Few questions. New motor.

[DiamondStarAwd]

92 awd
16g

Ok so the motor has bout 220 miles on it. je pistons is about the only after market thing on it After the car warms up it starts puffing smoke out, you give the car some gas and it just is a cloud full.

I did a compression test

150,150,150,135. hmmm

Maybe the rings havent had time to set.

I didn't check for shaft play yet, however, will a turbo just pour smoke out like that when you give it gas. The oil feed is coming off teh head.


It had idle surge but I adjusted the biss and it idles fine for now, everytime I start it up it wants to idle in a different spot.

 

[DRated]

That last cylinder seems low? Did you fix that compression?

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

it is low. Theres no way to " fix " the compression . Its either it is having installment issues or hasnt set yet, we will see.

 

[My96AWD]

that sounds like an error in the building process. your going to have to pull it apart and re-hone and put some new rings in it. your rings are just about broke in in the first 20 miles of driving. everything that is left is tiny.

rules for breaking in a motor
1 no syn oil for 2000 miles (non detergent oil for break-in)
2 don't fire it up till you are going to take it out and drive it
3 warm it up before you leave (check for leaks while warming up if there is a leak shut down and fix unless it it not something that would be fatal to the motor)
4 change the oil and filter
5 take it out to the highway or side road that no one is on, bring it up to about 4 grand moderate accel, let off gas let trans slow the car down repeat 3 times.
6 take it up to 6 grand mod. accel.let the trans slow the car down. repeat 3 times.
7 take it up to 7 grand heavy accel. let the trans slow the car down. repeat 3 times.
8 change oil and filter again after 500 miles and 1500 miles.

if you follow these rules you will have not only more power but your motor will last longer due to less blow-by and oil contamination. if something goes wrong then it was built poorly.

 

[Spoolin98]

that sounds like an error in the building process. your going to have to pull it apart and re-hone and put some new rings in it. your rings are just about broke in in the first 20 miles of driving. everything that is left is tiny.

rules for breaking in a motor
1 no syn oil for 2000 miles (non detergent oil for break-in)
2 don't fire it up till you are going to take it out and drive it
3 warm it up before you leave (check for leaks while warming up if there is a leak shut down and fix unless it it not something that would be fatal to the motor)
4 change the oil and filter
5 take it out to the highway or side road that no one is on, bring it up to about 4 grand moderate accel, let off gas let trans slow the car down repeat 3 times.
6 take it up to 6 grand mod. accel.let the trans slow the car down. repeat 3 times.
7 take it up to 7 grand heavy accel. let the trans slow the car down. repeat 3 times.
8 change oil and filter again after 500 miles and 1500 miles.

if you follow these rules you will have not only more power but your motor will last longer due to less blow-by and oil contamination. if something goes wrong then it was built poorly.

If you dont mind me asking, where did you get this information from?

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Definitely sounds like the rings didn't seat in piston number 4.

I'm dropping the pistons in my 6-bolt tomorrow. Here's hoping.

Wish me luck. (Knocks on wood)

 

[PSI NRG]

Theres a few ways to break in a motor... I chose the motomans way of doing it. Hard accel. through the whole powerband at moderate boost a few times did the trick.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Heres a good website I found that explains how to properly break in an engine.

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

I just did a hard break in like motoman said, and I got 190 in all 4 cylinders.... do it motomans way... you wont regret it....

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

I just did a hard break in like motoman said, and I got 190 in all 4 cylinders.... do it motomans way... you wont regret it....

what pistons did you use.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Ok well if thats the case. I have a already broken in 6 bolt in my garage that tests 155 across the board in my garage. Problem is, that its a 90 and the CAS is different. Is it possible to swap over teh cas's between the 92 and 90 motors. What else would need to be changed?

 

[Spoolin98]

This is a very debatable subject. I have heard so many different ways to break in a motor. When I was told this below, I asked them if they have ever heard of the mototune way and explained it and they found it to be ridiculous, they explained why but I forget. They said the cylinder walls play the most important role in the correct seating of the rings. They guaranteed good compression numbers if I used there break in method WITH there machine work, which may I add is excellent.


I was told this by a reputable DSM Machine shop.

