AFPR Install Help, Urgent

[jreese86]

I just installed a Megan AFPR w/ a Weapon R adapter for the fuel rail. When I try to start the car up, it either won't start, or it starts for 5-10 seconds and dies. If you try to hit the gas while it's running it dies. I tired opening up the AFPR all the way, and it made it not start at all. I closed the AFPR all the way, same thing. When adjusted in the middle, it's more likely to start every few times, but still dies after a few seconds. When it runs, the fuel gage on the FPR still reads 0. The car is stuck in my parents driveway right now, roughly an hour drive away from my apartment =/ They aren't very happy about this. I need to get it out of there asap. Anyone got any ideas? I'm fairly positive it's hooked up correctly, feed goes in the side, return comes out the bottom.

 

[dalatinromeo]

Double check the fittings and installation see if you might have missed something on the installation. Where do you have your base fuel pressure set at??

Take some pics so we can see if you missed something.

 

[jreese86]

Adapter is fitted tightly sealed with Teflon paste. No leaks from the adapter or any hoses. Fuel Pressure gauge won't read anything, even when car is running. Will try and snap picks on Saturday.

 

[WeaselHack]

Sounds like you have it hooked up backwards...upload some pics when you have a chance.

 

[jreese86]

Can't take pictures til Saturday. Here's how it's hooked up via paint:

 

[FORMONTOYA]

How did the car run before this project? With the 255 I assume idle and cruise was fairly rich and now you're getting around to adding the AFPR, correct? Have you tried putting the OEM one back on to see what happens? If so, what happens? What gauge do you have? Did you use paste or tape on the fittings? The reason is that sometimes the tape gets put on over the orifice without being noticed, therefore resulting in a 0PSI reading.

Of course turning the adjuster all the way in or out will totally FUBAR the settings. Either way to much pressure, or not enough, hence the not doing sh!t scenario.

I would look at the install again to make sure everything is correct and no orifices are covered. While it's apart, test the regulator/gauge combo to make sure it's working correctly. At least test the gauge.

And you're correct..........most regulators feed from the side and return from the bottom.

 

[jreese86]

I used teflon paste for the adapter, taking care to keep it out of the hole through the adapter. Previously I had the idle sittign at abotu 900-1k rpm. The car would take a few attempts to get started when cold. Didn't get a chance to retry the stock fpr, ran out of time. Would prefer not doing that until all my other options are exhausted.

How would I go about testing the regulator/gauge?

 

[WeaselHack]

How would I go about testing the regulator/gauge?

Try using an air compressor to test it or a bike pump or similar device. Good luck!

 

[jreese86]

Ok, so if I pumped air into it, whatever air pressure over what it's set to should come out the bottom, and the gauge should read the pressure?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

This is for a 1G

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Follow this to fire up the pump. With the pump running you should have pressure at the gauge. Adjust as if you had the hose disconnected.

If you don't have pressure at the gauge but can feel pressure at the rail feed, then suspect the gauge. Remove the gauge (of course after turning everything off and relieving any pressure) and apply air pressure to it, of course use a regulator on the air compressor so you don't blow the gauge.

You can see if the regulator is working properly by applying pressure to the signal port (where the vacuum line hooks to), the fuel pressure should raise accordingly.

 

[jreese86]

I'll give that a shot tomorrow then, thanks alot.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

It may sound stupid...............but also check the return line for any kinks as that will also raise the fuel pressure and throw things "out of whack".

 

[jreese86]

Question: How would I get the fuel pump to turn on without the car running? It's a rewired 255, but the previous owner did it and I don't know anything when it comes to electronics.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

If it was re-wired correctly:

Follow the diagram above. On the firewall there is an open "plug/connector". Temporarily attach +12v to that connector and the pump will run without the key in the "on" position.

If it's not re-wired correctly..............sorry, you'll have to figure that one out yourself.