2G: Has anyone modified the upper control arm for lower suspension?

[Funfettie]

Hi there,
So i finally got around to installing a front camber kit this weekend after dropping coil-overs in last year. I havnt been driving the car too much, the inside of the tires are already bald. So i dropped an Ignalls kit in, and I have found the the upper control arm hits the strut tower, and it looks like a lot of people have experienced this issue.

So, I was wondering if anyone has shaved off a little of the control arm, or if theres an aftermarket arm that works better? The car is a daily driver, and i really like how it handles lowered, and it looks beautiful. I really dont want to raise it up any higher. Ideas?

Thanks
Tanner

[jtmcinder]

First, your tire-wear is almost definitely a toe issue, not a camber issue.

Second, to answer your question, yes, people have shortened the upper front A-arms, to get more camber without losing any travel to funky ball-joints causing the arm to hit the fender. I'm sure that you can find my description of what I did to Cinder without much effort.

[bryanwheat]

I would of went with this type of camber kit instead of the adjustable ball joints.



This would give you a lot more clearance.

[PieEyedPiper]

I read about just as many folks having clearance issues with that type. Since there are 2 versions of that type, a normal and an "exxxtreme" I'm guessing it's the extreme version people have issues with.

Eccentric bushings seem to be the best balance, though tricky to teach an ape how to setup. But on the bright side, they're less than $40 a side brand new.


EDIT: About the ape remark - it stands, but thinking about it I don't see how adjusting the anchor type would be any simpler than the bushing type. If the ape wants you to have wacky toe then you'll still get it.

[jtmcinder]

I think that what you're referring to is the fact that the extreme version can't be installed backwards. We install them backwards because we want more camber, not less. The small version can be installed backwards; the extreme version cannot.

[PieEyedPiper]

Originally Posted by jtmcinder

I think that what you're referring to is the fact that the extreme version can't be installed backwards. We install them backwards because we want more camber, not less. The small version can be installed backwards; the extreme version cannot.

Thanks.

[ACM]

Scott McIntyre is the guy for shortened upper arms - I don't remember Jtoby doing it, but if so I'm sure there will be an equally informative thread.

I tried a couple of different versions of the type bryanwheat illustrates - the problem with those is that they move, and then you trash the tyres from the toe change.

I have the type PieEyedPiper illustrates - they have never moved on me in probably 75-100k+ miles, but you don't get much extra camber from them - maybe .75-1* extra. But you need two sets of bushings, shims to stop them moving, and grease nipples to get 50k+ miles out of them. But I feel it's worth the extra effort if one goes with this type of camber adjustment.

[PieEyedPiper]

Originally Posted by ACM

Scott McIntyre is the guy for shortened upper arms - I don't remember Jtoby doing it, but if so I'm sure there will be an equally informative thread.

I tried a couple of different versions of the type bryanwheat illustrates - the problem with those is that they move, and then you trash the tyres from the toe change.

I have the type PieEyedPiper illustrates - they have never moved on me in probably 75-100k+ miles, but you don't get much extra camber from them - maybe .75-1* extra. But you need two sets of bushings, shims to stop them moving, and grease nipples to get 50k+ miles out of them. But I feel it's worth the extra effort if one goes with this type of camber adjustment.

Would you be able to go into further detail on how to "properly" utilize and maintain the eccentric bushings? At first glance it seems.. you know what, I don't even want to speculate.
I'm already getting weird ideas.

I really am turning my head upside down over the grease fittings though.

[Funfettie]

Originally Posted by bryanwheat

I would of went with this type of camber kit instead of the adjustable ball joints.



This would give you a lot more clearance.

Sorry, this looks very simmilar to what I have, thought they were made by ingalls. Does anyone happen to have pictures or measurements of there cars suspension? I'd like to see how low others have there ride setup and what you used to correct some or all camber

Originally Posted by jtmcinder

First, your tire-wear is almost definitely a toe issue, not a camber issue.

Second, to answer your question, yes, people have shortened the upper front A-arms, to get more camber without losing any travel to funky ball-joints causing the arm to hit the fender. I'm sure that you can find my description of what I did to Cinder without much effort.

Cinder? I'm not sure what your referring to here, was this maybe a type-o or autocorrect? Could you elaborate or maybe post a link for me? Tried searching for a little and couldn't pull anything. Thanks!