"We recommend filling the cooling system with HOT water just prior to start-up. Check system for air and purge at this time, check all other fluid levels. DO NOT allow the engine to idle during the initial start up/break in period, vary the rpm's from 2500-3000 for 10-15mins, no load, free idle only, no boost pressures, turn engine off and check for leaks, check coolant system for air again. Re-fire engine and allow to run at fast idle for the remaining time to equal 25minutes. A good quality Non-Detergent 30w motor engine oil should be used for the first fire and the 20-25 minutes of break in operation. ( DO NOT LOAD OR DRIVE CAR with break in oil ) Drain the oil and change the filter, use a good 10w-30 or 20w-50 (for use with higher base pressure clutches) oil for the next five hundred miles. DO NOT use any synthetics until after completing your full break in period. ALL clutch cars should disable the clutch start switch prior to cranking engine. Your new engine must have proper spark and air fuel mixtures to prevent cylinder wash down and or detonation. Your engine must be properly tuned."

~~
They also suggested:
- All new engines MUST BE equipped with a new oil pump, new oil cooler, new oil cooler lines due to previous bearing materials
- Engine pans must be completely disassembled and cleaned
- Run stock boost on the stock injectors, and do not boost during the break in period.

They STRESSED this:
-DO NOT FALSE START or FALSE CRANK your engine to prime, that will not work and will seriously damage the engine components. Remove the valve cover, with the timing belt off and no balance shafts, prime the motor by spinning the oil pump with an air gun. When done correctly you should be able to see oil coming out all throughout the head. This will ensure your not starting the engine dry. Set the timing and start as soon as possible after priming.

 

[steve]

Problem is, that its a 90 and the CAS is different. Is it possible to swap over teh cas's between the 92 and 90 motors.

The 90 CAS has a pigtail harness where the later cars all use a CAS that has the connector them. The engine wiring harness mates with the one of the other.

I assume what your asking about is putting a 90 engine into a 92 car. If that's the case and you still have the old engine, pull the CAS, fuel rail, throttle body, coils, power transistor, and wiring harness from the 92 engine and put all of it on the 90 block. Pulling the intake manifold and everything attached mght be quicker.

Steve

 

[My96AWD]

If you dont mind me asking, where did you get this information from?

from building motors. I have broken in all of the motors that i have built like that and every one has not had a problem. it was passed onto me from another builder that i knew that built motors for race cars in the 70s. the majority of problems are from machining or not building it to right specs. now that we use low tension rings it is more critical to load the rings to break them in right, because its not the pressure against the cylinder that the ring provides, it is the pressure from the ignition of the fuel in the cylinder that breaks in the rings.

case in point i bought a bike (1998 cbr 600 f3). I hammered on it since day one. buddy got one a little more then a month after and mine was always faster then his. i sold that bike with 19000 miles on it and it was hanging with 2003 600s.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

The 90 CAS has a pigtail harness where the later cars all use a CAS that has the connector them. The engine wiring harness mates with the one of the other.

I assume what your asking about is putting a 90 engine into a 92 car. If that's the case and you still have the old engine, pull the CAS, fuel rail, throttle body, coils, power transistor, and wiring harness from the 92 engine and put all of it on the 90 block. Pulling the intake manifold and everything attached mght be quicker.

Steve

My 90 motor is bare. Just has the intake manifold on it. No tb, no oil filter housing, no t-stat housing. So I will just swap it all over to the 90 motor.

 

[Spoolin98]

from building motors. I have broken in all of the motors that i have built like that and every one has not had a problem. it was passed onto me from another builder that i knew that built motors for race cars in the 70s. the majority of problems are from machining or not building it to right specs. now that we use low tension rings it is more critical to load the rings to break them in right, because its not the pressure against the cylinder that the ring provides, it is the pressure from the ignition of the fuel in the cylinder that breaks in the rings.

case in point i bought a bike (1998 cbr 600 f3). I hammered on it since day one. buddy got one a little more then a month after and mine was always faster then his. i sold that bike with 19000 miles on it and it was hanging with 2003 600s.

Well whatever works for you. I was only asking because some things you said contradict what the machine shop said.

 

[My96AWD]

also with what the auto bike and watersport companys say.