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Car shut off now no spark!

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1990talon

15+ Year Contributor
331
1
Aug 3, 2006
Federal Way, Washington
Ok I searched and came up with a couple of things mabey a resistor or a CAS but would either of these go when I was driving? Witch would be the likley suspect? what is the easiest way to test them is this the problem? any help would be appriciated. I need this car fixed it is my only car :cry: . I will go buy parts and put them on then return them what ever just lead me in the right direction.
 
The easiest way I know to check if the Cam angle sensor is no longer good is by first marking how the CAS sensor is positioned with a marker, then loosening a bit the 2 bolts. Then with the key in the "on" position, turn the cas around. If it is working you should hear your fuel pump turning on and working. If it is in good working order I would check your timing belt and make sure that wasn't destroyed.
 
alkadaypx182 said:
The easiest way I know to check if the Cam angle sensor is no longer good is by first marking how the CAS sensor is positioned with a marker, then loosening a bit the 2 bolts. Then with the key in the "on" position, turn the cas around. If it is working you should hear your fuel pump turning on and working. If it is in good working order I would check your timing belt and make sure that wasn't destroyed.


Ok I had it unhooked the first time then I relized I left it unhooked when I try to test it so I pluged it in and then I herd the fuel pump go on then right off so then I turned the car off then back to the on position and moved it around and nothing happend. Is it bad or do you think it still works properly. also when I went to find it the parts stores show it as not required for my car but they do show a crank position sensor. Is there something else it is called in there computers?
 
Also I am at work but I have been reading and I have not checked for spark in all the cylinders so I will do that when I get home. but found my answer on the sensor and what it is called they do referance it as the crankshaft position sensor at the parts stores.
 
Ok I how do I find out wich ECU I have and if it is bad? the guy that previously owened the car did some of the upgrades but I don't know if he upgraded the ECU.
 
First check the resistance on your coil pack and the plug wires, then check the plugs. Do you have the haynes or chiltons manual for you car? If not, then you need to get one. There is also a connector on the Left side of the engine by the intake manifold, there are 2 connectors there one small one and a larger one below it, check the connections of both and make sure there are no breaks in the wires or corroded connections. If all this checks out, then it might be the ECM(ecu) The 90' Eclipse ECM (ECU) had a bad tendency to have parts break open and leak onto the board, I think it was resistors mounted along the inside edge of the unit. Unless you are very good with electrical parts I don't reccomend trying to repair it yourself.

There is a website www.autocomputersupply.com, used to be called ecm's to go that specializes in repair and upgrading ECM's, from what I've heard they do great work. It usually costs about $225- $250 to get your ECM rebuilt, it usually takes about a week at most from the time you send them your ECM till you get it back. They sometimes also have some that are already done, all you have to do is send them the payment along with your ECM. Hope this helps.
 
Ok I will check that when I get home is there any way to tell if it is my ECU I would just buy a new one.
 
The first step in checking was looking for the CEL I asked before. That tells you that the ECU is getting power and running. It doesn't tell us that it doing anything useful but it eliminated blown fuses and dead ECUs. On turbo cars you will also see the boost gauge go to zero and stay there until you start the car.

You have to pull the ECU to check it. It's located in the center console,
http://www.technomotive.com/howto/ecu1g/checkeprom.htm shows how to get at it.
 
Last edited:
steve said:
The first step in checking was looking for the CEL I asked before. That tells you that the ECU is getting power and running. It doesn't tell us that it doing anything useful but it eliminated blown fuses and dead ECUs. On turbo cars you will also see the boost gauge go to zero and stay there until you start the car.

You have to pull the ECU to check it. It's located in the center console,
http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/checkeprom.htm shows how to get at it.


Ok so I said above that the light went off I dont know if you seen that I forgot to quote it sorry. So how can I check for leaking capacitors? or do I even need to check for those now? I have an after market boost gauge.

Thanks,
Brandon
 
Ok I have read some of the other posts about leaking capacitors that you have posted in and now figured out how to tell if they are leaking seems pretty easy.


Thanks again,
Brandon
 
Ok i checked it out one of them were leaky but not bad I cleaned it up and am going to try and put it back in. If the capacitor leaked will it still work if I just cleaned it up, I know eventually I will have to replace it but is it ok for now? also if it dosent work when I put it back in is this the problem or should I test some other stuff first?
 
1990talon said:
If the capacitor leaked will it still work if I just cleaned it up, I know eventually I will have to replace it but is it ok for now?
Cleaning doesn't usually fix the problems. The capacitors have been leaking for a while before the problems started. Leaving them could worst case lead to them shorting and blowing up. That usually ruins the ECU.

Steve
 
Ok is there any where I can the capacitor I can soldier but do not now any thing about the boards.

Thanks
 
Ok I put my ECU back in and then replaced my coil pack still nothing do you think it could be my power transistor? or should I just get a new ECU? The power transistor is $110 at the local parts store.
 
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