Yes I know this pissed everyone off going through all of this but put yourself in my shoes,how the hell am supposed to sleep at night now knowing I am driving a ticking timebomb?:cry:

Consider this : in a stroked motor the piston moves farther in 1 RPM. So yes velocity is increased on the piston.Your other coment about radial vs axial has me thinking though that my concern would not apply unless the vibration were in fact being transmitted axially,and I believe you...

I am trying to stay on topic here so let me explain my balance concerns first but quickly say my use of moment is radial i.e. the center of crank rotation. Transmission length meaning length from coc to outside radius of clutch or TC. OK back to vibration,as an example if the vibration at COC...

The moment is multiplied by the distance from center so the transmission length is what add's the increased chatter to the bearing face. As for other I4 designs having more or less vibration and all things being equal,Stroke plays the biggest role, more stroke more velocity snapping the slugs...

My reasoning goes something like this: Increased vibration makes for increased wear on the bearings. As stated and I agreed the removal of the BS does not affect the rotating internals. What is increased however is everything else attached to the motor,So when you push in the clutch more...

I am not even going to respond to your abusive BS. Knock it off.

You Should take your own advice pal.A. I check my own plugs every 10k or every other OC B.He is not running stock C.Colder plugs are needed if hes melting the electrodes D.Running smaller gap can foul plugs and can result in lousy fuel mileage and faster wear. E.50k is hardly RIDICULOUS...

I find it unlikely he is using a manual boost controller for no reason;)

I just knew it was another premadonna with her feathers ruffled by my opinion in another thread come to stalk me, I'm sooo glad you admitted it princess!ROFL Now that The BS artists have left the stage maybe we can do some actual work on your problem For starters you are running the wrong...

Well some of us expect a lot more than 30k from a set of plugs. Calan seems to have all the answers being some kind of DSM psycic able to diagnose your problems without ever even back tracing the faults so if he says its a duck then ducksauce it is.:rolleyes:

Oh I see what you are getting at. The test shows nothing of the phase of course,you will need an oscilloscope to see the actual wave form. But that is after you rule out a simple short. What I am saying is the throughput of the phase is affected by resistance. Are you saying It Does not?

The plugs are telling you How you think a short will have NO effect on phase is a better question. .

Maybe I should be a bit more specific,my advice is for a daily driver not a race build. You are correct that the BS has no effect on internal crank vibration. You however are wrong about anything bolted to the motor being affected by its removal.Vibration will certainly increase leading to the...

Obviously if there are differences in resistance in ANY path there is some breakdown weather it be in the coil windings OR the wires or even the plugs themselves.Different resistance WILL cause shift resulting in different wear characteristics. Weather the circuit is grounded forward or...

Good advice. However the extra rotational mass is what the balance shaft is for and is needed to smooth out the vibration. The problem is getting oil to the bearings spinning at twice the speed and going up quadratically proportional to RPM. I would drill the rear bearing for an oil pass if...

The balance shaft runs at twice the speed of the crank to save the engine from harmonic vibration. It is there for a reason and you can afford the 10 hp it cost to run it,unless of course you LIKE crankwalk and stuff like bell housing cracking and other metal fatigue.

Don't guess and don't take chances by listening to any couch tuner, pull the plugs and look.

Measure the old ones and find a paiir the same length.

Just coincidence? no you just aggravated it by slamming it into the pavement.

You said it was missing the honeycomb,meaning you are using the wrong one. Either it was modded or just is not the factory unit. Replace with the correct one and do an ohms test on the wires for shorts.

intake leak, test it with starting fluid by spraying around intake with the TB routed outside the engine bay. If it idles up when sprayed then you have a leak in your new manifold.

Coil resistance seems likely . Either the coil itself or wires, check and compare the ohms on all 4 paths for any phase shift.

Obviously lifters and its a good thing you caught it early before valve damage followed

The mount looks like it supposed to.

This is an old problem I have been through many times. The ecm uses the bolt for its grounding,When you use a pressure washer like at the car wash a film of grease bonds around the bolt and shorts out the ecu. The fix is to remove the ecu take a piece of sandpaper and scuff the paint away...

Your truck is worth more, don't be a fool.

