Will ARP Evo Wheel Studs fit our cars? [merge 12/5/06]

[Ludachris]

Just wondering. I couldn't find specs for them, but RRE is selling the KYO-EI studs and they mention that those will "fit all common modern Mitsubishi cars". If this is true, then it would seem that the EVO and the DSM share the same wheel stud specs? Anyone know for sure?

 

[Dream On]

I would call RRE and ask. I've called them before asking for help on problems and they have always been really helpful and cool about it. Plus since they're selling them and have likely used them, they'd know.

 

[SAKONE]

Wheel stud specs? You mean thread sizing? You referring to the longer wheel studs, right?

 

[BaddAssGst]

According to a book of wheel stud part numbers that I have, both the Evo and DSM have interchangeable part numbers. The Evo's do list 2 part numbers, quite possibly that they are the shorter ones and also the longer ones that RRE talk about. So I would see no reason why they wouldn't work and with 22mm extra, should allow for some wider wheels.

 

[Ludachris]

I just want to see what my options are. If the ARP's are longer than stock, but shorter than the KYO's then I'd rather go for those. I don't need them quite that long, and I'm guessing the ARP's might be slightly stronger.

In the end, it will depend on which ones I can get here faster.

 

[BaddAssGst]

I just want to see what my options are. If the ARP's are longer than stock, but shorter than the KYO's then I'd rather go for those. I don't need them quite that long, and I'm guessing the ARP's might be slightly stronger.

In the end, it will depend on which ones I can get here faster.

How long of studs do you need and are you doing this for wider wheels? I'm not sure if the ARPs would be longer then stock because it would probably be a stock replacement. This is really the first I've seen of the longer studs for a Mitsu so I'm not sure if you'll find anything in between.

 

[Ludachris]

Turns out the ARP's are longer than the KYO's. I'll probably just go with the KYO's.

 

[BaddAssGst]

Turns out the ARP's are longer than the KYO's. I'll probably just go with the KYO's.

Do you know how much longer they actually are? As opposed to stock and the KYOs?

Might as well make this thread informative.

 

[Ludachris]

The guy at ARP told me they're 3" long. The KYO's are 52mm, which is a hair over 2", and the stock studs are 30mm, which is just over an inch long. Unfortunately, the guy wasn't sure if that measurement was the thread length or the entire stud. I didn't want to take the chance.

 

[logic]

Since I was searching around for wheel stud information and came across this thread, I figured I'd add a bit of information to it. First, data on the size of our wheel studs:

(From http://www.dsm.org/archives/1999/01/19990115.txt/4.html)
The stock studs are a WAGNER (should be able to find at your local part
store or cross reference) part # BD60958, which corresponds to an M12 x 1.5
x 1 5/8" with a knurl diameter of 0.564 and an M19 headwork (splines).

According to ARP's website, the Evo studs have a .565" knurl (.27" tall), and are threaded M12x1.5. That sure sounds like a fit to me.

The 3" number is in reference to the entire stud (minus the backing cap behind the knurl). Knocking the nose length of .35" off that, as well as the knurl length of .565", you end up with 2.085" of thread, and I'd bet that the knurl step-down is right around .085".

So, it sounds like the ARPs and the Kyokugen studs are pretty much the same thing.

For future reference, in case ARP takes that catalog page offline, I've attached the diagram of the stud. From the chart:

Application: Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VIII
A Knurl Dia.: .565
L1 UHL: 3.000
L2 Knurl Length: .270
L3 Nose Length: .350
Thread Size: M12x1.5
Part No.: 100-7717​

 

[ACM]

Evo ARP studs do fit DSMs (unless you have 2G hubs from NAPA, which use smaller knurl diameter), the part #s for OEM Evo & DSM studs are the same. The ARPs are longer, they also have a useful lead-in before the threads start.

I switched to ARP wheel studs after snapping all 5 Kyoto studs mid-run and my RF wheel went walkabout.

 

[Zex4g63]

Evo ARP studs do fit DSMs (unless you have 2G hubs from NAPA, which use smaller knurl diameter), the part #s for OEM Evo & DSM studs are the same. The ARPs are longer, they also have a useful lead-in before the threads start.

I switched to ARP wheel studs after snapping all 5 Kyoto studs mid-run and my RF wheel went walkabout.

Not just NAPA. I have a BCA hub assembly in my car that is from my store. It appears they only are a direct fit for OEM hubs. I just drilled my one hub out. No problems.

 

[eclipse2via]

I switched to ARP wheel studs after snapping all 5 Kyoto studs mid-run and my RF wheel went walkabout.

