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full out race trailer car

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crankbender

20+ Year Contributor
1,840
11
Apr 15, 2002
houston, Texas
What would yall change/add to this list.

Full race trailer DSM

Engine (anybody with real proof the 2.4 is worth it)
Crower or Eagle rods
Ross or Wiseco pistons (.040 over)
Bearing kit
Stock crank
Electric water pump
Ems
Cams (crower probably)
Gasket kit
Balance shaft removal
1mm oversized swirl polished necked valves
roller lifters
double springs
titanium valve spring retainers
adjustable cam gears
lightened flywheel
tubing vacuum header (only a single vacuum line to the intake)

Intake
Plenum manifold
Matched TB (depending on how much change is allowed with computer)
Custom ic to tb piping
Custom straight flow tubular air/liquid intercooler (intake temp goal is 50F in 80 degree weather)
Custom turbo to IC piping
Map sensor controlled so no mas
Stagnation pressure sensor? (does the ems need this)

Exhaust
Tubular or custom exhaust mani
Custom exhaust back (nothing but the required pipe to not get thrown out on noise)

Fuel
900 cc series injectors
in line pump
full ss tubing system
custom fuel rail
 
LOL dude that is a given...just didn't want to get into the turbo debate with the car.....

suffice it to say the 3052 would be smaller than anything considered for this.....it could reach 30 psi.

Forgot shooting for just under 8:1 CR
 
This type of thread is ###.

Way to add to the discussion. Please keep your snide comments to yourself they have no place in these forums. If you really think that wouldn't it be easier to just not respond?
 
Originally posted by crankbender
Way to add to the discussion. Please keep your snide comments to yourself they have no place in these forums. If you really think that wouldn't it be easier to just not respond?

Well first off lets be real, how many people on here are actually qualified to comment on a list about parts for a full race trailered car? Very few people are but I'm sure you'll get a lot of responses.

Generally a person with the ability and or financial means to build a full race trailered car doesn't need to ask a discussion forum for parts advice.
 
I'm liking the list, however I don't understand why you say trailor car? Even IF that were to be a 9-10 second car why couldn't you drive it on the street? It's awd and won't break traction unless you have the boost cranked up and you are flooring it everywhere. If you just drive it normal whats the big deal? No need to make it a "trailor car".

I'd assume the 2.4 would be worth it. I considered this route myself, but I ended up just doing a 7 bolt 2g buildup. I am using ross pistons and eagle rods and have it bored only .020 over ( why go more? ) I would recommemend the MLS headgasket and definitly some ARP studs. Maybe have it O-ringed if you will be boosting 30+? I am using arp studs and mls headgasket and planning for a max bost on race gas at about 27 - 28 psi. My compression is a tad over 8.5:1. Add a STRONG clutch to your list too. Maybe some arp main studs although most likely not necessary.
 
Well first off lets be real, how many people on here are actually qualified to comment on a list about parts for a full race trailered car? Very few people are but I'm sure you'll get a lot of responses.

Good this post was started to do just that. I am not asking anybody for advice just what people thought of that list. With that said who cares if they are qualified. ever heard of discussion? And if you opened your ears for a minute you might find that some inexperienced people have good ideas at times and can get the juices flowing.

Generally a person with the ability and or financial means to build a full race trailered car doesn't need to ask a discussion forum for parts advice.

Once again why are you insisting anybody is asking for advice? And whoever said that people had to actually build their dream setup?

I asked this to find out what people thought and would like for THEIR cars. I threw some stuff together off the top of my head that would make a decent start.

Why do you insist on people not posting what they would like. Hey maybe some of us here that do know what they are doing can correct some poor choices people make. Also maybe somebody will learn something. If you don't want to be a part of the discussion then stay away. You are like some guy wandering around in the damn food court telling people they are having stupid conversations....get a life.
 
other stuff -
big radiator
dual SPAL fans
maybe a direct port nitrous system on a window switch
knife edge and balance the crank
what kinda tranny? (big issue there, when going for big power)
sheet metal intake mani.
get rid of the gas tank and get a fuel cell
battery to the trunk area

but as sugested before, you could dirve a car with the above and aforementioned mods on the street too....:thumb:
 
On a good set-up (ported head-big cams-smim) the 3052 will be maxed out in the mid-upper 20 psi. Go with something a little bigger. A 60-1 or a 56 trim gt 40. I would lean towards the 56 trim as it provideds a little extra room for more boost if you want more power.
 
Originally posted by crankbender
Once again why are you insisting anybody is asking for advice? And whoever said that people had to actually build their dream setup?

Hangout, here we come.

And what does it take to build a race car?

7.
 
On a good set-up (ported head-big cams-smim) the 3052 will be maxed out in the mid-upper 20 psi. Go with something a little bigger. A 60-1 or a 56 trim gt 40. I would lean towards the 56 trim as it provideds a little extra room for more boost if you want more power.

I didn't want it to turn into a turbo debate but personally i think the 3052 is also way too small for a full drag car. I agree with ya that is why i said it would be small.

And what does it take to build a race car?

The short answer. Alot of time and money. A tech team ... many heads and hands are better than 1/2. having access to and the skill to use a cnc, pipebender, welder, plasma cutter, etc is also very helpfull.

.
but as sugested before, you could dirve a car with the above and aforementioned mods on the street too....

a trailer is gonna be very usefull also as you are bound to break stuff.

what kinda tranny? (big issue there, when going for big power)

personally i would use a stocker to do the rough and low torque tuning. Then i would go with a dogbox probbably.
 
I'm not 100% sure but don't our cars already have roller rockers? I would also only go .20 over it leaves a little room if you ever have to ,heaven forbid, go through the block agian.
 
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