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Old 01-21-2008, 12:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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2G-specific Replacing Those Ugly Worn Out 2G Door Trims/Drip Moulding

Ok, so you just got your car detailed or in my case a brand new paint job but one thing sticks out like a sore thumb. Yep, it's those worn out door trims or in proper terms "Drip Mouldings". These things are an eyesore when worn out and stripped showing the metal underneath. I searched the forums and the one "How To" that I found was not really detailed and in my opinion was still confusing after reading it so I decided to do something a little more in depth.

Tools Required:

Philips Screwdriver
Putty Knife
Towel
Degreaser/Cleaner (Not needed really)

Parts Required:

New Drip Mouldings

Drip Moulding RH Part # MB881974 $35.08 (Can be found cheaper)





Drip Moulding LH Part # MB881973 $35.08 (Can be found cheaper)





The parts are mostly special order as most dealers don't stock these and should take a couple days to show up at the dealership when ordered. I personally think these parts should be recalled and replaced for free due to this being a common problem on most 2G's. j/k

How they came...


Ok, on to the eyesore.







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Old 01-21-2008, 12:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Remove the inner door insulation as shown in the pic. I used the putty knife and pulled it down towards the ground. The only part of the insulation that needs to be removed is pretty much what’s parallel to the old moulding.





Notice the section of door insulation that was removed.



Now once the insulation is out of the way you’ll notice 10 Philips head screws that will need to be removed.







Now remove all 10 screws.







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Old 01-21-2008, 12:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Now, when all 10 screws are removed you’ll see that there is a metal piece that sits on top of the actual moulding that you’re trying to remove. DO NOT remove that one.



The old moulding actually slides out from where it’s installed. You slide it downwards towards the front of the car (fender area). It might be a little hard at first depending on how bad it’s stuck in there but it’ll come loose.

Place a towel in the area shown in the pic to prevent any scratches to your paint.



Now pull down the moulding towards the area of the towel and slide it out completely.
Pics for reference…









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Old 01-21-2008, 12:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Here is what the area looks like with the moulding removed. Notice that the other metal trim is still there and you can see the screw holes also. You can use your cleaner (I used Simple Green) to get out all the 9-13 YEAR OLD dirt and grime out before installing the new mouldings.









Now it’s installation time. I have a few comparison pics of the old and new mouldings.







Now installation is basically the opposite of removal so this should be pretty straight-forward. Slide the new moulding back in the area where the old one was removed from. Make sure the little black clip in the pic below is resting on the lip area.





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Old 01-21-2008, 12:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Continue to slide the moulding into position





Once the new moulding is in position, make sure to re-install the other metal trim on top of the new moulding and make sure all holes are lined up. Install the screws loosely at first and then check the positioning of everything before tightening them down.







Reinstall the door insulation and kick back and look at how much better your car looks









After I was finished I noticed that there were areas of the new moulding that needed to be “un-pinched” so I used the putty knife and took care of that too. Make sure to be careful and not scratch your paint.



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