power steering pump - rebuild or new from parts store?

[Calan]

Opinions and sources/prices for either option please.

 

[DarthBulk]

If you do get a new one from the parts store, be VERY SURE you keep all the little pieces from yours before turning it in for a core. I made that mistake. That stupid little pressure switch on the front, doesn't come with a new one from the parts store. The only way to get one is to buy the ENTIRE pump from the dealer, for something like $650. Luckily I got one from the DSM graveyard.

Looks like they are about $118 at Rock Auto. Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto

 

[Calan]

Why is the pressure line the way it is? Couldn't you run the banjo fitting off the pump into a hard line like the return, or use AN fittings? How much pressure are we talking about here? It can't be more than high pressure fuel lines, which hold just fine with high pressure hoses and clamps....right?

It seems a bit ridiculous to have the pressure hose draped up over the driver-side motor mount the way they did, and I'm looking for ways to fix that

 

[DarthBulk]

Actually, the pressure can be quite high. I don't know the exact value, but on other cars I think the power steering pressure is around 900-1000 psi.

 

[Calan]

Actually, the pressure can be quite high. I don't know the exact value, but on other cars I think the power steering pressure is around 900-1000 psi.

That little pump can generate pressures like that, and it's mostly all dissipated through the rack? (relatively "weak" factory return line, compared to the feed side).

 

[DarthBulk]

Yes, it keeps the high pressure on the rack. There is a pressure relief valve in the pump that keeps it from going higher. The return line just for small quantities of low pressure fluid to go back to the reservoir.

 

[Simpleman1]

I did the cheaper route, bought a rebuilt from an auto parts supply and did not give them my original PS pump. The high pressure hose connector had mangled threads, so I returned it and they gave me another one. Installed the pressure regulator and switch from my original one. Did all the necessary bleeding, the pump only works above 3K RPM. So I took it off and returned it. They gave me another replacement, it leaked like crazy and noisy above 3K RPM. I decided to get the PS pump seal kit from Mitsubishi for $36 and rebuilt my own original pump and everything is good. Sorry for the long story, I just want to share my experience with 3 bad rebuilt PS pump.

 

[Calan]

I think I have most of a Mitsu seal kit somewhere. IIRC, I bought the whole kit but only replaced the HP outlet O-ring... I think. Any "gotchas" involved with the rebuild, or was it pretty straight forward?

Has anyone ever replaced the stock high pressure fitting with a stainless/AN fitting?

 

[Simpleman1]

I did not have any issues or any kind of surprice, I was following my OEM Service Manual. It was pretty straight forward. The shaft seal was a bit hard to pull out coz I did not have the right tool. I just carefully pried it with a screw driver. Be careful not to get any debris on any of the internal parts.

 

[MaNGiNa24]

Most of the pumps from the auto stores are actually rebuilt units (which is why they request your core). The units that are in fact new replacements usually go for much more than the standard $100 to $120.

Personally I'd go with whatever is well priced with a decent warranty. I went through 3 alternators from advanced auto in a row until I found a working unit. I know it's not a power steering pump but its a similar situation.

 

[Calan]

I ended up rebuilding mine, as well as modifying it to help with the high-RPM cutout issue...piece of cake.

I wrote a tech article on it that can be found here.

 

[pagosa dsm]

I just finish the low pressure hoses with jic black S.S. lines this last weekend.I am planning replacing the high pressure lines next.The factory recommends the high pressure should be 1,067-1,166psi.