What i want to run, but will it work like i want it?

[jawsgst]

Ok i have looked at a lot of the ET slips for racers on this site and tried looking at the mod list for them but some are not correct for sure since it says stock across the board or otherwise not updated. So i am asking for some info for doing things right the first time and make sure im not missing anything. First of all my current list of mods in correct so this is what i plan on running in addition to those and i hope to get in the 11.99-11.50 range hopefully on pump gas. Please tell me if im going about it the right way and if i have a good setup, recommendations are highly encouraged here, but please don't bash.
-----6 bolt swap with 2.3/2.4l stroker kit
probably a level 3.5 head from ffwd with the level 1 or 2 cams, not sure which yet.
redline of 8.5k, which im not entirely sure how to do yet (please comment how you are running it if so).
DSMLink
AGP RS60/RS60T turbo
DNP tubular mani/o2 combo with 38mm Tial External WG.
FMIC with piping
850CC injectors
Modified fuel rail from FFWD since it is a nice easy setup
23psi on pump gas
ACT 2600or 2900 cluth
Fidanza lightweight flywheel. Also any suspension i need to beef up or replace after breaking things

Im really tired so that is all i can think of right now, i may be missing a major piece somewhere so if i am pls let me know. Thanks in advance for any positive criticism/feedback.

 

[98eclipseRS]

LOoks like you got a fairly good grip on what you need but here is what I would change or my list from your's.

6bolt 2.3L(gives you a slightly higher redline than with a 2.4, you still won't be able to hit 8.5k though....well safely at least)
#### the 60-1 get a super 50(dre spec) or something like the gt30r
Stay with a cast manifold(i.e: turbonetics less chance of cracking)
With the fmic get a speaco 216 core
act2900
at least 900cc inectors
an afpr since you are running a 255
meth injection
hks 272's for intake/exhaust and get good at driving.

 

[pimpingixxer]

If your tranny is still stock think about how its gonna feel when you take the way it came stock and adding a few hundred horsepower sooner or later your tranny is going to shit the bed. I'd invest in a shepards tranny, and also a 4 spider diff

 

[IllEagl]

Do not get the turbonetics AGP turbo, a lot of problems with them...The manifold is prob not needed, but nice to have. The 2.3 does not give you a higher redline. Many people shift 2.3/2.4's past 8.5. If you are worried get the Long rod 2.4.(Magnus) I have the Long Rod 2.4 and so far its been great.(~380 miles). Other wise your setup looks really nice...


Joe

 

[jawsgst]

As for the tranny it is brand new since the 4th gear shifter fork broke on me a few months ago and it is all i could afford. I know the tranny will eventually fall apart but i will just run it till it does since i have no other transportation right now. I know the stroker kit won't make me redline higher but i want the stroker for the extra bottom end and to spool the turbo sooner. I have read a bit on the turbos and haven't heard too many complaints with them and if i go with the turbonetics one at least they have a 1 year no questions asked warrentee which seems nice. I want the manifold cause it mates to the tubular 02 with the spot for the external wastegate so i don't have to get a dump tube for it or find some other re route 02. With the redline i just hope the bottom end will hold it and the head i want to get should hold 9k since i will use the 9k titanium valve springs i believe is what they are. The 2.3 stroker kit im looking at is only $1300 so that is why i was thinking 2.3 not 2.4. Thanks for the feedback so far!

 

[GVR4592]

Forget revving the 2.3/2.4 unless it's a long rod engine. The pistons speeds are just to high to reliably rev that high.

 

[98eclipseRS]

Forget revving the 2.3/2.4 unless it's a long rod engine. The pistons speeds are just to high to reliably rev that high.

exactly you can take your 2.3/2.5 to 8.5k but don't come complain when it throws a rod out the side of the block. And building a long rod 2.3 costs quite the shinney penny. It would be way easier to throw a 6bolt 2.4 crank into an already built 2L and clearance the block slightly and have fun.

 

[jawsgst]

Ok so i want to make sure im getting everything and get all the facts before i go building this thing. 8.5k is too high rpms unless i use long rods. Got that so just shoot for the stock 7.4-7.5k rpm. But what do you mean by throwing a 2.4l crank in a build 2l motor. What is that going to do that the 2.3l stroker kit won't exactly. The 2.3 stroker is a 2.4l crank in a 2l motor just with bigger bore pistons and different rods correct. I just want more info on what you are saying RS. Please elaborate a bit more

 

[lazylaser]

The 2.3 stroker is a 2.4l crank in a 2l motor just with bigger bore pistons and different rods correct. I just want more info on what you are saying RS. Please elaborate a bit more

Its not the bore thats bigger on the piston (although you can get over sized stroker pistons), its the wrist pin that is moved. I think its 9mm higher on the stroker pistons then on a stock 2.0l piston that is why you need a special piston. Also, you can use regular 6 bolt rods I believe any 6 bolt rod will fit the 6 bolt stroker crank.

 

[92tealTSI]

Ok so i want to make sure im getting everything and get all the facts before i go building this thing. 8.5k is too high rpms unless i use long rods. Got that so just shoot for the stock 7.4-7.5k rpm. But what do you mean by throwing a 2.4l crank in a build 2l motor. What is that going to do that the 2.3l stroker kit won't exactly. The 2.3 stroker is a 2.4l crank in a 2l motor just with bigger bore pistons and different rods correct. I just want more info on what you are saying RS. Please elaborate a bit more

A 2.3 Stroker is a 2.0 block with a 2.4 crank. You are going to have to clearance the main caps a bit so the big end of the rod can clear, and grind a little off the intake side of the number 3 cylinder for clearance. I am running the carshopinc stroker kit with no problems whatsoever. I just tore it down with 3k on it just to check how everything was wearing, and everything is perfect. If youve never built an engine before this is a good time to learn, just make sure you have lots of space and if you don't know what you are doing, get help from somebody who does. Good luck

 

[98eclipseRS]

92tealtsi pretty much summed it up. Building a 2.3L is much easier than most people think. Just but whatever parts you would buy for a normal 2L build up and throw it all on a 2.4 crank and voila you have a 2.3L that can handle quite a bit of abuse.

