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How to install a afpr on the 96+ 420a Eclipse

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This is an install of the Aeromotive 13909 Afpr on my 2g 420a Eclipse. The reason I am doing this install is to run megasquirt you need a 1:1 afpr. This fpr is used by many people and I have not heard a bad review yet. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.
Tools:
assorted wrenchs
schraded valve tool
screwdrivers

Parts:
Aeromotive afpr 13909
15 feet #6 braided fuel line
3 feet 3/8 fuel line
2 feet 1/4 fuel hose.
2 feet of 3/16 vacuum line.
3/8 fuel filter
#6 hose ends
3/8 to 1/4 hose barb reducer.
4an-6an hydrolic hose(had made at napa)
12 fuel hose clamps
4 Jack stands and a jack.
Lets begin
1. Take out bottom part of back seat.(if you dont know how to do this you might want to stop this install before you hurt yourself)
2. Take the 4 screws out of the plate to access the fuel pump.
3. Unplug the fuel pump and open up the gas tank.
4. Start the car and let it idle untill it stalls. Disconnect battery.
5. You will need to get access to underneath the car so use jackstands or if you have access to a lift that would be ideal. I used 4 jack stands and had the car completly off the ground.
6. This gets alittle messy. Disconnect both lines connected to the fuel pump housing. Start with the return line(the one clamped on). Then using some wrenches 18mm and 15mm(i think) unhook the feed line. You will spill some fuel so have a towel ready.
7. Go under the car and disconnect the other feed line comming from the stock fuel filter/fpr housing. Now the only thing holding the filter housing to the car is 2, 12mm bolts Take them out and drop the whole filter/fpr housing out.(take a look at it and say good bye) It should look like this:
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8. At first look the threads on the stock feed line look like 1/4 inch npt. They are not, so slide the fittings back on the lines. Get your 3/8 fuel line and filter ready. I wont go into to much detail here but the object is to have the line run from the output on the pump housing to the feed line under the car with the filter inline. Put the clamps in where they need to b and clamp it down. I like to use two clamps where I can this is up to you.
Here are some pics of my install.(you will get to the return line later)
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9. Mount the fpr where you want it in the firewall.
10. Time to run the return line now. The hard part here is to get the line to go from under the car into the engine bay without getting in the way of moving parts. Heres what to do. Go under the car and track the stock lines. See where they disapear?(inline with the front tires) Thats where you need to start running your line. Take the braided line with out a fitting on the end and push it into the crack that the stock lines go into. Start feeding the line through. It's tuff but it will go through. When you have fed enough through that you can grab it from inside the engine bay grab it and pull it to where you want to mount the afpr.( I mounted mine where the cc box would have been.) Install your -6an hose end. Zip tie the rest of the braided fuel line to the stock lines all the way back to the tank. Leave some room you will have to reduce the line.
11. This was my first time dealing with braided line and cutting it was hard. The best way I found was to wrap tape around where you want to cut. Then I used a dremal with cutting tool to hack through the tape and line. Be careful sparks fly and it smells bad when you cut through the rubber. Do this to the braided line in about the same spot as the stock feed line starts under the car. Blow out the line to get all the stuff out of there. Take your 3/8 to 1/4 barb reducer and put the 3/8 end in the braided line.(wow it fits) Clamp that end and grab your 1/4 fuel hose. One end goes on the barb and gets clamped the other goes to the return on the fuel pump housing. Wow almost done.
12. Take the cap off the test port on the fuel rail. Use your schrader tool and take the valve out. This part you can do anumber of ways. I had Napa make me a hydrolic hose with a straight -4an fitting and a 90 degree -6an. It is about 12inches long and works great.(cost about 6 bucks.) You could also use braided line with the right fittings too. It was more cost effective to use the Napa hose for me. Connect the -4an on the rail and the -6an to the afpr. Connect the -6an return line. I have a electric fuel pressure gauge so i installed it into the gauge port of the afpr. You can use a under-the-hood gauge too. Heres my afpr.
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13. Connect your battery and fuel pump. Get ready to look for leaks . Your idle fp depends on what size injectors you have. The bigger injectors = less fp. The more the set screw on top or the afpr is tightened the more fp you will have. So make a ruff guess and set the screw.
14. This is the moment of truth. Start the car and check fp and for leaks. If you have idle problems you need to adjust fp. Check all your connections and lines for leaks. If no leaks And you are at your static fp then connect your vacuum line and you are done. If there are leaks you might want to tighten the clamps or use two.

I hope this helps you guys with the 420a's upgrade your fuel system. This will work with the sfmu with a few little changes.
 
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