Proper timing tensioner

[spyderdrifter]

Can someone please show me a picture of the proper timing tensioner I'm supposed to have for my '97 GST? According to ExtremePSI's website, at this link: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts , my car has the early '95 tensioner. I'm intending to buy a new tensioner, but want to get the right one. Thanks.

[iugrad92turbo]

Get the one for your year, order the one for the engine if you have your supposed to have a 97. Get the 95 not if you have a early build if not get the other.

[spyderdrifter]

Since they are different, maybe I should have asked if it matters which one I have. I'm inclined to get the one for '97 models as that's what year I own. But is there a difference in these tensioner other than appearance?

[iugrad92turbo]

Not that im aware of they both do the same job just get the one for your year later 95 unless its a early build then early 95. Any quesions call extreme psi, i get most of my stuff from them they can help if that helps.

[dexterholland04]

If you own a 97...buy a 97 tensioner...how is this difficult?

[honda_burner]

Be careful. Im not sure if they are different but if they are, verify what engine you have. I have a 97 talon block that im using for my rebuild because I thought it was a split thrush bearing. It is not, and turns out most of 97 didn't have the updated bearing set up.

[spyderdrifter]

Originally Posted by dexterholland04

If you own a 97...buy a 97 tensioner...how is this difficult?

To avoid any hostility here, since I see your comment as non helpful, I will be getting a '97 tensioner. I planned that before starting this post. I simply made the.post to see if there are any actual differences that would result in problems if the wrong one is used. I'm a very curious person when it comes to little changes between things that most people would overlook. Its my way of researching things to expand my own knowledge.

Originally Posted by iugrad92turbo

Not that im aware of they both do the same job just get the one for your year later 95 unless its a early build then early 95. Any quesions call extreme psi, i get most of my stuff from them they can help if that helps.

I get most of my stuff from them too, never had a problem with them helping me out either. They got decent customer service.

Originally Posted by honda_burner

Be careful. Im not sure if they are different but if they are, verify what engine you have. I have a 97 talon block that im using for my rebuild because I thought it was a split thrush bearing. It is not, and turns out most of 97 didn't have the updated bearing set up.

I'm sure by looking at the serial number on the block is the way to determine all this, but were can I look to verify what the numbers represent?

[pauleyman]

Not that im aware of they both do the same job just get the one for your year later 95 unless its a early build then early 95.

Incorrect. There are three part numbers available. Early 95 MD185539. This has been superceeded by MD308587 through august 1995. This is BUILD date not model year. 1997 will use MD305086. They do not interchange.
I'm in agreement with above posts. Order for your 1997 year, why is this hard?

Where does it say on that site that you need an early 1995? The kit options I saw allow you to pick year.

[DSM1G90]

Kinda depends what year the block was made no matter what year the chassis is - like users dropping 6Bolts in later model DSM's - gotta use the 6 Bolt parts.

I first took it as his vehicle, being a '97, has a '95 block why of the earlier tensioner design. If he's just a recent owner, the previous owner prob put a '95 block in his Spyder, or the OP did put a '95 block to replace the original blown '97 block.

It can work in many directions.

Some thing to think about.

[iugrad92turbo]

I would contact them monday, to clarify anything, but either way order tommorrow shipped tommorrow, once you have conformation of what you need.

[spyderdrifter]

Again, for those of you asking me why it's so hard to order for my model year, IT'S NOT.... I'm simply doing my own research as I have already stated. Don't get me wrong, the info provided is useful, but I don't need anyone asking me over and over why it's so hard to determine which one I need. Once is enough. It just aggrivates me more. I don't post these questions just to get negative comments back. I can take criticism, but when it's something this simple, come on...

All I want to know now, is based on the engine block serial number, how do I find out what year it is? This way I get the proper tensioner for the proper block. That's all I want and need to know now. Anyone have a link to such info so I can go look it up myself?

Originally Posted by DSM1G90

Kinda depends what year the block was made no matter what year the chassis is - like users dropping 6Bolts in later model DSM's - gotta use the 6 Bolt parts.

I first took it as his vehicle, being a '97, has a '95 block why of the earlier tensioner design. If he's just a recent owner, the previous owner prob put a '95 block in his Spyder, or the OP did put a '95 block to replace the original blown '97 block.

It can work in many directions.

Some thing to think about.

Thanks, that's basically what I was trying to get at. However, I haven't changed out the block, and I'm hoping the previous owner didn't either.

