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Just installed Tanabe rear sway-bar.

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Red97Eclipseboy

15+ Year Contributor
1,930
9
Feb 3, 2004
Chicagoland, Illinois
Today, we finished installing my Tanabe rear-sway on my GS-T, along with new rear sway-bar end-links. And I must say, what an absolute difference! It got rid of so much under-steer. Off-throttle over-steer is scary now. I have to practice my technique with this new sway-bar so I don't get uncontrollable snap over-steer. Which is too cool because I'm FF.

I highly recommend this bar to any FF. It's 18mm and clears my Apex-N1 with ease. No issues at all. :thumb: I can use the throttle to exit a turn far more than before. I used to rely on diving into the corner fast to make up for the lack of powering out of a corner, but that's not the case anymore. I'm sure I'll still use that method; however, I can make much better use of it now.

Best part I've installed in years.

Reggie
 
I hate you. :cry: My RM Racing rear sway bar is waiting to be installed because of the stupid end links won't come off.
I took us torches, saws, air tools, impacts, etc... It was such a pain. But please, do not give up! The install is so easy and the end result is far too rewarding.
excellent purchase. GSTs with a good rear sway really become much more neutral and easier to drive. Enjoy it!
Absolutely. Enjoy I shall!
I wonder pros vs cons of the Tanabe and the RM bars.. both FWD and AWD.
Not sure. All I know is I love this rear-bar. I guess one pro for Tanabe & con for RM is that Tanabe always offers a rear-bar for the FF cars.
It could be the same. RM bar is also 18mm for FWD.
Yup!
 
I took us torches, saws, air tools, impacts, etc... It was such a pain. But please, do not give up! The install is so easy and the end result is far too rewarding.

Absolutely. Enjoy I shall!

Not sure. All I know is I love this rear-bar. I guess one pro for Tanabe & con for RM is that Tanabe always offers a rear-bar for the FF cars.

Yup!

Do you think it is good to do the front and rear or mainly the rear? Do you have any other suspension mods like the prothan ebushing kit?

Edit: I was looking at this kit eBay Motors: ST FRONT & REAR ANTI SWAY BAR SET 95-99 ECLIPSE ALL (item 200184822108 end time Jun-13-08 10:36:53 PDT)
 
Do you think it is good to do the front and rear or mainly the rear? Do you have any other suspension mods like the prothan ebushing kit?

Edit: I was looking at this kit eBay Motors: ST FRONT & REAR ANTI SWAY BAR SET 95-99 ECLIPSE ALL (item 200184822108 end time Jun-13-08 10:36:53 PDT)

Well, the GS-T and GSX come with factory sway-bars. I left the front one stock, and upgraded the rear to 18mm. The factory rear is only 12 or 13mm. Since you're FF, too, just do the rear bar. If you can, throw a factory front on (unless you already have one) to keep a decent balance. But, a stiffer rear suspension on a FF car will alleviate so much under-steer. Which is our biggest enemy.

Check my profile for my other mods.

Also, for what it's worth, even Lotus says for a FF, to leave the front bar stock and upgrade the rear. :thumb:

Edit: And try to stick with Tanabe or RM sways.


Reggie
 
Yeah I used a Suspension Techniques rear sway bar with adjustable end links on my 91 TSI FWD... the handling difference was AMAZING. It made the whole car feel a lot stiffer and I can now take corners way more aggressively than before.

I wonder though, what's the deal with the adjustable endlinks? I do not know how adjusting them will make a difference. They have three different holes for the end links to go in, but .... ermmmm... what will moving it one way or the other do? Right now it's in the center setting.

This is a MASSIVE improvement for anyone using FWD, if you put one on your car you will not be disappointed I guarantee that.
 
I wonder though, what's the deal with the adjustable endlinks? I do not know how adjusting them will make a difference. They have three different holes for the end links to go in, but .... ermmmm... what will moving it one way or the other do? Right now it's in the center setting.
.
Moving the links to the inner (closer) holes will make the bar more responsive, the outer holes will make it seem softer. It helps to tune mid-turn balance, mostly.

The location changes the leverage applied to the bar: longer arm/more leverage=less torque output from the bar.

More to the point: Outer hole=more understeer, inner=you get the idea.
 
So you think puttin both on will put the balance back the wrong way and only doing the rear is wise? Ok and the suspension Tech bar is like thicker that's why I was leaning that way.
 
So you think puttin both on will put the balance back the wrong way and only doing the front is wise? Ok and the suspension Tech bar is like thicker that's why I was leaning that way.

Doing only the front is a terrible idea. You'll under-steer like no tomorrow. I said to try an find an OEM front, and an upgraded for the rear.
 
Doing only the front is a terrible idea. You'll under-steer like no tomorrow. I said to try an find an OEM front, and an upgraded for the rear.
This assumes the new one is larger/stiffer. When I was looking at anti sway bars, I found the front S/T for a 1g to be a bit smaller than the stocker. 2g's may be otherwise.
 
Doing only the front is a terrible idea. You'll under-steer like no tomorrow. I said to try an find an OEM front, and an upgraded for the rear.

I said do both not just the front. I am def doing the back sonds liek it's a great mod but what about the front shoudl I do the front too or no. The kit for both is 300 which is very reasonable. I would do that and a prothane bushing kit at the same time.


edit: sorry I reread my post i said front I meant back/rear
 
Do both clear a N1 style exhaust that's JDM style where it hooks underneath then goes on an angle? My car is lowered drastically and I need to it clear the exhaust yet not be too low cause it will scrape the ground.
 
MacV is having a sale for like $89 for the rear bar. Only thing tha sucks is if you didn't have one stock cough cough NT eclipse cough cough :mad: you need a $150 install kit. I found a kit for 300 for both front and rear in suspension tec but it sounds like stock these cars are so unbalnced that you want to only do the rear to get the balance back and doing the front would kinda swing the balance back the other way a little am I looking at this right?
 
I wonder what material Tanabe is using for the result that your explaining. I eneded up going to a 27mm rear bar which was a one off piece but if that 18mm bar is stronger material it may be equivalent. It was night and day on the handling if I dont stay on the gas mid corner it'll come around on me which is perfect on a FWD where you get all your cornering done on entry and just ride the gas pedal the whole rest of the track.
 
I don't road race or autoX but I'm building my car to be able a kinda do it all car as much as possible. I was gonna go all out on the drag end but it's just not worth it as I'm looking to get a bike now that I have my M endorsment. This on the rear and a tanabe front brace should make for a very god handeling car seeing hwo I already have coilovers. I might even look into the prothane busghing kit too.
 
I wonder what material Tanabe is using for the result that your explaining. I eneded up going to a 27mm rear bar which was a one off piece but if that 18mm bar is stronger material it may be equivalent. It was night and day on the handling if I dont stay on the gas mid corner it'll come around on me which is perfect on a FWD where you get all your cornering done on entry and just ride the gas pedal the whole rest of the track.

What do you mean that if you don't stay on the gas it will "come around on you"?
 
I wouldnt use chassis stiffening as a means to control balance of a car even if you do get more grip out of lessened chassis flex you just shouldnt use it that way. Also assuming that tanabe bar lessens front flex and that puts your tire in proper position it increases front end grip. Increased front end grip makes your front more stuck than your rear. This makes your car more tail happy not less.
 
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