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Dry cranking Oil Pressure?

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way2slowtalon

15+ Year Contributor
147
0
Oct 24, 2004
Newington, Connecticut
6 bolt in a 1997 GsX

This is turning into a rebuild from hell! 3rd oil pump (Mitsu not Proline) , blew out my head due to lack of oil pressure.

My question is, with a mechanical oil pressure gauge connected; what should the normal psi be with spark and fuel disconnected? I am getting a 0 reading and refuse to start it normally and blow out another head or bottom head. I have tried priming this new pump with Vasoline in the cavity, also drilling the oil sprocket with a drill. If there is another way I can test for oil pressure before officially string it, please let me know.
 
***Update***

I have tried priming this pump with the way listed above along with the other ways listed. I still have 0 psi before starting. Fuel and spark are disconnected for this test.


skip to 30 seconds
YouTube - 2g GsX No oil pressure
 
I like to prime the engine by spinning the oil pump sproket with a drill. To verify that oil is circulating, just remove the oil fill cap and look for oil to squirt out of the lifters. Keep priming until you don't see/hear air bubbles coming out.
 
I find that the starter will not spin the engine fast enough to show oil pressure on the gauge prime it and turn it on there is nothing you can do about that. Priming it just fills the galleys with oil it does and it does not build pressure as if the engine were running. Remember your basic fundamentals the oil system is a controlled leak can you pump that fast with such volume? Na.
 
4 bad oem pumps! How this is possible I have no idea. Guess what solved my mess...... Proline!

Of all the bad horror stories on this board, Proline saved the day. All I had to do was install and spin with a drill. Presto! 10psi with a great flow.

Time to put the legos back together and fire it up finally.
 
This isn't a 350 man. You aren't going to get cranking oil pressure. I would be more concerned with what the oil pressure it during idle and running. And the oiling issue could be clogged ports or improper cleaning during rebuild. Four bad OEM oil pumps? :rolleyes:
 
4 bad oem pumps! How this is possible I have no idea. Guess what solved my mess...... Proline!

Of all the bad horror stories on this board, Proline saved the day. All I had to do was install and spin with a drill. Presto! 10psi with a great flow.

Time to put the legos back together and fire it up finally.

And you spun it with a drill and all of a sudden it's okay ? The drill is spinning faster than your motor cranks.

That thing is more likely to fail.

I've tried them... and I'll never do that again. Here's why your first couple of days may be fine... then

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I'm just wondering did you read where I said your starter will not spin the motor fast enough to build oil pressure that's why you prime it then go for it after the bearings get pressure at most it'll build 4-10 psi during cranking immediately.


This isn't a 350 man. You aren't going to get cranking oil pressure. I would be more concerned with what the oil pressure it during idle and running. And the oiling issue could be clogged ports or improper cleaning during rebuild. Four bad OEM oil pumps? :rolleyes:


I completely agree with you.
 

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Ouch that sucks. I know the starter won't work I tried the drill method as well I just got lazy with videos because all were reading 0psi. Trust me my local dealership took 2 of them back. All sealed and from their New Jersey warehouse.

I still have 1 of the "bad" OEM pumps at the house. $150 its your. Pm me.

Here is the Proline (drill method)
YouTube - Proline pump

I will never knock these pumps again. :)
 
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