[jtmcinder]

I know I sold Cinder a long time ago, Charles, but I shortened my upper arms waaaay before Scott did. He asked me lots of questions on how I did it.

Grrrr.

ps. if it isn't clear now, Cinder is the car in my avatar

[PieEyedPiper]

Originally Posted by Funfettie

Sorry, this looks very simmilar to what I have, thought they were made by ingalls. Does anyone happen to have pictures or measurements of there cars suspension? I'd like to see how low others have there ride setup and what you used to correct some or all camber

I knew I wasn't crazy It seemed everyone assumed you were using the balljoint type. Ingalls does make a balljoint but these are the kits I think of when someone says their name. They seem to be much more common.

How much camber are you going for? What if you adjusted your values, would you gain any clearance? You might even try switching it around like jtoby mentioned and see if you not only get better clearance but maybe better camber, too.

[Funfettie]

Oh, cinder is the cars name. Got it.. I'll look around some more then. I'm going for 0• camber, the more traction, the better. Handleing won't be needed to much, cause I'll be going in a straight line most of the time. The car Is pushing right around 600 at the wheels, and is daily driven and is occasionally taken to the track. I just like the suspension there for more traction, looks and the lower center of gravity. There is maybe 1.5-1" between the fender and the tire.

I brought the tires to 0• but the control arms hit the fender/towers quite bad The kit is now backed off all the way, as far as it can go, and there barely missing the fenders. Issue come into play when I take the car in for alignment, I know they are going to need to push one or both sides out, (because the alignment is way off)and the control arms will hit

[bryanwheat]

You can always notch the section where the control arm is hitting also. Even with an adjustable control arm, your ball joint will sit in the same place to get the same camber that you are looking for.

[jtmcinder]

This is hilarious.

Someone talked about modifying the upper arms and we all assumed that he wanted more camber to get his pig to turn and it turns out he wants to get rid of camber for drag-racing.

Funfetti should probably just start over and, in the new thread, make it clear that he wants to get rid of camber.

[Funfettie]

Well, I should say Its strictly a daily driver, just taking it to the track to see what kind of times it will run and maybe 1 or 2 times a year with friends. But I'll start over. Thanks anyways guys

[2g_DSMer]

well i don't know how much this helps but i have had very bad luck with the Ignalls front camber kit. i had them on for about a year or so be for they straight up gave out and snapped an it was some scary shit i was pulling out of my drive way an hit a small pothole



i then switched over to a spc camber kit (adjustable ball joints) and i was having the same problem with lip of my control arm hitting so ended up shaving a small portion of it and its been working fine for me for the past 2+ year

[Funfettie]

Awesome, ill have to give that a shot. pretty sure im going to try shaving a little off the control arms, and a little off the towers as well, I dont want to weaken one more than the other. Thanks for all the advice guys, ill post back in a few weeks with updates on how it worked and maybe throw a few photos in too for future reference

[jtmcinder]

Can I ask what might seem to be a dumb or OT question? Yes? Thanks.

If you have 600 hp, then what do you have for a center diff? Yes, more front grip will help, so these threads of yours make sense, but you're still going to have to put a lot of (most of?) that down through the rears. So what do you have in the center?

[Funfettie]

It's a 4 spider center diff. Tre4th stage trans, shot peened everything, evo 1-5th gears, double sincro'd every gear. The rear has solid Al. bushings, and a frontline fab cover with the added support option. Can't remember the exact name for it at the moment. In case you were wondering.. It's all there, should be able to take the power for a while unless I beat on it in the wrong ways.

[jtmcinder]

So, it's a 4-spider with the OE VC? OK. Not optimal, but much less likely to break and still daily drivable. Cool.

[Funfettie]

thats a good question, i would guess its been upgraded, but ill have to look into it. I have the paperwork here somewhere... but yes, its very drivable on the streets, only tough part is working with the clutch. sucks trying to get it rolling from a stop going up hill though. Im lucky to have never had a cop behind me while doing this too. haha they probibly wouldnt like that too much..

[estoyaqui30]

I've been using the Ingalls adjustable mount points...in fact I am using the "extreme" as they are being called and I have never had a singe issue with them, other than after they have been on the car for a while and gotten rusty, they are not happy with being readjusted. At that loin one of them slipped and and when I went to re-adjust and retighten it, the bold broke. Fortunately I have a spare set of brand new ones, so I swapped it out and matched the position on the new one.