2G: 1998 Magnus Built 2.4L

[Gomes]

as the title states i just picked up a 1998 eagle talon with a

Magnus 6 bolt 2.4L stroker
Magnus 1g SMIM
Magnus polished fuel rail
Barry Grant fuel pressure regulator
255lph Walbro pump
850cc Rochester injectors
Greddy Type RS BOV
Magnus UICP
Magnus FMIC
TurboSmart MBC
FP Red turbo
FP 4" aluminum intake pipe
HKS 272 cams
Fidanza cam gears
FP Race Exhaust Manifold
A'PEXi N1 turbo back.
AEM Plug/Play EMS stand alone ecu with laptop and aem software w/ NGK AFX sideband
HKS Turbo Timer
Exedy twin-disc clutch and flywheel
Evo JDM 3rd/4th spline.
2g trans with 1g internals with over-sized bearings and seals
Wilwood DynaPro Front BBK
KW Variant 3 way adjust coil overs

this car was built by Magnus Motorsports in Woodbridge,Ontario and tuned by them as well, after looking over the car more throughly I've come to realize the previous owner messed around and lost quite a few bolts and rigged it back together and now it has an idling problem. i believe the problem is when he removed the AC and now that there is no AC and it has the extra power now. it was tuned on AEM EMS just wondering if anyone knows anything about using this EMS and if the ac removal is the cause if the AC problem

[TurboAnything]

Sounds like you have a nice car but you are going to need to be more specific. The AEM is a popular standalone ecu but smooth operation is always been a problem. I think you need to do a lot more research. I would look into making a log file and posting it so we can see how the car is running. And no removing the AC should not affect the way the car runs especially on a AEM ecu.

[goodbye]

If it was built and tuned by Magnus, and you're within driving distance, I'd bring it back there. They'll get it running perfectly.

[Gomes]

i got the turbo and manifold off at the moment replacing all the exhaust gaskets it had a leak from the manifold to the turbo because he reused the gasket and it was in pieces when i took it apart i replaced the gasket with a new stainless steel 20ga, when i get the new gaskets and hardware and have it back together ill run a log file, but I'm not to sure how to run one as i have never used any tuning program before, any clues/input would be appreciated? the idle is around 350 -1250 and then when i get it idling it stays around 1000


edit
and it dies out if i push the clutch in to down shift from 2nd-1st or even if i rev the engine up above 1500 while in neutral and let off the gas,
it has no problem driving tho, just coming to a stop or slowing down

[jrohner]

The purpose of AC is to keep you cool in the car, not to make the car idle.

[Gomes]

Originally Posted by jrohner

The purpose of AC is to keep you cool in the car, not to make the car idle.

great observation. but it also puts more strain on the engine with the compressor to run, without it having that extra component to turn it frees up some power, when it was tuned to have ac.

if your not gonna give any sensible information please stfu

[jrohner]

That really makes sense...sure. Just because you have AC doesn't mean it's on all the time. When it's off, there is basically no load added to the engine. Idle problems are more apt to happen when the AC is turned on because of the extra load slowing the idle speed down.

Also, you have yet to tell what the idle issues actually are, so how can you expect helpful replies?



Your reply above has been reported. Have a wonderful day.

[LiquidX]

The added strain is less that 3 hp IIRC when the compressor clutch engages.

It's not really much at all. The main issue that occurs is the voltage drop when it engages and the ability for a proper working IAC to adjust to compensate for it.

[jrohner]

Yeah, the most load is probably the blower motor (if on high) causing more load on the alternator, which would be the same whether it's AC, vent, or heat.

I never have my ISC plugged in, and the AC still didn't really matter much for my idle.

Originally Posted by Gomes

edit
and it dies out if i push the clutch in to down shift from 2nd-1st or even if i rev the engine up above 1500 while in neutral and let off the gas,
it has no problem driving tho, just coming to a stop or slowing down

That sounds to me like you're running on an airflow sensor but venting the BOV.

[Gomes]

The AEM EMS system i am running in the 2g DSM Series II 10-6310, i changed all the gaskets from the exhaust manifold back and its still idiling terrible and dies out. how do i run a log file? ive never used any tuning software before.

[my98gsx]

pics?

[Gomes]

i am venting my BOV but I don't have MAF Im running a MAP

[Gomes]

So I did a boost leak test and the results were positive, for a leak coming from the injectors real bad one at that. Doesn't even hold 10 psi fr 5 seconds. So I m gonna replace all the o rings and do another one

[mustracetsi]

correct me if im wrong guys. not that it has to do with the thread but looking at that pic of your engine bay. is your catch can connected to the pcv back to the valve cover. doesn't it have to be from the pcv to intake and seprate catch for the other valve bung to something else

[Gomes]

fixed all boost/vacuum leaks. the problem ended up being that the throttle cable was way to loose and was closing the throttle body completely shut. runs mint now!

[snowborder714]

That sounds like it's an idle stop issue as the cable shouldn't be holding the throttle plate open.

[jrohner]

Sounds like you needed to adjust the BISS not the throttle cable. You won't have as consistent of an idle speed when you have the cable holding the throttle open like that -- heat expanding things make it change how much the throttle is open. You just need the throttle plate held open enough so it doesn't stick shut when it slams shut fast, that's not the correct way to adjust your idle.

[snowborder714]

The BISS isn't the correct way of adjusting it either

[IRONLUNG]

I think its the biss screw in need of adjusting or maybe needs a new oring.. there is another thread from this morning with the procedures on how to properly adjust the biss screw and your idle.

I had this issue as well, and it turned out to be a sensor on my TB. I considered the throttle cable adjustment as well but I did the TB swap first and it cleared it up.

from another thread: "make sure you dont pull back to much or you will pull the throttle open,and will make you idle higher"

basing your success on you adjusting your throttle cable, you may want to check your sensors just to be safe.

[Tiki2777]

This sounds exactly like my old idle issue that i recently fixed. You need to ground the ISC stepper motor (if you still have it.. but you should) and reset/set/adjust the idle by adjusting the BISS. I also deleted my fiav when doing this. I was able to ground it through evoscan.