[bryanwheat]

You could have a 99 block with a 95 tensioner arm which would mean that you need a 95 tensioner. You could

Originally Posted by spyderdrifter

Again, for those of you asking me why it's so hard to order for my model year, IT'S NOT.... I'm simply doing my own research as I have already stated. Don't get me wrong, the info provided is useful, but I don't need anyone asking me over and over why it's so hard to determine which one I need. Once is enough. It just aggrivates me more. I don't post these questions just to get negative comments back. I can take criticism, but when it's something this simple, come on...

All I want to know now, is based on the engine block serial number, how do I find out what year it is? This way I get the proper tensioner for the proper block. That's all I want and need to know now. Anyone have a link to such info so I can go look it up myself?

Well first off, you are not doing research, you are wanting people to spoon feed you the information. There are plenty of threads on this site about this very situation that you could find with the search button. Second, don't get angry when people who are well educated tell you an answer that you don't want to hear.

[spyderdrifter]

Originally Posted by bryanwheat

Well first off, you are not doing research, you are wanting people to spoon feed you the information. There are plenty of threads on this site about this very situation that you could find with the search button. Second, don't get angry when people who are well educated tell you an answer that you don't want to hear. 3rd, it really doesn't matter what block you are running, it is about matching the tensioner to the tensioner arm. You could have a 99 block with a 95 tensioner arm which would mean that you need a 95 tensioner. You could have a 95 block with a 99 tensioner arm which would require a later model tensioner. The bolt holes in the block are in the same location. The difference is in the arm and tensioner.

I'm not asking to be spoon fed answers here. Like many of us, I got other things going on in my life and don't always have the time to search through a list of possible answers. I'm not getting mad at getting an answer I don't want to hear. I'm getting irritated by people repeatedly asking what the problem is with getting the proper tensioner. I know the 2 pieces need to match, now, but when everyone asks why I can't just get the proper year range part instead of asking about it pisses me off. I wouldn't be asking for help if I knew for certain which parts I had on the engine right now. It just seems like everyone just wants to add there little 2cents and escalate the issue when this could have been resolved without the need for all these other posts of me bitching about this crap. And if the moderators see fit to ban me for speaking my mind, then fine.

[bryanwheat]

Originally Posted by spyderdrifter

I'm not asking to be spoon fed answers here. Like many of us, I got other things going on in my life and don't always have the time to search through a list of possible answers. I'm not getting mad at getting an answer I don't want to hear. I'm getting irritated by people repeatedly asking what the problem is with getting the proper tensioner. I know the 2 pieces need to match, now, but when everyone asks why I can't just get the proper year range part instead of asking about it pisses me off. I wouldn't be asking for help if I knew for certain which parts I had on the engine right now. It just seems like everyone just wants to add there little 2cents and escalate the issue when this could have been resolved without the need for all these other posts of me bitching about this crap.

Well how do you expect anyone else to be able to answer your question if they don't know exactly what you have. You originally said that you have the early tensioner on there. Well if that is what you have, order another one, it is really that simple.

[KevinRR]

Originally Posted by bryanwheat

Well first off, you are not doing research, you are wanting people to spoon feed you the information. There are plenty of threads on this site about this very situation that you could find with the search button. Second, don't get angry when people who are well educated tell you an answer that you don't want to hear. 3rd, it really doesn't matter what block you are running, it is about matching the tensioner to the tensioner arm. You could have a 99 block with a 95 tensioner arm which would mean that you need a 95 tensioner. You could have a 95 block with a 99 tensioner arm which would require a later model tensioner. The bolt holes in the block are in the same location. The difference is in the arm and tensioner.

There is no difference in the tensioner arm 95-99 is all the same. The only difference is early 95 uses this part MIT-MD308587 tensioner and later 95-99 uses this MIT-MD308086.

[dexterholland04]

You should be researching block casting numbers/marks then to determine which block is in your car. No hostility here, I see what you're getting at. The 2g motors before August of '95 have different tensioners than those made after August of '95. Just last night I had a huge argument with a friend that the late 2g tensioner he bought would not fit on the earlier 7-bolts. Needless to say, I was right.

[pauleyman]

Wait a min, your car has the 95 tensioner on it now? Something had to have changed. If you see the 95 vs the 97 they are way different. If it's an OEM block and not a replacement then it should have a VIN you can trace. Otherwise you're going to have to do a little research. The factory parts lookup will show you how many different part numbers there are for the arm etc. I don't think the bolt spacing is the same. I don't have two to compare at the moment but I do know the 97 up use kind of large tensioner and even the pin is big by comparison. I've done mine within the last year.

