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ITM Brand 3rd Gen Revised Lifters. Anyone use them?

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DSMReviver

15+ Year Contributor
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Mar 4, 2008
Little Rock, Arkansas
I just bought me sets of ITM brand revised 3rd Gen 3mm lifters for $5 buck each form Parts dinosaurs 4G63T Mitsubishi Lash Adjusters. I haven't acutally install in the motor yet but wanted to find out if anybody here had a good results with them? I notice they are kind of alittle bit tall compare to topline revised lifters. could it case a problem being alittle bit tall. ITM said they need to be bleed the oil out before you use them and once it is install in the motor they said the oil in the motor will properley adjust it self in the lifters. Is that true? Please help....
 
I use the same ITM "3G" revised lash adjusters (aka lifters). Also directly from PartsDinosaur. Works great for me. Many, many others have also used them with positive results. Read through the thread below for more info about the lubricant in the lash adjusters when you take them out of the box.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...g-bout-new-lifters-parts-compatibility-q.html


I have altered my opinions since then in regards to installing the "lifters". Just bleed them out before the install. If you wish, you can pull out the 20A fuse (aka the "Engine" fuse) in the fuse box to prime the lash adjusters. After the fuse is pulled out, crank the car a few times. Reinstall the fuse and start her up. She will still probably chatter for about 30 seconds or so, but that's nothing to worry about. If this was a full blown race engine, I may install them differently. But for most of us, this method will be just fine.
 
I've found ITM's parts to be of good quality. I've used their timing components on a few cars, and even though the belts were labeled a little on the generic side they still were quite durable and provided good service.

The idler and tensioner pulleys in the ITM timing kits were the same brand (NTN) as the OEM pulleys they replaced at a fraction of the cost. This leads me to believe ITM builds or distributes alot of products to automakers under their own private label.
 
As I have posted in other threads, if you follow the 3/S (6G72) instructions and use clean diesel fuel to prime them you don't have to drain them out like you do with motor oil before installing. They will bleed down under the pressure of the valve springs during install and them quickly fill with oil when you get pressure to the head. The diesel fuel just makes sure that they are lubed and that there isn't any air bubbles inside on startup.

If you use motor oil you must drain them before install or you run the risk of valve damage.
 
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