I'll second the ARP studs being a better choice. I have a few acquaintances who have busted the RRE kyo studs on track, one a catastrophic 5 studs and lost a wheel somewhere above 80mph mid corner at Thunderhill.

 

[WatchItExplode]

I'll second the ARP studs being a better choice. I have a few acquaintances who have busted the RRE kyo studs on track, one a catastrophic 5 studs and lost a wheel somewhere above 80mph mid corner at Thunderhill.

sheesh, I've never heard of such a thing. The wheels on these cars were hubcentric and all?

 

[eclipse2via]

http://www.norcalevo.net/forum/index.php/topic,13499.0.html

Evo with spacer and running 5zigen FN01R-C. Generally the need for longer studs is for running a spacer and weird offset wheels.

 

[ITSME4G63]

Hey guys, I'm wondering what the knurl size is for the dsm wheel studs? Arp lists a .485 & a .509, which is the proper size? THanks.

Damian.

 

[Caithness]

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224950&highlight=wheel+stud+knurl

 

[ITSME4G63]

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224950&highlight=wheel+stud+knurl

Yes I saw that, but still, I saw another thread where defiant noted that the .485 would be ok, but per this thread, the .565 would be ok?

Damian.

 

[jtmcinder]

Given that .565 is what we have stock (see the posted link), I'll go out on a limb and say .565 should work. As to using a smaller knurl, that's just crazy, with one exception: some after-market hubs for DSMs are made for a smaller knurl, such as the ones you get from NAPA. In that case, you need to use whatever the hubs are designed for, which could be .485, for all I know.

- Jtoby

ps. Defiant's "those will be fine" comment applied to the studs in the link in that thread; since the link is dead, we can't be sure that Our Fearless Leader was really saying something silly or not; I, for one, am all in favor of assuming he was, but that's really my problem, isn't it?

 

[Defiant]

ps. Defiant's "those will be fine" comment applied to the studs in the link in that thread; since the link is dead, we can't be sure that Our Fearless Leader was really saying something silly or not;

Actuwawwy, I'm vewy, vewy frightened.

 

[Caithness]

How much are you guys paying for the ARP studs? I checked summit which is usually among the cheapest for stuff like this and they're 35 bucks for 5, 140 dollars a set .
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294863804+400295+4294779949+115&autoview=sku

Only 2 bucks cheaper at NOPI... I was planning to buy new nuts/studs and start torquing them properly as my current nuts/studs have seen a lot of impact abuse, but that's a lot of dough. Lug nuts aren't bad, though- the Summit lug nuts are only 2.95 a set of four. I can stomach 15 bucks much more easily than 140.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...sview=sku&Nao=0&Ns=P_SRE_DisplayPrice|0#rstop

 

[drivemusicnow]

ARP wheel studs are ridiculously expensive.

This is why I recommend spending the coin on wheels that are the proper offset and hubcentric.

But that's just me.

 

[jtmcinder]

The only time I saw a car snap some lugs, the wheels were OE (and didn't have spacers). It's more a question of how often you loosen and tighten them (i.e., change wheels) and whether they undergo extreme heat cycles (such as when you heat up your rotors and then go sit in grid). If these are true for you, don't mess around with cheap lugs.

- Jtoby

 

[delta448]

ARP wheel studs are ridiculously expensive.

-Can't seem to find OEM studs any cheaper though... everyone wants to sell them as a whole set of 20.

Here's my dilemma; I have 2 broken studs beside each other on the driver's front hub. Pounded them out of the hub 4 days ago and have been trying to find replacements for just as long. I can spend $40 plus shipping for 5 ARP's or I can spend $50 plus shipping for 20 OEM studs. Neither option is looking very good. I tried the local Advance, bunch of retards there, didn't want to order any for me. Anybody know where I can get less than 20 new OEM studs or buy the ARPs cheaper?

-Btw, sorry for digging this thread out of the graveyard but it's all I could find that was very relevant.

 

[tsunari]

Just a quick note & re-cap

Stock hub:
> Hole ~ 13.90mm / .547"
> Knurl ~ 14.30mm / .563"

Replacement hub:
> Hole ~ 12.30mm / .484"
> Knurl ~ 12.50mm / .492"

So if you have a non-OE hub, you may need to open the holes up a bit. The best drill-bit to use would be a

35/64" Drill Bit:
~ 13.8906mm / .546875"

Otherwise grab a 1/2" bit then use a dremel with a carbide bit to open the hole up just a touch more (be sure not to over-do it though).