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1g AWD weight loss

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Boosted DSM 32

10+ Year Contributor
681
3
Aug 21, 2011
McDonald, Ohio
My car is coming close to get ready to drop the new motor in and be ready to run again.. I was doing some playing around on the hp calculator and i noticed that if i can get my cars weight down to about 3040 with me in the car i could knock off an 11 second pass with 350whp which is a very possible number with my ported evo III 16g.

This is my daily driver and i would like to keep as most stuff i can in the car.. heres what i figured i could remove and probably be close to shedding about 200lbs which is what id need to get to my goal..

Rear seats
Cut carpet after the front seats
Remove all plastics in the rear
Spare tire and jack
A/C- cruise control delete
Front and rear bumper supports removed
Passenger seat removed for the track

I think this should total damn close if not more than 200lbs and should net me some super low 12 if not high 11 second pass with a good run any imput would be greatly appreciated :)
 
If you feel really froggy you can get second set of doors (for the track) and cut upt a crash beam in them. In 'normal' car it's there to protect driver and passengers if someone t-bones the car. There is not much of a chance of that happening at the track. Bar in each door is about a foot wide, as long as the door, very high strenth steel, and is very heavy. To remove it find the spot welds that are holding it ad drill/grind/cut them out (would suggest a grinder or maybe even a torch, the hardened steel dulls drillbits very quickly). The bar is also glued to the outside door skin, won't take much to break that loose. You'll be loosing about 50-60 pounds for both.

EDIT: If you have a Pull-a-part near you, they would ask about $80 for both doors. Also if you do go this route, take out the power locks/speakers/wiring, and even window open-close mechanism and glue the glass in place. That's another about 20 pounds of weight.
 
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Get a mini battery, remove emissions, scrape off the sound deadening.

I'd keep the plastics/rear seats in the car unless you have a roll bar in the car if only because driving around in a tin-can gets a little old after a while.

Consider getting a lighter seat (like a fiber bucket) and plugging the sunroof (if you have one).
 
Get a mini battery, remove emissions, scrape off the sound deadening.

I'd keep the plastics/rear seats in the car unless you have a roll bar in the car if only because driving around in a tin-can gets a little old after a while. The rear seat foam pulls out easy enough anyways.

Consider getting a lighter seat (like a fiber bucket) and plugging the sunroof (if you have one).
 
Hmm ok ill take a look at those doors that's a good idea to really shed some last minute pounds and that link is good too thanks guys! I would really like to drop about 200lbs so the car would be 3000lbs with me in it
 
Are you really wanting to remove your front and rear bumper support in a daily driver car??? You want to use your engine as a bumper. I wouldn't do that if I where you. Even a slow speed collision will do a LOT of damages if you don't have a front bumper support but it's your car
 
1000 AAQ - DSM factory specifications
Another link outlining curb weight of DSMs, among other things.

Depending on how much $$$ you are planning to invest, you can go as far as getting Carbon Fiber fenders, doors, hood, head light covers, hatch, seats, dash, intake maybe. Use Lexan or Speed Glass instead of regular glass. Replace suspention components with tubular ones. Install some lightweight racing wheels... And in the end what you will have is a $100,000 car that is only good for the track and not safe to drive on daily basis.

Will track let you run with nets instead of doors and hatch? That might be another option, although won't be as aerodynamic.
 
When I get the car running again its gonna be my daily driver and weekend track car I don't really want to take off doors and stuff for the track simply because I'd look like an idiot running 12s with body parts missing haha and yes my car is completely full weight down to the spare tire and jack I think I can get 200lbs off pretty easy with taking any body panels off.. And I'd like to stay away from carbon fiber for now too I'm not a big fan of it on a 1g basically any unnessary interior pieces and such is what I want to get rid of
 
Painted fiberglass/cf hood will drop around 30lbs.
5lb lithium battery, plus lose the stock battery tray, terminals and shorten the heavy gauge wiring.
3pc tubular front cross member
Fidanza flywheel is only 7.9lbs
surge tank will let you race safely with only a few lbs of fuel in the car
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/426784-1ga-1gb-headlight-conversion-its-not-hard.html
lightweight exhaust. My 321SS .035" race exhaust is only 11lbs
remove the heat shields on the tunnel and fuel tank cover
coil overs are a lot lighter than stock sized struts/springs. Megans are 22lbs lighter than a typical KYB/spring combo. Ksports are even lighter with their aluminum housings.
Aluminum IC pipes
 
Painted fiberglass/cf hood will drop around 30lbs.
5lb lithium battery, plus lose the stock battery tray, terminals and shorten the heavy gauge wiring.
3pc tubular front cross member
Fidanza flywheel is only 7.9lbs
surge tank will let you race safely with only a few lbs of fuel in the car
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/426784-1ga-1gb-headlight-conversion-its-not-hard.html
lightweight exhaust. My 321SS .035" race exhaust is only 11lbs
remove the heat shields on the tunnel and fuel tank cover
coil overs are a lot lighter than stock sized struts/springs. Megans are 22lbs lighter than a typical KYB/spring combo. Ksports are even lighter with their aluminum housings.
Aluminum IC pipes

Cant get rid of the pop ups i absolutely love them LOL and i really dont want to do a carbon hood or coilovers because im a broke college student. I'm going to school for welding so welding up a tubular front end would be easy which i was thinking about doing already because i would really like to get rid of the bumper supports thats alot of weight right there.

I already have a straight pipe exhaust and dont want to spend money there either. Basically i want to remove stuff thats free not buy stuff thats lighter
 
If you feel really froggy you can get second set of doors (for the track) and cut upt a crash beam in them. In 'normal' car it's there to protect driver and passengers if someone t-bones the car. There is not much of a chance of that happening at the track. Bar in each door is about a foot wide, as long as the door, very high strenth steel, and is very heavy. To remove it find the spot welds that are holding it ad drill/grind/cut them out (would suggest a grinder or maybe even a torch, the hardened steel dulls drillbits very quickly). The bar is also glued to the outside door skin, won't take much to break that loose. You'll be loosing about 50-60 pounds for both.

EDIT: If you have a Pull-a-part near you, they would ask about $80 for both doors. Also if you do go this route, take out the power locks/speakers/wiring, and even window open-close mechanism and glue the glass in place. That's another about 20 pounds of weight.

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