 

[98eclipseRS]

oh and I suggest you start looking for a 6bolt 2.4L crank NOW since the stroker has become so popular many many people are doing this and its hard to get your hands on a 2.4L crank.

 

[Batty200]

92tealtsi pretty much summed it up. Building a 2.3L is much easier than most people think. Just but whatever parts you would buy for a normal 2L build up and throw it all on a 2.4 crank and voila you have a 2.3L that can handle quite a bit of abuse.

You need stroker specific pistons so dont go advising people to just "throw a 2.4 crank in your 2l" as that will have thier pistons smashing into thier heads.


Later

 

[jawsgst]

This will be my first engine build and have plenty of time to get it right unless the 7 bolt in my car now takes a crap on me in which case i would have to hurry. Right now i am working on securing the car that i am getting the entire 6 bolt motor from. There is a really good machine shop just about 10 miles from my house so i will be working with them i am sure and i know for sure i am using them to do any machining necessary for the job and probably the assembly of the bottom end. I am going to try to put as much of this together myself as i can. Please keep the comments coming if there are more, just want to get it done right the first time Thanks for all the input so far. The stroker kit i plan on going with the the one from Forceinduction racing incase i didn't say that yet unless they are out of stock.

 

[waiting2bl33d]

sorry if i missed it but i didn't notice GM Maf sensor and Translator also a logging system ie datalogger and either s-afcII or DSMLINK i just got DSMLink instaleld and i couldn't be happier with the product

 

[RACER-X]

Also if the only reason for getting the stroker was your theory that you would be able to rev higher which now you know is wrong. You can rev a 7 bolt or 6 bolt to what ever rpm by buying a EPROM ECU from Keydiver. He can change almost anything on your EPEOM: fuel cut, rev, stutter box, shift point, compensante for mass, and inj size, ect...if can get your hands on a 95 he can do it. Get full arp bolts studs, cometic gaskets and that will help strengthen you engine a bunch.

 

[CodeMonkey]

Everyone talks about going from stock to 11sec in one big jump but it almost never works that way. Keep your old engine until you break it, put things on in the same order as the tuning guide.

It won't cost as much up front and you can learn what change each new part makes.

Oh, also don't waste a bunch of money on a ported head. It's not needed to run 11s; there are a lot of better things to do with the money. You will want cams (HKS 272s or FPs) and a good intake manifold would be nice (magnus, etc...)

 

[jawsgst]

I do plan on running DSMLink i just didn't post that because that is not in the engine build. I am trying to talk about my engine build mostly and why does everyone keep asking about me building a stroker for the RPM. I am building the stroker as i said before for the low end power and for spooling the turbo quicker. I was just hoping to have a high reving motor so i could spool the turbo sooner and hold the boost longer. I was just hoping that it would be possible to rev the stroker that high but as i have found out that is not the case. Im not really trying to go to 11s in one big jump either but i found a good deal on a car with a 6 bolt and i am taking the motor and my friend wants the chassis so i figured i could keep what i have now and drive it and build the other so that i can swap when done and have as little downtime as possible. This is my daily driver and i don't have another car so it is hard for me to take the time down to add more things. This is already long enough or i would explain why i don't want to take the exact path of the upgrades. But if you want to know why im doing it this way and not by upgrading like it says just send me a PM or i can write it up and post it on here. Thanks and keep em coming!

 

[jawsgst]

OK well time to get started on this project that i talked about. I finally found me a 6 bolt block and am in the process of tearing it down. I don't plan on doing this fast, maybe 6-12 before i am ready to actually do the swap. I just wanted to put the fresh information in this thread and see if i can get people talking again. This is my first motor build and i don't want to mess anything up. As for the Tranny everyone kept dissing originally, I will keep the stocker until it breaks then buy a shep tranny or send this one to him for rebuilding. I want to build an awesome motor with 11-12s ETs as i said before. To some that may be mild but to me that is a wild 4 cylinder. I still want to go 2.3L unless I get enough information otherwise to just do a 2.0 build. Thanks in advance! Also if someone could give me Bolt info for putting our motors on the engine stands that would be great. I didnt' get a transmission with this motor so i don't know the bolt type to look for. I bought some but the were too fine thread.

 

[JiveMasterT]

OK well time to get started on this project that i talked about. I finally found me a 6 bolt block and am in the process of tearing it down. I don't plan on doing this fast, maybe 6-12 before i am ready to actually do the swap. I just wanted to put the fresh information in this thread and see if i can get people talking again. This is my first motor build and i don't want to mess anything up. As for the Tranny everyone kept dissing originally, I will keep the stocker until it breaks then buy a shep tranny or send this one to him for rebuilding. I want to build an awesome motor with 11-12s ETs as i said before. To some that may be mild but to me that is a wild 4 cylinder. I still want to go 2.3L unless I get enough information otherwise to just do a 2.0 build. Thanks in advance! Also if someone could give me Bolt info for putting our motors on the engine stands that would be great. I didnt' get a transmission with this motor so i don't know the bolt type to look for. I bought some but the were too fine thread.

the stock tranny is fine. you will need a new clutch though... not sure if you have a new one or not yet. you might want to look at one of the sbr clutches... i have one and it's great. make sure you get a nice OEM tob though.

 

[jawsgst]

Yeah i figure i am going to go with an ACT2600 or 2900.