Am I forgetting anything?

[RipperXX]

Other than gaskets am I forgetting anything here? I am getting ready to buy the parts for my engine rebuild.

OEM head gasket
A1 Tech. Race head studs
ARP main studs
ARP rod bolts
Scat Pro 4340 Forged H-Beam connecting rods
J&E 8.5:1 pistons
Ferrea Exhaust valve seals
Ferrea Intake valve seals
Topline Revised lifters
Ferrea valve locks
ACL Race Tri-metal Rod Bearings
ACL Race Tri-metal main bearings
Supertech valves
Brian Crower Valve springs & Retainer kit
Balance Shaft Eliminator kit



Also any sudjestions? I was thinking maybe Wiseco pistons insted of J&E? I was thinking about replacing my valves too but I am not sure I can afford anything to really make it worth it. I kind of wanted the Evo sodium filled exhaust valves...


Also I am still considering which cams to go with. I just want something to make a little more power and keep it from falling on it's face. But it seems 264's are becoming more rare . I think HKS & DKS are the only vendors that still make them? I was thinking them or maybe BC 272's since BC does not offer 264 anymore.

 

[absolute_DSM]

sudjestions?

Wow, never seen that one before.


Oil pump, water pump, timing components....

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Um... ok here goes...

Your forgetting a lot of things.....

First off there's nothing wrong with J E Pistons (except they cost to much for what you get). Wiseco's are good and they come with a skirt coating front the factory. Mahle pistons are good because there lighter then J E and Wiseco's, and they come with a coating from the factory.

As for the valves I'd look into some that are Nitride coated (hardened) and call it a day. Not sure why you'd want sodium filled valves anyway?

A1 studs are great (not for the price) and are only worth the money if your making close to 1000 hp. ARP's hold just fine with the right head gasket. Speaking of head gaskets, make sure you get the MLS mitsu one, not that composite one. I'd add bronze valve guides to your list as well.

Cam choice is more based apon what turbo your going to use and how high you have to rev the motor go make power with that turbo.

Please don't say a 14b or some little piece of Absolute Rubbish!!! (clarkson voice from top gear)

as for other suggestions I have none till you answer some more questions.

1) How much power are you trying to make?
2) What are you using your car for?
3) What turbo are you going to be using?
4) What engine management are you getting?
5) Is this a stroker or 2.0L build (I assume 2 litre)

 

[RipperXX]

Water pump has low miles on it, and timing componets were replaced about 5,000 miles ago. pullies belts and all. Been thinking about the oil pump, figured I would decided on that when I take the font case off.

Um... ok here goes...

As for the valves I'd look into some that are Nitride coated (hardened) and call it a day. Not sure why you'd want sodium filled valves anyway?

Because they weigh less and have a much higher tolerance for heat.

A1 studs are great (not for the price) and are only worth the money if your making close to 1000 hp. ARP's hold just fine with the right head gasket. Speaking of head gaskets, make sure you get the MLS mitsu one, not that composite one. I'd add bronze valve guides to your list as well.

I was told different, MLS is old tech and does not seal the coolant passages that well unless you have a perfect surface. In a long thread over at DSMTalk, most agreed either o-ringing the block or going with A1's and oem composite was the best as one guy had been runing 42psi of boost for a while on that combo. And after having a blown HG (why I am rebuilding) I really do NOT want to ever mess with the HG again.

Cam choice is more based apon what turbo your going to use and how high you have to rev the motor go make power with that turbo.

MHI Evo III, and I am shooting for 380whp on pump 93. Read my mod list to see what I already have. I am thinking 264/264 or 264/272 with water injection.

Please don't say a 14b or some little piece of Absolute Rubbish!!! (clarkson voice from top gear)

as for other suggestions I have none till you answer some more questions.

1) How much power are you trying to make? 380whp
2) What are you using your car for? Daily/weekend canyon carving/autoX
3) What turbo are you going to be using? Evo III 16g
4) What engine management are you getting? Not getting anything I have DSMLink.
5) Is this a stroker or 2.0L build (I assume 2 litre)[/QUOTE] 2.0

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Ok sorry about the valve thing. I didn't know the sodium filled ones where better at handling heat then nitride coated s/s.

I wasn't saying that A1's aren't good, I'm just saying that for 400hp A1's are over priced. I have a Mitsu MLS with ARP's and copper spray on it. 603 awhp later it's working good. I don't want to lead you to think u can't use the A1's, I'm just saying that it's not worth the money over the ARP's.

Now that I see what turbo your using and your intended use of the car I would recommend the 264/272 combo. DSMLink is a great tuning tool. The only other advice I can say to you is just tune the car for off boost power if your going to use it for autocrossing. Hope this helps

 

[Mr Peepers]

Because they weigh less and have a much higher tolerance for heat.

Sodium filled valves transfer/dissipate heat much better than a standard valve. The valve transfers more heat the the valve seat and guide, keeping the valve at a cooler temperature(can be a hot spot and cause detonation or preignition). IIRC liquid sodium is one of the few things that transfers heat better than water.

 

[outkastracing]

make sure you replace all the timing components! im building my engine right now and all the posts and research thats the number one thing just replace everything in the timing stuff!

 

[90laserRSfwd]

^^^ he's right ^^^

 

[T9S1i]

you dont need to order arp rod bolts, the skat rods already come with em.

Get a mitsu MLS head gasket. The new arp's should be enough for head studs.

Im using oem vitton rubber valve seals and have had no problems with em, i also know a few locals who have run em up to 600hp and 9000 rpm with no problem.

I would get a nice lighter-than-stock flywheel to match the nice new lightened rotating assembly.

I run the DKS 264/272 combo on my small 16g, they work great i would reccommend them to ya for anything up to a 50trim.

Defineatly get a new oil pump and eliminate your balance shafts.

Who is doing the machining/building? are they reputable?

 

[crazy_skier]

for 380 awhp on pump I would look into 272's. With my current set up on pump gas I am only pushing 360 awhp and that I with a bb 60 trim ~ and 2.4, smim, 272's, and all supporting mods. It is do able though, but more airflow = more power

 

[RipperXX]

Wow I guess no one reads profiles anymore, I already have a XACT 11.9 (12lb) flywheel on it. And I replaced all of the timing componets 5,000 miles ago, pullies and all.

Thanks for letting me know that the scat rods come with ARP bolts though. I didn't know that. But for those who keep saying Mitsu MLS head gaskit. I am not sure there is a shop around me I trust to deck the head/block and seeing as the head is likely warped and why it blew the HG in the first place from over heating unless it is real bad I am just going to go with composet HG and A1 studs @ factory torque spec.

T9S1i, how wide is your powerband? As in when do you spool and where does the power start to drop off.

 

[T9S1i]

starts to spool in the 2500rpm range, full spool early 3000rpm range, i shift at 7k, but it feels like it pulls past that, however my knowledge and research tells me im probably not making much usable power past 7k. Ive never dyno'd the car so im not sure where my turbo starts to loose steam, but i know with a larger turbo setup my motor/cams will make nice power probably up to 8k.
Regarding the cams, i just did a detailed post in this forum in a different thread regarding my experiences with the DKS cams.


About the machining, you defineatly want to get the head and block decked and surfaced proper, especially if you warped the head, you dont know how bad of condition its in. I would do some research in your area for a good machinist.

 

[RipperXX]

Thanks for the info T9S1i