[spyderdrifter]

Originally Posted by KevinRR

There is no difference in the tensioner arm 95-99 is all the same. The only difference is early 95 uses this part MIT-MD308587 tensioner and later 95-99 uses this MIT-MD308086.

Thanks for the part number info. I'll be ordering one later today or tomorrow. After I find out for sure which one to order... most likely the proper '97 range tensioner.

Originally Posted by dexterholland04

You should be researching block casting numbers/marks then to determine which block is in your car. No hostility here, I see what you're getting at. The 2g motors before August of '95 have different tensioners than those made after August of '95. Just last night I had a huge argument with a friend that the late 2g tensioner he bought would not fit on the earlier 7-bolts. Needless to say, I was right.

Thank you, that's all I was wanting to know. I'm trying to research the stamping numbers right now. I don't mind being wrong on things, as long as I'm not treated like an idiot for being wrong. That being said, I'm not accusing you of implying that I'm an idiot, just a general statement. I also tend to think better after drinking, which I've been doing to knumb the pain in my hand since I just split open a knuckle while working on my car. Hurts like hell, it's deep...

Here's pics of the tensioner and arm on my engine:

[spyderdrifter]

I just did a search under "Engine block identification" and "Engine block cast numbers". Came up with one result that didn't help. Do any of you have a link to find out for sure what the casting numbers mean?

[NHerron]

Let's try a different angle here

If your block VIN matches your car VIN, there is nothing to worry about, get the 95-99' tensioner

The tenth digit is the model year, the block and the car VIN should both have a "V" for model year 1997 in the 10th digit spot

The casting number near the turbo/oil dipstick is not of concern, you want the block VIN

And here is a decoder
http://vfaq.com/mods/VINs.html

[spyderdrifter]

I did take pics of the block VIN after I got it back from the machine shop. I'l go compare that to the car VIN in a minute.


Ok, my block does in fact have a V for the 10th digit. Thanks NHerron. Will now be ordering the right tensioner.

So is that VFAQ for engines and the car alike? If so, my engine block came from a '97 AWD Talon.

[DSM1G90]

"VE063094" ... built in early autumn of 1997.

EDIT: Mitsu must have added the VIN to the 7 bolt blocks, for there is no VIN on my 6 bolt block when looking at the same position of the block where the one above is mentioned.

Course, my motor came out of a Galant VR4, thus the VIN for a Galant would be totally different than the DSM arrangement.

[NHerron]

So did you know about the engine swap that happened at one point? And yes that decoder works for any DSM. Good thing you checked!

[spyderdrifter]

Originally Posted by NHerron

So did you know about the engine swap that happened at one point? And yes that decoder works for any DSM. Good thing you checked!

I knew it had the turbo swapped, but not the block. Shoulda checked more things when the previous owner told me the transmission was rebuilt, yet when I had her email me the repair sheet, I could tell it wasn't rebuilt, but only had a couple gears replaced.

Originally Posted by DSM1G90

"VE063094" ... built in early autumn of 1997.

EDIT: Mitsu must have added the VIN to the 7 bolt blocks, for there is no VIN on my 6 bolt block when looking at the same position of the block where the one above is mentioned.

Which digit identifies the month? Didn't notice that on the vfaq.

[NHerron]

That's pretty cool, is she on the forums?

[spyderdrifter]

Originally Posted by NHerron

That's pretty cool, is she on the forums?

Doubtful, she was mostly oblivious to DSM specific questions I asked her.

[DSM1G90]

No, the month isn't in the VIN, but production year started in July and with an avg of 12000 units per month, a wild guess puts the build month either Sept or October.

Now, on the chassis sticker that is in the door pillar, there is a code that show when the car was build by a "MDH" (Month, Day, Hour) in the lower left hand of the sticker.

Mine was build in June of 1989, thus my "MDH" is 060912

[92 GSR-4]

Originally Posted by DSM1G90

Mitsu must have added the VIN to the 7 bolt blocks, for there is no VIN on my 6 bolt block when looking at the same position of the block where the one above is mentioned.

It's there on my original 6-bolt block in my 92 GSX. I've seen it on several other 6-bolts as well. That's usually the first thing I look for when checking out a car/motor, indicates whether the car has been messed with or not because you can see if the VIN matches.

[NHerron]

Or if his block VIN was a Mitsubishi number, you could put the VIN in the ASA/CAPS program, and it will tell you the week it was made.

My car was made in 1997 January, 2nd week

6bolt block was made 1990 December, 1st week

[DSM1G90]

Where do you find this 'ASA/CAPS' program? thx