to 500+ hp w/ a $2500 budget (considering you already own the automobile). forged internals and possibly an upgraded crank kills that off the bat.
 
I dont care about the money, and yes its going to have forge pistons and rods and thanks to locke i have now found the 7500 cams i need, money is no issue i already plan on spending close to 5 grand on this project but like i said money means nothing to me, you only live once and if you dont do the things you want to in life then thats not living
 
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