is this crankwalk???

[Bruno96]

on the way home from work today i got on it hard for a second or two and when i did the clutch peddle hit the floor and would not come back up i got the car to a gas station and checked to see if i had clutch fluid and it was empty i filled it up and and the clutch peddle moved fine tried starting the car and put it into gear but it wouldnt go into gear and now when i rev the motor the peddle drops i think i remember this being one of the problems whaen my master cylender went out but i cant remember please help!!!

 

[IslandTSI]

You might just have a big leak in your clutch hyrdraulic system somewheres. Get under the car and check for leaks. Pull the boot back on the slave cylinder and see if there is fluid there. If so replace it.

Also check under the dash ans see if there is fluid around the top of the clutch.

 

[highpsi93tsi]

clutch slave cylinder??

 

[Bruno96]

thats what i thought to until i reved the motor to about 5000 to 6000 rpm and the pedal fell to the floor is that still a symtom of the clutch system

 

[Gst18]

You have a leak in somewhere in the clutch slave cylinder line.
What you have to do is find the leak.
Start off by bleeding the system. (the clutch fluid reservoir is on the right of the brake fluid reservoir)
Fill up the system with fluid.(make sure u check the fluid from time to time as u bleed the system)
Then have someone open the line as you push down on the clutch. (the fitting is towards the front of the transmission... next to a rubber accordian boot)
Have them close it before you release the clutch.
Repeat process until you recieve a steady flow of brake fluid out of the slave cylinder.

Now comes the harder part. Figure out where your leak is coming from.
(Check in these places) Slave cylinder, and clutch pedal. If no leaks are present follow the line back to the firewall and make sure u dont have any kinks, or anything that can cause a leak.

Good luck i hope this helps

 

[Bruno96]

thanks guy

 

[pSimytSi]

I see this threads really old but I had a similiar thing happen today. Got on it pretty hard and it felt like the clutch or something slipped reaching top of 3-4th, the rpms increased but the driveline wasn't engaged. This happend to me once before a few weeks back when I pushed it hard on the highway. Also 5-6k full boost and 3rd or 4th gear then too.

But this time the clutch stayed near the floor for about 5 seconds and either popped back out on its own or I got it by moving it a few times.

Kept it easy after that was close to home but it felt normal. Checked clutch fluid and its full. New act 2100 and fidanza lw flywheel 900 miles ago with fully rebuilt+forged longblock. Big 16g at 14psi.

Going on a test ride to see if it happens again and try some left turns and circles to check the

Anyone want to lend some knowledge?

Just went for a 20min ride. Clutch felt normal on startup-take off never fell to the floor. Went into a lot doingcircles in first gear-neutral and the clutch still felt normal. Then drove around town for a bit looking for all the curvy uncongested roads. Never got on it to hard but the clutch held and everything seemed normal.

To much power for the 2100 or something else?

 

[JusMX141]

I like how anytime someone's clutch pedal goes to the floor, it's crankwalk.

Here's how you know if it's crankwalk....

- If your car has a slight miss when it's cold that goes away when it warms up, it's crankwalk.
- If your car feels like it pulls to one side while braking, it's crankwalk.
- If your car grinds a little going into second under hard acceleration, it's crankwalk.
- If you suddenly develop a boost leak, or the car doesn't hold boost the whole way to redline, it's crankwalk.
- If you buy injectors that are way too big for your application, it's crankwalk.

 

[pSimytSi]

So what could be my problem? It pulls to one side a bit when braking. Crankwalk?

 

[JusMX141]

Yes, if it pulls to the driver's side.

 

[pSimytSi]

It pulls the other way, towards the ditch. Now honestly it did grind on me a few times today and that usually dosn't happen. Might have been just me being nervous about the walk and messing up.

Bigger better twin disc clutch and SS line solve my problem or should i look to master-slave?

 

[JusMX141]

You're not slipping a 2100 in 900 miles with a 16G @ 14psi unless you're a horrible driver.

Try bleeding the system and see if that helps. You may just have some air leftover from the install.

 

[pSimytSi]

I'll try it (bleeding) tomorrow if someones around to help me push the clutch. It's deffinetly NOT the driver. Anyways it happens when wot reaching the 6k mark of 3rd and 4th.

 

[dylnwit]

I see this threads really old but I had a similiar thing happen today. Got on it pretty hard and it felt like the clutch or something slipped reaching top of 3-4th, the rpms increased but the driveline wasn't engaged. This happend to me once before a few weeks back when I pushed it hard on the highway. Also 5-6k full boost and 3rd or 4th gear then too.

But this time the clutch stayed near the floor for about 5 seconds and either popped back out on its own or I got it by moving it a few times.

Kept it easy after that was close to home but it felt normal. Checked clutch fluid and its full. New act 2100 and fidanza lw flywheel 900 miles ago with fully rebuilt+forged longblock. Big 16g at 14psi.

I'm not really sure what's causing the slipping feeling (maybe the slave is hanging on the way back out or something like that), but the clutch pedal staying near the floor for a few seconds definitely sounds like a slave or master cylinder. Like it was said above, pull the boot on the slave back, check for fluid, if you find any, replace it (rebuild kit for the slave is about $15, complete new slave is in the $35 to $60 range). If no luck on that end, go though, check all the lines, and if you still can't find anything, check your master. And if you have to replace/rebuild either cylinder, go ahead and do the other one while your at it.

 

[JusMX141]

It's possible your clutch just needs adjusted, too.....which probably hasn't been done since the new clutch was installed. If you had to remove freeplay from the system with the old, worn clutch, then the system is probably over-adjusted for the new setup.

Watch this video:

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