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Shortblock Transmission Mounting Ear Snapped off

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VTEC_THIS

15+ Year Contributor
1,137
19
Jul 20, 2006
Tampa, Florida
Was going to build this engine but just noticed that the mounting hole on the corner of the shortblock that mounts up to the transmission is completely snapped off and missing. Is there anything that can be done to repair this? I don't have the original piece that snapped off, I received the engine like this and didn't notice it until now. Even if I did have the piece that broke off, from what I understand, cast iron is pretty difficult to weld and doesn't hold up very well.

Yesterday I just received the Wiseco "HD" forged stroker pistons that I was planning on putting in this block. The block is also o-ringed so I'm definitely bummed about the situation. I would really like to use this block, especially since it's already o-ringed but at the same time I'm not going to take a chance and use it if there will be any ill effects. I'm also a bit concerned since the part that's missing holds one of the dowel pins to align the transmission and I don't want this to put any additional pressure on the transmission if it's not aligned properly. :(

If it matters any, the engine will be going in our 2G and will be putting out 420whp at the minimum with a TRE stage 3 transmission.

Here's a picture to describe what I'm talking about:
 

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That spot is critcal because of the dowel that would go in that position. If the dowel is not there you will have clutch issues. It sucks but I would look for another block. The o ring service if you find the right shop isn't that expensive and it would cost about what it would to fix that broken ear.
 
Keri, I agree with John. If I were in your shoes, I'd probably source out a replacement block. If you still had the piece that broke off, then I'd say you can give welding a try. Back in the day, Dan broke that ear off his built 2.3L block. He still had the ear though so we welded it back on and he never had an issue with it. Welding cast iron does suck and it isn't the most reliable of materials, but it can and has been done successfully. But unless you find the missing piece, I'd probably shop for a replacement block.
 
Thank you for the quick responses, I do appreciate it. We just pulled the engine from our car so we can use that block instead of the damaged one above. We'll look into getting the block o-ringed, hopefully we can find a machinist who will do the job for a reasonable price. If we don't get the block o-ringed we'll most likely end up using a Fel-Pro PermaTorque HG, but preferably we would like to use a composite HG with an o-ringed block. :thumb:
 
I had that exact ear break off way back when, I was able to weld it with a special rod and it held great, but yeah, without that part, you're screwed.
 
hello keri...So idk how many years it has been since I've bought a short block from you, but this thread is linked to the short block I've bought from you, and i think its really messed up you didn't tell me at the time of the sale about the ear breaking off, after having the engine installed into my car i still haven't driven it because that ear caused problems and i didn't notice the weld on it until the engine was being bolted up to the transmission. Not only that but the fact that you knew it was messed up and didn't tell me at the time of sale is not right at all.

I also noticed on the inside of the block theres a good chuck of iron missing from the "skeleton" of the short block, the cylinder walls are scuffed and i never even got to drive the car after going through so much to get everything installed at the time because of my financial situation at the time. I remember you guys 'moved' from nj and I have tried contacting you multiple times. please reply or contact me, id greatly appreciate it!

could you please contact me
347-885-9382 -David
 
This one's an oldie.

Just and FYI for anyone that breaks this year off and needs to weld it back on; You'll need to use silicon bronze filler rod and weld it on the AC setting. Grind out a V channel along where you'll be welding to get a nice deep weld and penetration. Pre-heat to the area with a propane or MAP gas torch prior to welding.

This applies to any cast iron welding or repair. If done properly, it won't crack while cooling.
 
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