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ARP wheel studs needed for drag racing?

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I pretty sure they are unnecessary. The only important thing about the wheels is having a certain amount of threads for the lug nuts and a metal valve stem. Cant think of how many they want off the top of my head though...
 
I pretty sure they are unnecessary. The only important thing about the wheels is having a certain amount of threads for the lug nuts and a metal valve stem. Cant think of how many they want off the top of my head though...

Found it in the rule book. The thread
engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut, or lug bolts to
wheel hubs, must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter
of the stud/bolt. Length of the stud/bolt does not determine
permissibility. (Example: A 7/16-inch stud must be thoroughly
engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug a
minimum of 7/16-inch
 
Yeah, that rule is a pita. They word the stuff screwy too. Here's a picture to help any that might find this thread in the future. DSM's with stock type wheels should be fine. This is an issuewith like a weld wheel where the damn center is so thick you need ultra long studs to meet the requirement.

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Funny you mention this because I just put on a set of Weld Wheels on my car and the stud only goes about halfway through the lug nuts. Lol. I'm about to order a new set of studs tomorrow. Just wondering how big of a pain it's gonna be to change them being that the studs will be longer than stock and probably not as easy to squeeze in there. Hmmmm....
 
They aren't required, just enough length and open ended lug nuts are. However, they are a smart idea if you start pushing big power. Slicks put a lot more stress on them. But you'd likely need bead seals before a stud upgrade.
 
Mine just shipped out today. Just hoping they're easy enough to change out. Trying to prep for racing on the 11th and I have a lot to do to this car before that day gets here.
 
"V8's are slow".. I just noticed your name.. LOL

No offense, but I just need to throw this out there. It's great to have love for your car, but no 4 banger or DSM for that matter has ever come close to taking on my vette. That's the one I drag race in and how I know the rules of the strip. The rules are dependent on the time class you are racing in anyway. Say you are running 13's, they really aren't going to care what you have, it's not a high enough danger zone. My C5 runs 9.8s without the nitrous and thats where they are checking for updated seats and harnesses, drive shaft loop, open ended lug studs, exposed axle ends, nitrous dump tubes, battery kill switch, flame retardant jacket etc. etc. etc.

It takes a hell of a lot to make a 4cyl come close to a v8. You can do anything to a v8 you can to a 4, and obviously the 8 will make much more power mod for mod. Don't get me wrong, I'm liking my GST, but it's got nothing on any camaro, trans am, or vette ive owned. Just throwing that out there because Honda guys and DSMers get a bad wrap for a lot of $h!t talking and a 9 times out of 10 a vastly overestimated amount of performance to back it up. That goes for handling too. Poor handling v8's are a thing of the past.

Yes, the extended lug studs can be a pain to install since stock hubs are designed with just enough room to knock the stock size out. A lot of times the hub will have to be removed to fit the longer studs in. I haven't done them on a DSM, but it was that way on my vette.

Happy racing everyone!
 
"V8's are slow".. I just noticed your name.. LOL

No offense, but I just need to throw this out there. It's great to have love for your car, but no 4 banger or DSM for that matter has ever come close to taking on my vette. That's the one I drag race in and how I know the rules of the strip. The rules are dependent on the time class you are racing in anyway. Say you are running 13's, they really aren't going to care what you have, it's not a high enough danger zone. My C5 runs 9.8s without the nitrous and thats where they are checking for updated seats and harnesses, drive shaft loop, open ended lug studs, exposed axle ends, nitrous dump tubes, battery kill switch, flame retardant jacket etc. etc. etc.

It takes a hell of a lot to make a 4cyl come close to a v8. You can do anything to a v8 you can to a 4, and obviously the 8 will make much more power mod for mod. Don't get me wrong, I'm liking my GST, but it's got nothing on any camaro, trans am, or vette ive owned. Just throwing that out there because Honda guys and DSMers get a bad wrap for a lot of $h!t talking and a 9 times out of 10 a vastly overestimated amount of performance to back it up. That goes for handling too. Poor handling v8's are a thing of the past.

This was all inspired by his username? Haha The V8 guys do a lot of overestimating themselves!
 
yeah WTF man. I'm pretty sure my dsm, will take your vette, and it's a pretty basic setup nothing exotic...

Thats laughable honestly. Whatever, the point of my post was to help our community sound less like tools. But some can't be helped I guess. My vettes pretty basic too, has a cam and some gears shoved in along with some slicks. Your DSM is not basic if its hitting 9s. Nice try.
 
One issue to watch out for is if any of the hubs have been replaced they may have smaller holes where the studs seat into them. The rears are easily done by drilling a hole in the backer plate or removing the hub completely. The fronts clear without removing the hub.
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Thats laughable honestly. Whatever, the point of my post was to help our community sound less like tools. But some can't be helped I guess. My vettes pretty basic too, has a cam and some gears shoved in along with some slicks. Your DSM is not basic if its hitting 9s. Nice try.

Why are we discussing your Vette or my username in this post? You have no idea what my car will run at the track, and this is totally unrelated to the post or even the forum. This is where guys come to research answers to what they need and then end up having to read through tons and tons of unrelated crap just to FINALLY find the answer they're looking for. Lol. Let's keep this on topic please, and if we HAVE to meet at a track somewhere to show who has the bigger *ick, we can do that at a gay bar but I won't be showing up. Let's keep it off of this post please ;)

MacGyver, thanks for the input.
 
Got most of mine done but it hasn't been fun. I took out the rear bearing assembly as opposed to taking off all of the emergency brake springs and stuff. Wasn't much fun but the front has been even harder. Wouldn't think that would be the case but the right front has an issue getting the rotor over the studs now that they're installed. Guessing maybe they might still need to be pulled through another hair or 2 to get them straight.

The left front was a complete nightmare. I tried and tried but I couldn't get them to even start pulling through. Luckily I have a thread repair tool which I had to use cause it messed up a couple of threads near the end. Gave up on that and pulled the bearing assembly out and tried to press them in but that just bent the metal that the studs go through. So instead, I pulled a bearing out of a parts car that's currently in my driveway. The rotor doesn't wanna go over the studs for that set either so might be the same ordeal with that one as well.

Just gave up dealing it with it for the time being. I'll finish it later when I'm not so sore. Ugghhh, sucks getting old.
 

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Sounds like you ran into the replacement hubs with smaller holes . Some aftermarket hub assemblies have smaller shoulders on the wheel studs hence smaller holes for them to seat into. A visit to the local machine shop is the (best) fix for this problem. Bring or measure the holes in an appropriate hub so they know what size to step the smaller holes up to. Or get an appropriate size drill bit and have at it. I recomend you take your time and try not to go off center while drilling . I generally use a step bit to start as they self center fairly well. Then finish with the appropriate size drill bit.
 
Yeah, no need for all that. I pulled a bearing out of a parts car and using that to get it done.
 
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