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Why the Turbo ECU?

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supergoat

20+ Year Contributor
1,035
2
Jul 29, 2002
I keep reading that the Turbo ECU is recommended when turboing a NT engine. I was under the impression that the NT ecu is very good at handling fuel curves and should be up to the task. Granted the turbo ecu is built with boost in mind, but I know plenty of guys that have turbo'd other cars(non-dsm) with a stock "NT" ecu with no problems.

So why could a NT ecu not be used? When I turbo my NT on the 27th I plan on keeping the NT ecu and only swapping over the injectors and fuel pump. The ecu should handle it just fine. Is it because the NT ecu can not read a knock sensor?
 
The main job (n/t to turbo conversion) of the Turbo ECU is to retard the timing when detonation is detected through the knock sensor. This helps to ensure no damage is done to the pistons ring shelf as it brings the counts of knock down.

The turbo ECU also has three extra pins which controls certain parts, but many products can just by-pass these parts.

1) Turbo Meter (#3 pin) - Solution: get a boost guage.
2) Knock Sensor (#9 pin) - Solution: low boost at all times. Below 5psi for saftey.
3) Fuel Pressure Control Valve (pin #57) - Solution: not sure. Just get a turbo fuel pressure regulator for your fuel pressure rises with your boost pressure.
4) Wastegate Selnoid Valve (pin #105) Solution: Boost controller.

That's it. Good luck.
 
Would it be possible to plug in the turbo ecu just to control the 450s without using the turbo MAF?

I have a turbo MAF, but it's not in the best shape. Could I run the car using all NT components(plus turbo of course) and the turbo ECU to better controll the 450's until I get another turbo MAS and wire it up?
 
the turbo mass air sensor has a 7th wire running from it that the nt 4g63 mas doesn't have. offhand i can't remember exactly what it is used for, but it might just be a tad important. also if you do use the turbo ecu and don't hook up the knock sensor the car will read a constant 7 counts of knock everytime you touch the throttle as a failsafe mode.

the fuel pressure valve you speak of is just the fuel pressure solenoid which isn't really needed.

also some cars i know of will throw a check engine light if the wastegate solenoid valve isn't hooked up, mine's still attached, but just laying there.
 
Originally posted by mavisky
also some cars i know of will throw a check engine light if the wastegate solenoid valve isn't hooked up, mine's still attached, but just laying there.

Is it electrically attached just not hooked up to anything? In other words, do you have just a direct line from the compressor outlet to the wastegate?

I was thinking of running it that way in hopes of trying to keep my boost level somewhat low for now.
 
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