Permatex antisieze thread compound should be standard practice on head bolts.

Check all the wiring back to fuse

I like it!

Getting and finding parts. Since they redesigned so much.

The shift kit came and just looks like a few springs,can someone give advice on installing them? Being unable to post questions in the active areas really sucks.:cry:Any advice on changing the TC out? Special notes warnings or things to look for ect..????

I just bought a TC on ebay from someone in maryville,was it You??I just bought a TC on ebay from someone in marysville,was it You??

I am glad to see someone has done the hard work , I am thinking of doing it also. I had an mx3 I was considering but it was an auto. I have a 95 stick with an unknown motor and if it is bad I may go this route. How much batteries cost when gas is 4 bucks a gallon seems trivial to me. SLA's will...

I have decided to try and fix the auto. I think the TC is bad,does anyone know if the TC solenoid going bad would act the same as a bad TC? Car is sluggish to move even in reverse. I am going to put the 95 back together and see how it runs.

Well I swapped out the old TCU and theres no difference. I bought a valve body shift kit and found a TC so I guess I will have to pull the dam motor and transmission !!!!!

I just bought one so I dont need one,it should be here in a few days. However I was wrong about it running exactly the same as with it out of the car. I notice that it actually wants to stay in 3rd and then drops to 2nd randomly. When I had it in it wants to stay in 2nd and randomly shifts to...

Yes that is how I calculated the maximum diameter by assuming the exhaust would be the smallest constriction in air flow.This is not always the restriction however as the intake itself may be the bottleneck. As for the flow into the horn you need to understand how to tailor the shape of the...

Well a glowing exhaust means more fuel is getting burned not that it is necessarily running any leaner. Check your plugs for their color, you want a nice medium brown. It has been a few decades since I tuned but not much has actually changed Air fuel mixture is adjusted by a computer instead of...

Ok I removed the tcu and it looks fine. Something I did not like however is the fact that it is not waterproofed in any fashion. It is just a bare pcb in a metal shell mounted below the windshield on the firewall seems ridiculous especially in a convertible! I pulled the end clutch and looked at...

I want to make and reproduce my own raised lettering. Small details the factories never do hold up. The letters wear off or are never painted at all if they are raised at all. If I can get the DSM fonts I can detail all my switches and gauges with unique yet tasteful finish. I could also make...

Any update on this? I have a similar issue.:banghead:I see you gave up and are now selling the car:banghead:Telling the potential buyer that it is a blown solenoid seal without actually confirming that is the problem is very sketchy buddy:nono:

I read in another thread that there is an AT fuse that causes this issue in a 1G Is there a fuse for the 2G as well? IF so where is it located? I don't see it in the fuse box under the hood. Do I have to remove the dash to get to the TCU for inspection?

My automatic seems to start in 2nd (no power) shifts once ,sometimes twice but wont hold it and eventually downshifts where it stays until I stop,then starts over. I changed the filter and fluid and found no signs of damage there.

I was not aware that an AT had any synchros.Here is an article I found that out lines the swap but it only says up to 98 and I am wondering if mine will work out? 94-98 Mitsu Galant Tranny Swap

OK so the 95 is a 420a MT NT And the 99 spyder is 4g64 SOHC AT NT A friend of mine has a 91 AWD TSI and I have been wanting one ever since I got a ride in it. My wife actually bought the spyder for me without my getting to check it out and it has some transmission problems. So the first thing I...

I have a 1999 spyder Stock and I have picked up a 1995 HT MT What I had in mind was to swap the MT into the spyder. How do I tell the 420a from the 3g63 ? The 1995 is a 2.0 DOHC with A black VC and MT on DSI am also wondering if maybe I should not part the 95 since it is almost complete ...

I find it ironic anyone thinks lime green is "ricer" It is in fact Original Sub-Lime Mopar However I agree it goes on the outside with a black interior and very sparingly trim accented inside.

Adding/reprinting Font specs for each gen/model so I can use my cnc to reproduce worn/faded lettering

Fuel line /AT fluid cutout solenoid to evacuate system without hassles/possibilities of ruining finish.

4500 bucks for 125 HP seems a bit excessive